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Old 01-28-2013, 11:10 PM #1
learningxp
 
 
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quad/x rings vs hand fit orings

I have the hand fit orings on my gt already and they feel great already. But I ordered the quad/x ring set from oringmonkey to try it out. Do you think they'd make much difference compared to the hand fit orings that I might need to replace? Pros/cons?
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:01 AM #2
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I had fantastic results with viton xrings on the bolt keg inner and spacer inner. If you have well broken in or hand fitted orings there now then I wouldn't expect a night and day difference. Just remember that xrings should only be used where the seal never breaks contact. (Don't use on powertube) I also found that it didn't work well on the bolt switch.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:00 AM #3
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I used them on my VX and they worked pretty good, but have not had good luck with them on my GT. I've tried buna 70 and viton 75 x-rings and they are just too finicky for me to keep them in there (random small leaks etc). Don't ask me why they didn't leak in the VX but are on the GT, but I tried multiple sets. The only place I think they are even a decent candidate to be used are in the bolt keg inner / spacer inner (where blueshifty has his).

I just run regular buna o-rings in those 2 spots now, viton on the bolt switch, and poly on the valve / powertube, and I wouldn't change a thing.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:25 AM #4
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bought the same kit Quad rings... it is a x3 fitted quad ring for gt kit

it came with:

017 quad = 6
011 quad = 6
2x12 mm = 3

i tried on the powertube, inner bolt keg and inner spacer setup... MAD FSDO and inconsistancy went back to original setup...

couldnt figure out where to use the 2x12mm that came with the kit... and thats all i have to say about my adventure with them...
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:39 AM #5
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Yeah im not keen on these. When dave at Monkey called me and said he made some GT Xring kits I was very sceptical about it knowing that you can only use them in two positions. But for most part the fitted kits work way better as you can use the entire kit and see a better outcome right away. Where xrings only bring used on inner bolt keg and spacer wont give you any change in pressure readings or have any positive effects.
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:10 PM #6
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Who sells hand fitted oring kits for clones? Just oring monkey?

Thanks
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:13 PM #7
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Lol, the guy right above you.
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:22 PM #8
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Thanks gonna have me a look.
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:39 PM #9
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I am placing my order for fitted rings today.

Sorry to hijack thread. But how can U tell if have an old style/first gen noid???
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:13 AM #10
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The new one has an M on it and IIRC it's white instead of red.
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Old 02-01-2013, 01:08 PM #11
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Yeah here's the two of them. The new style is the bottom one.

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Old 02-02-2013, 07:15 PM #12
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Dang...I have he old noid. Still works fine tho. Are the power tube orings supposed to be tight in the bolt? I noticed a had fsdo when I put the hand fit orings on. So I tried moving the bolt through every part of the engine to check for tight spots and the power tube was definitely tight. I believe that was causing my fsdo, I switch the tip to an xring and it feels looser. The mid pt oring is still a poly/vit still pretty tight tho.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:33 PM #13
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Quote:
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Dang...I have he old noid. Still works fine tho. Are the power tube orings supposed to be tight in the bolt? I noticed a had fsdo when I put the hand fit orings on. So I tried moving the bolt through every part of the engine to check for tight spots and the power tube was definitely tight. I believe that was causing my fsdo, I switch the tip to an xring and it feels looser. The mid pt oring is still a poly/vit still pretty tight tho.
Poly/Viton o-rings are a little more snug than regular bunas typically. Just be patient with the poly/viton o-rings and allow them to break in. I've had polys on my powertube for quite a while now, and they took about 8-10 cases to "really" break in. The FSDO will continue to get less and less as you break them in and once they are fully broken in they work absolutely fantastic.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:31 PM #14
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Again, there is also the option that scares James and that is to hand cycle the parts with some metal polish until they loosen. Then take everything apart and clean VERY thoroughly and reassemble. This breaks it in with only a couple minutes' work.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:13 AM #15
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Blueshifty is 100% correct here. And it is not a joke that after you should remove every single oring and clean them and the groove and all of the parts with a soap like dawn to clean them thoroughly. It's the most important part in keeping your marker working well in the long term.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:05 AM #16
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So you think I should change the xring back to poly?
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:42 AM #17
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For sure. Polyurethane is much slicker and more durable than any other oring that isn't crazy expensive. I mean a PTFE oring would be very good but the things are so hard and expensive they are hard to actually use. Use polys on most bolt related applications besides bumpers and outer orings. It works great basically on all your dynamic orings however you want to fit them decently at first so they all break in quicker. Once they are broken in you will have a gun that will shoot silk for years.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:55 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueshifty View Post
Again, there is also the option that scares James and that is to hand cycle the parts with some metal polish until they loosen. Then take everything apart and clean VERY thoroughly and reassemble. This breaks it in with only a couple minutes' work.
What kind of metal polish would you use?
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:06 AM #19
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Anything that doesn't have chemicals that degrade rubber of any sort. Brasso is a little to coarse. Try mothers mag or Noxon that you can get at lowes.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:24 PM #20
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So if I was to order a new VX noid from a Macdev dealer (like Aggressive Sports) it would be the new one, with the M on it?
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:57 PM #21
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Yeah here's the two of them. The new style is the bottom one.

what about mine? do you think is the same as the red one? it has like an adjustment screw... serial GT #1316



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