[tipprt]

I have an nt that in cooler climates let say 30-50 degrees, after about a hopper and a couple pods it won't shoot the paint anymore. The solenoid clicks and you hear a puff of air and the bolt only travels halfway through the breech. I then bring it in to trouble shoot and after sitting for a bit it starts behaving again and shooting as it should. Is weather the culprit or is something else causing the problem

[MaSsAcRe251]

Did you check the bolt for over/under-lubing? Also make sure your dwell is at the stock setting.

[Blusylver]

It's a oring that is swelling, i had the same issue. It took me about 3 months to figure it out

[tipprt]

Settings are stock and lube is what it should be.

As for the o-ring swelling, which oring could it be

[Blusylver]

Just replace every oring that touches the bolt. Then over lube the shat out of it and DRY fire it alot.

To try and narrow it down to a certain oring will take forever since it takes a while for it to act up

[tipprt]

It was my understanding not to over lube but ill give it a shot

[Blusylver]

Dont over lube if your going to be shooting paint right away. Hints why i said and capitalized DRY fire.

Just over lube the orings you replaced

[tipprt]

I'll give it a shot, thanks

[Word?]

OK let's be a little clearer. Does it stop shooting completely after a hopper and a pod? Or can you walk away, come back and shoot it again?

Because if it stops shooting all together it is not the orings swelling. It is just a case of lube thickening in low temperatures. You can re-create those symptoms you're describing by using industrial o-ring lube(and not hobby/paintball specific lube).

[Blusylver]

Originally Posted by tipprt

I have an nt that in cooler climates let say 30-50 degrees, after about a hopper and a couple pods it won't shoot the paint anymore. The solenoid clicks and you hear a puff of air and the bolt only travels halfway through the breech. I then bring it in to trouble shoot and after sitting for a bit it starts behaving again and shooting as it should. Is weather the culprit or is something else causing the problem

...

[Word?]

Oh,

Well then if he's bringing it inside and it goes away......

Case closed.

Get yourself some hater sauce. For some odd reason it made mine and some other users nt's warm to the touch. I've been using it when I play outdoors, and it works great. I really can't explain why hater sauce does this only to nt's but......it just does.

[**Entropy**]

I've had a similar thing happen on my 10, in cold weather I would adjust your dwell up 1-2 ms and see if the issue persists. I think I normally ran a dwell of 6ms, and when this happened in 40degree weather I increased it to 8ms and the issue went away and the marker shot fine all practice. It could be lube but the stock dye lube is rated for use as far lower temps than the marker will be shot at.

[AcidAngel501]

try fresh litium ion batteries they seem to handle the cold way better, plus a thinner lube should do the trick on cold weaters, personally i tried mine whit dye lube and a litium baterry and the thing shoots lazers even a -10 degrees

[Paint_hore]

use dwell of 10-11

[Word?]

I'm taking back what I said about the hater sauce. It literally froze this weekend with conditions of below 30 degrees factoring in wind chill.

Smart parts sl33k or GOG sl33k or whatever worked the best. Dwell was at 10 and I cranked my pressure so high I didn't even want to check.

[MaSsAcRe251]

Originally Posted by Word?

I'm taking back what I said about the hater sauce. It literally froze this weekend with conditions of below 30 degrees factoring in wind chill.

Smart parts sl33k or GOG sl33k or whatever worked the best. Dwell was at 10 and I cranked my pressure so high I didn't even want to check.

This is why it's not worth it to experiment with other lubes. Dye recommends you use Dow 33 for a reason.

[Rmilledge32]

Ya I ran my nt yesterday at dwell of 9 115psi, didn't have a single issue outside in ne Indiana beautiful 15 degrees...... no joke not a single break or chop. Thing shoots lazerz!