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Old 10-19-2012, 12:03 PM #1
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PM8 in the cold?

Looking for another gun as a backup and one my kids can use when they play. I owned a DM5 years ago that used to have a hard time cycling in cold weather. I also had a Shocker that used to give me issues. How does the PM8 perform in the cold?
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:07 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryBalzak View Post
Looking for another gun as a backup and one my kids can use when they play. I owned a DM5 years ago that used to have a hard time cycling in cold weather. I also had a Shocker that used to give me issues. How does the PM8 perform in the cold?
Depends... With normal lube, it doesn't necessarily do well, but if you mix a little paintball oil lube in with it to thin it down a bit, it does fine.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:11 PM #3
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Bumping up your dwell 3-4 will help as well. Adjusting your LPR up a little may help as well.

Most spools are going to get bogged down when temperatures drop. The viscosity of grease goes up and makes it tough sometimes for a gun to overcome that.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:13 PM #4
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any DM will work in the cold just adjust the LPR, same for the PM'S, as shockers i DO NOT know much about them
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:57 AM #5
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Yep, just add a couple milliseconds of dwell time or a half turn on the LPR, and make sure it's lubed properly.
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:19 AM #6
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Bumping up your dwell 3-4 will help as well.
kept the most important part
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:17 PM #7
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When I swihed to hater sauce on my pm6 and did minor adjustments I was able to play on low 40's no problem. Mixing some oil in will help to though
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:24 AM #8
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Use monkey poo, its for spoolies & great in cold weather. Dudes in russia talking about using it in like 20 degree weather without issues
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:24 PM #9
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Most important is keeping your paint warm.
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:27 PM #10
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Quote:
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Most important is keeping your paint warm.
I toss a couple of Little Hotties hand warmers in a cooler, then a towel over them, then my paint bags. Keeps 'em warm all day.
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:46 AM #11
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I have pm7... i clean spool when gets very cold...add 1 drop pball oil to orings and just add lube to inside of marker...just enough to know it there...and mine works fine without adjustments
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:31 PM #12
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Quote:
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I toss a couple of Little Hotties hand warmers in a cooler, then a towel over them, then my paint bags. Keeps 'em warm all day.
Such a solid idea.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:27 AM #13
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hows warm paint going to keep ure bolt from sticking? lol
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:26 PM #14
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Bolt stick is only part of the problem with paintball in the cold. However most paint should remain shootable in the 40's.

Increasing dwell will do the trick and a touch up on your LPR is worth it. No need to change lube or anything as long as its Dow 33 you aren't gunking it on...
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:33 PM #15
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having issues with mine cant get it to stop leaking air from the regulator. changed o rings and still leaks/ any ideas?
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:21 AM #16
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Quote:
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having issues with mine cant get it to stop leaking air from the regulator. changed o rings and still leaks/ any ideas?
Is leak in the reg coming from the hole, or everywhere else?

Either way - did u replace 007 oring? 015 oring?

If not, u need to replace those. Turn the pressure all the way down on both it and the lpr, and reset both.

There is a great video for it... Will post in a sec
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:50 AM #17
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Here is the video on resetting the lpr, etc, if you've never done it.

http://youtu.be/90bQP--D4Ag

And the 015 oring I was referring to is the one on the piston. U may also want to replace the reg seat.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:24 PM #18
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Quote:
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Here is the video on resetting the lpr, etc, if you've never done it.

http://youtu.be/90bQP--D4Ag

And the 015 oring I was referring to is the one on the piston. U may also want to replace the reg seat.
thnak you for the link i will tak a look at it and see if there is something i may have missed!
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:17 PM #19
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Rules for the cold, using any gun:

Reduce hopper stack tension. Brittle paint breaks easier. If the paint in the stack can't rebound upward a tad.......then it takes the force of the bolt full on. This leads to more broken paint. Slowing down your hoppers feed rate can also help to a degree, if you don't have the ability to adjust your stack tension. Just give yourself a good margin for error between the guns ROF and the hoppers feed rate.

Run a larger bore barrel. Any balls that do get clipped in the stack will be more likely to burst using a tighter bore. This isn't a huge factor but every bit helps. Remember metal shrinks in the cold The bore that worked on a warm day may not work as well on a cold one. Paint needs to expand a bit when fired, so give it room.

Increase dwell time. Efficiency doesn't mean squat if you're making soup, or can't hit anything because of a dirty barrel. If you raise your dwell you can lower your chamber pressure and put a little less stress on the ball. This can also reduce your bolt speed which helps prevent stack clipping.

Keep it warm. Winter paint normally only has a non-freezing fill. The shell is usually the same old shell, and will still get brittle in the cold. Try to keep your paint warm as long as possible. Ideally in a heated car, or even a cooler bag with some type of warming device. Cycle unused cold paint back to the warm zone after every game. A few degrees makes a big difference.

Raise your eye delay(ball in place). Running your hopper dry here and there isn't a big deal when the paint is nice and flexible. The warm flexible shell can deal with minor impacts caused by irregular feeding. In the cold you don't have this option. A higher eye delay will make sure those random gaps in your ball stack wont' result in a clipped ball. It only takes one broken ball to screw up your game. Why take the chance? The effect on your ROF is going to be minimal and besides........shooting slower without breaks is far more valueable than shooting fast and making soup.

Paint quality. As someone already said, use a cheaper paint thats meant to take more abuse. In the summer you may not want to touch brand X because it bounces too much. In the cold, this paint is exactly what you need. It's more durable BUT the cold temperatures will probably ensure that it still breaks on target without issues. Just not in your gun.

ROF. Generally speaking.....the faster you shoot the more paint you'll probably break on a good day. In the cold the probability increases. Cap your ROF at a level lower than what you're used to. Spray painting at 15bps only helps the other team. Shooting consistent accurate ropes at 10bps wins games.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:30 PM #20
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somepie and mrsrkey hit on the most important part, increasing your dwell time. This slows the bolt action down making it easier on paint.

Winter paint is needed, you will blend regular paint in the winter. Only a few markers can shoot summer paint in winter, and of those only finely tuned examples. Droids blend summer paint in winter, and they make proto's look like tippmans for harshness on paint.

Increasing your eye delay is a good idea, but not needed, but do not run your hopper dry in the winter.

Aftermarket boards will have a bip, increase that if you can.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:40 AM #21
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Quote:
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somepie and mrsrkey hit on the most important part, increasing your dwell time. This slows the bolt action down making it easier on paint.
Lowering the LPR is what slows the bolt down, along with grease thickening due to the low temperature. Increasing the dwell just allows more time for the bolt to move forward and chamber to empty before the bolt retracts. Increasing the dwell by itself will not affect the speed of the bolt.

Maybe that's what you meant, just want to be clear.
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