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Old 12-09-2014, 11:04 AM #1
Sammy417
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I.D. These ivg



Not sure what they are

Also how much pressure should my 2 liter sit at? I'm at 315psi now

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Old 12-09-2014, 11:34 AM #2
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315 sounds to be in the right range for most Cockers. Have you sweetspotted the marker? That will determine the operating pressure. For future reference, check that pressure with a gauge to make it easy to return to that setting if you have the reg apart or what have you.
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:07 PM #3
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That looks like a CCM lower tube kit. If it came out of the CCM/WORKS gun pictured, that's probably a good bet.
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Old 12-12-2014, 04:15 PM #4
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What type of lube would one use on internals and that 2 liter
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Old 12-12-2014, 04:31 PM #5
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air tool oil; and depending on the o'ring fit, maybe dow33 on the 3-way.
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Old 12-12-2014, 04:35 PM #6
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Originally Posted by tacxplosion View Post
air tool oil; and depending on the o'ring fit, maybe dow33 on the 3-way.
K I'm using the right stuff then.

I can't get it to go over 200 and I've done everything I can. Would I need a stiffer spring maybe? And if I did need one which one do I stiffen
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Old 12-12-2014, 07:43 PM #7
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K I'm using the right stuff then.

I can't get it to go over 200 and I've done everything I can. Would I need a stiffer spring maybe? And if I did need one which one do I stiffen
The larger spring needs to be stiffer to get your velocity up.
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Old 12-13-2014, 12:46 AM #8
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So if I have the Ivg screwed all the way in and it's still not getting past 200 that means I need more stiffness?
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Old 12-13-2014, 01:39 AM #9
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It's a balance, if it's running straight 800 PSI out of the reg, you won't be able to get the hammer to hit it hard enough to let it in.

I advocate a gauge. Knowing where your operating pressure is absolutely non-negotiable. It's a must.

A spring kit is second best. On old cockers that may have sat cocked for ten years, you can have a weak spring.

Buy a spring kit, just for the fresh springs and research what works well with your setup. Having stock Works/CCM stuff, you'll probably be able to get away with a light valve and medium main.

A rule of thumb, never go more than four turns in from flush on your IVG. If you have to, lighten your valve spring, or increase your main spring.
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Old 12-13-2014, 01:56 AM #10
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Thanks for the info! I've messed with it all day at the field and just couldn't get more than 210 out if it
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Old 12-15-2014, 06:01 PM #11
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Looks like CCM internals. I would lower the regulator to about 200psi and see if that bumps your FPS. I would start your ivg in about 3 threads.
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Last edited by PBALIEN : 12-15-2014 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 12-16-2014, 12:38 PM #12
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Just throwing it out there as an opposing view: buddy and I never use gauges on our cockers and have no problems timing and getting them to velocity.

Best recommendation I could give is bring your IVG flush to the rear. Dump your run down to nothing (either screw it all the way in or out, can't remember on the 2ltr) and then slowly turn it up till the gun cycles. Once it cycles, continue to turn the reg up while checking your FPS till it actually drops in speed when upping your reg. Once you see the FPS drop, back your reg down 1/4-1/2 turn. Then use your IVG to fine tune your FPS, 2-3 turns should get you to the right speed.

This is my basic method for every cocker I've worked on. If this still doesn't work you would likely need a stiffer hammer spring. As others have said it is a balance between input pressure, turns on the IVG and spring tension.
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:51 PM #13
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The above method is the correct way to "sweet Spot" your marker. Some people will argue the benefits BUT its worth doing once a season just to make sure your marker is running at the optimal settings.
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:39 PM #14
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Def follow tarrguy57's advice about sweetpotting the regulator. I'd bet that you just need to reduce the regs pressure a bit and the velocity will come up. A gauge is nice but only useful until you know the pressure at which the gun sweetspots.

After finding the optimum pressure, only use the IVG to adjust the velocity. Leave the regulator alone!

And those internals appear to be a Works valve and possibly a Freeflow hammer (possibly a tungen hammer which is bad for the gun). Most Works/CCM hammers I've seen were way longer than that hammer, some with slotted to retain oil.

Good luck man, that's a heck of a nice Works. Tune it right and it will shoot perfectly for a long time to come!
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:45 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarrguy57 View Post
Just throwing it out there as an opposing view: buddy and I never use gauges on our cockers and have no problems timing and getting them to velocity.

Best recommendation I could give is bring your IVG flush to the rear. Dump your run down to nothing (either screw it all the way in or out, can't remember on the 2ltr) and then slowly turn it up till the gun cycles. Once it cycles, continue to turn the reg up while checking your FPS till it actually drops in speed when upping your reg. Once you see the FPS drop, back your reg down 1/4-1/2 turn. Then use your IVG to fine tune your FPS, 2-3 turns should get you to the right speed.

This is my basic method for every cocker I've worked on. If this still doesn't work you would likely need a stiffer hammer spring. As others have said it is a balance between input pressure, turns on the IVG and spring tension.
+1

Outstanding advice. If I could one thing. Is that instead of flushing the IVG you should move it to about a 1/4 in. This will allow you to adjust ti further down just in case you shoot a little higher on a particular day of play.

I remember when our team received the first batch of pre-released/sale autocockers (91/92) from Bud we were told to do a similar procedure but more on the front LPR.

-Turn Reg till gun cycles
-Once cycled, give it an extra nudge and adjust velocity from the IVG.

Last edited by Outta Control : 12-17-2014 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 12-18-2014, 12:08 PM #16
Sammy417
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Thanks guys! I got a new spring on the way once it's in I'll follow the advice giving!

Last edited by Sammy417 : 12-19-2014 at 11:30 AM.
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