[BananaJacksonthe 3rd]

Ohmmeter. Try a new battery and rebuild lpr?

[Paper_Cut]

Originally Posted by BananaJacksonthe 3rd

Ohmmeter. Try a new battery and rebuild lpr?

Obviously, I tried those and saw no change.

For those wondering what we're talking about:

Originally Posted by Paper_Cut

Well, two things:

The first and main problem is the LPR. For some reason it isn't sealing or is just broken because the LPR pressure climbs with the main pressure.
I managed to accidently get it working again and when I had the pressures at 85 and 200 respectively the gun wouldn't cycle(it would just kind of move maybe a millimeter or two forwards and puff air). So, evidently something is wrong with the solenoid. I took the solenoid apart to have a look around and didn't see anything wrong, so I put it back in and when I tried to test it the LPR stopped working again.

[BananaJacksonthe 3rd]

Should have just bought An scm 3

[Vegard]

I don't like SCMs, the thought of mixing oil lubed parts with dow parts makes my brain hurt.

My gen3 and 4 with SCMs were all poop compared to the stock lprs. Worst $30 I've spent :o

[Paper_Cut]

SCM? You guys can't be suddenly springing acronyms and tech lingo at me.

[excessiveego]

Originally Posted by Paper_Cut

SCM? You guys can't be suddenly springing acronyms and tech lingo at me.

SCM III, it's the name of an LPR made by AKALMP


and it sounds like you just had crap in your gun... usually a creeping lpr is caused by one of 2 things, a bad oring or dirt. and a non functioning solenoid is caused by one of 3 things, low voltage, bad solenoid, or dirt.

[poloboy821]

More specifically it stands for "soda can mod"


Happy birthday Rob Kerr!

[Paper_Cut]

Originally Posted by excessiveego

SCM III, it's the name of an LPR made by AKALMP


and it sounds like you just had crap in your gun... usually a creeping lpr is caused by one of 2 things, a bad oring or dirt. and a non functioning solenoid is caused by one of 3 things, low voltage, bad solenoid, or dirt.

I rebuilt that LPR countless times, there isn't a spec of dirt in that LPR. However, on the pin there is that teflon Oring. I didn't have another teflon Oring to replace it with, I tried a buna Oring but I guess it didn't seal as well or something.

[msonic]

There are times that a front block has off tolerances. I could never get my scm to seal right, but every other lpr worked.

[Paper_Cut]

Originally Posted by msonic

There are times that a front block has off tolerances. I could never get my scm to seal right, but every other lpr worked.

I replaced the front block when I thought that was the problem.

[excessiveego]

Originally Posted by Paper_Cut

I rebuilt that LPR countless times, there isn't a spec of dirt in that LPR. However, on the pin there is that teflon Oring. I didn't have another teflon Oring to replace it with, I tried a buna Oring but I guess it didn't seal as well or something.

probably damaged the buna oring, they dont always hold up as well to high pressure. I ran into that working on my Excal, the LPR assembly didnt wanna fit back in the gun with teflon orings so i tried buna and as soon as I aired it up they all blew out.

[BananaJacksonthe 3rd]

never had issues with scm3's, nor any lpr, sealing, Always have two lprs as to eliminate the possibility that the lpr is the issue, also with the noid, any chance you hit the red button to see if it was functioning properly?

[Paper_Cut]

Originally Posted by BananaJacksonthe 3rd

never had issues with scm3's, nor any lpr, sealing, Always have two lprs as to eliminate the possibility that the lpr is the issue, also with the noid, any chance you hit the red button to see if it was functioning properly?

I think the problem with the LPR is it needs a new teflon Orings, which I don't have.
I think the problem with the noid is that its just blown, gone, kaput, FUBAR, broken; however, there could be nothing wrong with it and it might be the ram is simply cursed by God because its gay or something.

I've tried everything I could possibly think to do, no matter how out there it was. I even replaced the low pressure hoses, switched RAM sleeves, replaced all the Orings several times, and swapped barbs. Almost, everything that could be done, has been done, and I'm tired of randomly buying parts hoping to get lucky. I sent it in to someone who fixes Timmies who is going to identify the problem, replace it, and send it back completely cleaned, lubed, and working.

Hopefully after this "timmy reliability" would finally hold water and all I will have to do is clean the paint out of the cracks then lube the ram, LPR piston, and HPR piston after playing and be done with maintenance.

If that isn't the case I'll sell it and buy a shocker, which as it stands seems to be a lot more reliable. Because if I am going to have to take the entire thing apart after I play, I'd rather have a gun that comes apart a bit easier.

[BananaJacksonthe 3rd]

Did you read the manual?

[Paper_Cut]

Originally Posted by BananaJacksonthe 3rd

Did you read the manual?

Yes, and I looked through all the stickies or I would have bought a new membrane pad because that stopped working. Also, half the stickies in the ultimate sticky are threads so old the picture links are dead so its just some short instructions with a bunch of red X's.

[BananaJacksonthe 3rd]

but seriously, The guns are seriously super reliable. After you get this squared away it should run as long as you give it proper maintenance.

