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Old 05-11-2013, 09:23 PM #1
Baccummba
 
 
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Looking to build a mag

As the title says, I'm looking to build one of these notoriously sexy gats but first i'mma e-ja-buh-cate myself. So far my theory is that I can pick up a classic automag(non RT) or minimag for cheap and slowly piece it together with parts from AGD's website but I'm alittle fuzy on a few things so

Questions:

1.) First off, what exactly is a minimag? Just a smaller mag or what?

2.) From what I've read, the intelliframe, X-valve, and ULE body will fit onto a minimag/classic(non-RT) but the ULE trigger will not? Why not? Can it be modded to fit?

3.) I saw a minimag frame on lukes customs and I like that one more than the intelliframe, am I still able to achieve high rates of fire with it?

4.) What all would I need to achieve higher rates of fire?

5.) What can I expect in terms of efficiency? How can I improve effcicency?

Any and all comments and suggestions are welcome!
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:49 AM #2
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I strongly suggest you visit automags.org to get a better idea on what a automag is, also it will help you in what parts you will like for your build.

1)minimag is just the name for a certain automag body. There is also micro mags which were smaller markers made by ptp.

2)ULT can be used on mainly any valve except the retro ones.

3)Yes, speed is achieved through sweet spotting your valve to give the rt effect with your trigger. Frame has nothing to do with it.

4)see 3, also higher input like a 1200 psi regulator.

5)standard automag with 850 input regulator with 2500 fill should get you like 4-5 pods. Automags like gas, there is lots of mods you can do to help with gas if that is what you want to your marker.

If you want a reliable marker made to last that will shoot endless times get a automag.
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:06 AM #3
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Great thanks for the info!

Is there anyway to cap the ROF for say if I wanted to use it for 3 man's??
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:31 PM #4
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To cap it would have to be on a emag. Not on a rt effect.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:47 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOCO View Post
To cap it would have to be on a emag. Not on a rt effect.
Ahhh ok so I guess I'd have to find a way to cap the rotor or get anther loader if I can't
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:59 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baccummba View Post
Is there anyway to cap the ROF for say if I wanted to use it for 3 man's??
practice over a chrono to not go over 12bps. if you train your finger and ears you can sweet spot at 12bps all day long

if youre getting a classic there are 2 different things you can do to improve how it shoots.

1) put a RT on/off in it and a lvl 10. the RT on/off in a classic will act like the ULT will in a Xvalve. the difference is AMAZING.

2) ditch the classic and get a xvalve or a RT valve.


putting a benchmark frame on it will seriously lighten the trigger pull but with a sacrifice. the trigger pull will be like 1/4" and the likelyhood of chuffing (firing without a full trigger pull causing the gun to give you the finger, alot like a cocker) goes way up.

if you want to put your money in the right places for a budget classic. surf around for a nice intelliframe, lvl 10, RT on/off and a decent powerfeed body.

barrel is up to you and your preference. twist lock freaks are very expensive.

if you want to start getting more out of it after you get the feel of it get an aluminum vert body. they all take cocker barrels and will seriously take weight out of your mag as well as opening up the market for barrels. there are alot of vert bodies, ULE being the most common.


after all that xvalve is the way to go. then I would invest in a better trigger frame, Luke's vert being highly recommended by me. and then youll want a hopper that can feed some serious paint...

the beauty of all this...

after youve gone through everything above... youll have enough parts to build a second mag.

And repeat
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Last edited by Jedihippie : 05-12-2013 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:11 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedihippie View Post

practice over a chrono to not go over 12bps. if you train your finger and ears you can sweet spot at 12bps all day long
That's definitely an option however I feel from a professional standpoint I as a ref wouldn't except that. Ill look at loaders and limiting their feed rate
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:13 PM #8
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I edited the post an went full bore, re-read
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:51 PM #9
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I edited the post an went full bore, re-read
It's a good read! I'm surfing around for a inexpensive x-valves gun to save me some cash in the build later
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:00 PM #10
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you can find them around 160-200 depending on condition

look on www.automags.org
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:52 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedihippie View Post
you can find them around 160-200 depending on condition

look on www.automags.org
I think people will ask for more than that just because it has an x-valve.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:27 PM #12
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I'm talking just the valve
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:16 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedihippie View Post
I'm talking just the valve
I think he wanted a price for a whole marker with x-valve not just the valve itself. I would think if he was lucky he could find one for 300.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:34 AM #14
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Originally Posted by CarnageReigns View Post
I think he wanted a price for a whole marker with x-valve not just the valve itself. I would think if he was lucky he could find one for 300.
Yeah I was Lol

I've seen them running closer to $350.

Its because of guns like these and hobby's like paintball that I'm looking for a second job
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:05 PM #15
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About the Minimag, they were a body style. Oddly enough, the Mini part is a bit of a misnomer, as the body is actually longer on a Minimag than a normal Automag. It has a bit of a shroud that is around an inch or an inch and a half longer. But unlike the standard body, it came stock with a powerfeed. What made the Minimag the smaller version was that most people had an ASA under the valve, right behind the trigger frame. You screwed your tank in, and you had your "rifle". The Minimag came stock with a VASA, right in front of the trigger frame, much like most any marker available these days, that people screwed their tank into. This created a smaller, more CQB, style marker. Plus, it had a smaller length barrel. This is not to say that the rail used for the Minimag can't or wasn't used with other Automags, or that people didn't already do something like that with the Automag. But it wasn't standard. You could buy a standard Automag for like $300 or so, then upgrade to a powerfeed body and VASA, spending say around $115 or so, and have the same type of marker, that if you had bought a Minimag, you would have only spent $350 or $375. Prices aren't exact, but you should get the picture.

Also, the Micromag is only like 1/4" or so smaller than an Automag. It had a different detent system, rather than the wire nubbin on the barrel, and used Autococker threaded barrels.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:37 PM #16
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Ah ok cool. Thanks for the history lesson :-)
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:37 PM #17
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And no one makes twistlocks anymore
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:04 AM #18
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This is a real nice set up.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...fs-with-extras
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:44 AM #19
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Very nice! So whats the difference between the RT valve and X-valve?
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:53 AM #20
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weight and a x come with a lvl 10
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:14 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarnageReigns View Post
The minimag uses twistlock barrels, the ULE minimag uses Autococker thread.
Same with the standard body. They also use twistlock barrels. Not sure that there is a ULE Minimag, but I know that normal ULE bodies and most of the aftermarket ones use Cocker threads.

Quote:
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Very nice! So whats the difference between the RT valve and X-valve?
RT is made from Stainless Steel, like the original and Minimag valves did. The X-Valve is made from aluminum, and as Jedihippie said, come with the Lvl 10 installed.
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