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Old 04-11-2007, 09:45 PM #1
DyeMonic
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Tutorial: Balancing the Regulators

This guide is to help you learn how to balance the regs, which is quite simple once you know what to do.

Materials


-One quarter(or any coin or object used to adjust the LPR).
-Allen keys(stock=5/32")

Step 1

In step one, you first need to zero out your LPR, by doing this, you turn the coin slot counter-clockwise using your quarter, to zero out any pressure that can be created when you have air in your gun.
*YOUR AIR SHOULD NOT BE ON DURING THIS STEP


Step 2

For step two, you need to zero out your HPR regulator. Just like the LPR, you need to turn the screw out using the 5/32" allen key, to zero any possible pressure that could be created out.
*YOUR AIR SHOULD STILL NOT BE ON DURING THIS STEP
**I USED MY CP REG IN THIS PICTURE, FOR MY STOCK REG IS NOT WORKING, IT WORKS THE SAME WAY EVEN THOUGH IT IS A DIFFERENT REG, ONLY FOR THE CP YOU TURN IT IN TO STOP THE AIR FLOW.




Step 3

In step 3, you are now going to turn your air source on into your gun. You guage(s) should read zero. After you you have the air on, turn in your screw to your HPR to increase the pressure to ~250psi.



Step 4

This is the final step in balancing your regs. Right now, you take your coin and turn your LPR in(clockwise) until the noid leaks. Once you hear the noid leak, STOP, now back the LPR out 1/4-1/2 turn with the coin. There should be no leak from the solenoid now. Once you have done this, your regs are now balanced.
*THIS DOES NOT SET YOUR VELOCITY AT ~280FPS, IT IS JUST A GENERAL AREA THAT CAN HELP WITH TEST SHOOTING AND TO HELP YOU GET IN THE AREA TO MAKE MORE FINE ADJUSTMENTS TO GET A BETTER FPS.


*The HPR pressure used is for a stock promaster, and some regs, just like my CP, go inwards to lower the pressure.
I hope this helps.

http://www.*************.org/video/3...f501869b13.htm

Video courtesy of bronze.
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Last edited by DyeMonic : 12-02-2007 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:49 PM #2
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Keep in mind that some regs are opposite for pressures, such as the Hyper2 and Sidewinder.
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:56 PM #3
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Yes, the pressures for this is also for a stock promaster,other wise i would be running much lower pressures.
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Old 04-13-2007, 08:51 PM #4
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yes, thats just exactly how to do it.

and for the rest of you this is a guideline like he said. do this over a chronograph to see what your velocity is. if its a little low turn your hpa up. if its high turn it out a little and take a few shots to see what it changed to.
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Old 04-13-2007, 08:53 PM #5
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Nice. I'd say sticky, but no one reads those anyways
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Old 04-13-2007, 08:57 PM #6
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thats what we're trying to change.
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:07 PM #7
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ok what is the difference between doing it this way and doing it where u only turn the lpr in until the bolt moves fully back and then a 1/2 turn more? i have heard both ways from several people and was wondering which would give me better results.
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Old 04-13-2007, 10:06 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeze02 View Post
ok what is the difference between doing it this way and doing it where u only turn the lpr in until the bolt moves fully back and then a 1/2 turn more? i have heard both ways from several people and was wondering which would give me better results.
They will both give generally the same results, there is no noticable difference between the two methods.. Just do whichever one is easiest to remember for you.
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Old 04-13-2007, 10:08 PM #9
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The one with a turn past cocking can, if blanced perfectly, remove a barely noticable amount from your gun.

Thre amount of kick it removes is no where near worth the time of getting it balanced this way.
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Old 04-13-2007, 10:11 PM #10
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ok cool just wanted to make sure i wasn't doing it wrong
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Old 04-13-2007, 10:48 PM #11
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Yeah, that works fine too. I'm just use to this method.
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Old 04-15-2007, 10:20 AM #12
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Great thread should be stickied really helps!
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Old 04-15-2007, 12:19 PM #13
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There's like a billion spelling mistakes. Check through it and clean them out.
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Old 04-15-2007, 02:49 PM #14
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There's like a billion spelling mistakes. Check through it and clean them out.
I haven't been able to change anything because i'm having computer issues.
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Old 04-15-2007, 03:54 PM #15
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I have another way of doing it, and I think it would make it more efficient, but your way works well. , Dylan.
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Old 04-15-2007, 04:40 PM #16
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Marc, tell me how to do it, or make a new tutorial with your alternate way.
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:07 PM #17
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Well, you have to find the ideal HPR pressure, which is the pressure just below where the it starts to close the valve itself. You need to lower your LPR to when your marker decocks, then increase it very slightly so that it cocks and cycles consistantly. Then lower your HPR all the way down to zero, or maybe about 150, whichever, and start doing a little cycle. You fire three shots over a chrono to establish a vague velocity average, then increase the HPR about 10-20 PSI, and repeat. Keep doing this until you start to see that the velocity begins to decrease. This is the point at which the pressure behind the valve is keeping it closed. Back the pressure off slightly to just below this point, and then use your LPR to adjust for velocity. I haven't actually had a chance to try this, for obvious reasons, but it's an accepted way to sweetspot a cocker. And since they're both poppet-valved markers, it makes sense that this would make it more efficient. Your HPR pressure is increasing, which decreases the LPR pressure because of proportions and ****, and then you use a lower volume of air to reach your desired velocity which in turn makes your marker more efficient.
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:13 PM #18
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Do u think u could make a new thread explaining that with some pictures and stuff because that was really hard to follow. or maybe its just me.
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:11 PM #19
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yes a tutorial would be nice for your alt. way
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:13 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Hawk View Post
Well, you have to find the ideal HPR pressure, which is the pressure just below where the it starts to close the valve itself. You need to lower your LPR to when your marker decocks, then increase it very slightly so that it cocks and cycles consistantly. Then lower your HPR all the way down to zero, or maybe about 150, whichever, and start doing a little cycle. You fire three shots over a chrono to establish a vague velocity average, then increase the HPR about 10-20 PSI, and repeat. Keep doing this until you start to see that the velocity begins to decrease. This is the point at which the pressure behind the valve is keeping it closed. Back the pressure off slightly to just below this point, and then use your LPR to adjust for velocity. I haven't actually had a chance to try this, for obvious reasons, but it's an accepted way to sweetspot a cocker. And since they're both poppet-valved markers, it makes sense that this would make it more efficient. Your HPR pressure is increasing, which decreases the LPR pressure because of proportions and ****, and then you use a lower volume of air to reach your desired velocity which in turn makes your marker more efficient.
I'll have to try that and see if it works.
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:49 PM #21
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Please do, because, as I've said, I haven't been able to and I really want to. On paper it makes sense, but in reality your way may be better.
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