[Paper_Cut]

Originally Posted by BananaJacksonthe 3rd

but seriously, The guns are seriously super reliable. After you get this squared away it should run as long as you give it proper maintenance.

If you give it the proper maintenance any gun should run just fine. However, its when you abuse the gun and it doesn't get the baby treatment that reliability comes into play.

Here is a question: if someone went out twice a month and never cleaned or lubed their timmy. At the end of 6 months or 12 cases of paint would the gun still work?

How about if someone forgot their lube at home and used paintball oil, would the gun continue to cycle?

Will it shoot whether its 90* or 20* out, whether its 0% humidity or 100% humidity will it shoot regardless?

If it begins to rain and the game is still on will it still fire soaked in water? If you cover it in mud will it still fire?

If it does all of those things, it is the mark of a super reliable and bulletproof gun, if it is always breaking down at the slightest problem then its just as finicky as all the guns it claims to be more reliable than.

[BananaJacksonthe 3rd]

i have put over 20 cases on a timmy before even lubing it.
I have played in rain with a timmy with no issue
played in freezing cold(22 degrees) and it functioned perfectly
played at 95 degrees with no issues
i played very rough on a timmy and never did it give me a problem. thats the reason i always have one in my gearbag, I know I can pull it out and it will fire!

[Paper_Cut]

Originally Posted by BananaJacksonthe 3rd

i have put over 20 cases on a timmy before even lubing it.
I have played in rain with a timmy with no issue
played in freezing cold(22 degrees) and it functioned perfectly
played at 95 degrees with no issues
i played very rough on a timmy and never did it give me a problem. thats the reason i always have one in my gearbag, I know I can pull it out and it will fire!

Good, then the gun is as reliable as I'd hoped it would be. Basically, I want a gun that, if I don't mess with it, it will work just fine. Shockers you have to mess with it, taking everything entirely apart every so often in order to keep it working. I'm looking for a gun I don't have to mess with; I can just leave it put together with minimal maintenance and go out and play the next week.

[excessiveego]

Originally Posted by Paper_Cut

If you give it the proper maintenance any gun should run just fine. However, its when you abuse the gun and it doesn't get the baby treatment that reliability comes into play.

Here is a question: if someone went out twice a month and never cleaned or lubed their timmy. At the end of 6 months or 12 cases of paint would the gun still work?

How about if someone forgot their lube at home and used paintball oil, would the gun continue to cycle?

Will it shoot whether its 90* or 20* out, whether its 0% humidity or 100% humidity will it shoot regardless?

If it begins to rain and the game is still on will it still fire soaked in water? If you cover it in mud will it still fire?

If it does all of those things, it is the mark of a super reliable and bulletproof gun, if it is always breaking down at the slightest problem then its just as finicky as all the guns it claims to be more reliable than.

the simple answer is yes, but no. If you want a gun you never hafta lube, buy a tippmann. The intimidator, although now over 10 years old, is a $1200 piece of machinery. It does require some degree of maintenance.

The difference is, if you happen to forget to lube it, you wont kill it. It will not necessarily function flawlessly when not properly lubed. If you go shoot a shocker or a DM with dry orings the orings will get shredded and the gun will leak like a sieve. This is not the case with a timmy, but you may have FSDO issues and things like that.

the key to owning a reliable intimidator is reading the manual as Josh said and being able to work on it yourself. When you can fix the gun yourself you can fix almost any problem in 10 mins, when you hafta send it in to be worked on, a 10 minute fix becomes a 10 day fix.

[Paper_Cut]

Originally Posted by excessiveego

the simple answer is yes, but no. If you want a gun you never hafta lube, buy a tippmann. The intimidator, although now over 10 years old, is a $1200 piece of machinery. It does require some degree of maintenance.

The difference is, if you happen to forget to lube it, you wont kill it. It will not necessarily function flawlessly when not properly lubed. If you go shoot a shocker or a DM with dry orings the orings will get shredded and the gun will leak like a sieve. This is not the case with a timmy, but you may have FSDO issues and things like that.

the key to owning a reliable intimidator is reading the manual as Josh said and being able to work on it yourself. When you can fix the gun yourself you can fix almost any problem in 10 mins, when you hafta send it in to be worked on, a 10 minute fix becomes a 10 day fix.

I think you're misunderstanding my point.

I read the manual cover to cover(the 2k2 and 2k5 manual I downloaded off the Bob Long website). I read all of the stickies one by one. And I plan on doing the proper maintenance.

The point I was making with the above post was how I define a 100% reliable and bullet proof gun. Then later I stated that I wanted a gun that can be maintained without having to take it entirely apart after every time I play paintball.

I CAN take it apart and put it back together without any problem, I would just prefer to do so as little as often.

Basically the plan:
After every day of paintball: clean and lube the ram, wipe down the gun, cleaning the eyes, breach, and opening the frame and cleaning out the paint with Q-tips.
Every 6 cases or 6 months(whichever comes first): Clean and rebuild the LPR and HPR
Every year or 12 cases(whichever comes first): break the entire gun down to clean and relube it.