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Old 01-20-2013, 11:23 AM #1
cluelessAutococker
 
 
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Autococker gun help...can't figure it out

so i just got back into paintball and have only ever used tipps and spyders years ago and always wanted an autococker and so i got a great deal on one with a 4500 carbon tank and halo loader but i cant seem to get the timing on my gun right....if i knew how much there was to these things i wouldnt have gotten an autococker but i know i have the back block in the right position along with the bolt....the problem i cant seem to get is adjusting the cocking rod and firing point on the trigger. and another thing is when i pull the trigger very slowly it fires first which is right and then recocks but when i pull the trigger ever so slightly i hear air coming out of the 3 way and i dont know if that normal or not because when i pull the trigger slowly it fires fine, but recocks slowly/not not powerful enough because it sometimes wont fully cock all the way unless i pull the trigger really fast....any help on this.... if you need a pic of my gun let me know because i have no idea how old it is. im going to guess its early 2000's to mid 2000's, not a e-blade though and everything is stock
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:49 PM #2
Paper_Cut
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Sounds like you need to turn the LPR up
Also, remember the cocking rod also needs to be adjusted, so screw the head on the cocking rod in a little bit so the back block will pull back on the cocking rod a bit earlier. But don't screw it in more than a millimeter or two. You don't want it putting too much pressure on trying to pull the hammer back.

When it comes to the trigger, there should be a little bar on the side that lengthens and shortens the distance from the trigger to the 3 way. It should be just long enough so the gun fires before it begins to recock.


The problem with timing an autococker is that almost every website that had a good guide on how to do it has since shut down.

Last edited by Paper_Cut : 01-20-2013 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:01 PM #3
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Adjust your lpr or adjust your 3way.
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:13 PM #4
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if it shoots first and cocks second that is right on the timing ..make sure it isn't too far forward on your trigger pull. this will keep you from short stroking it. sounds like you need to turn your lpr up to make it recock properly. you mentioned that leak from the front block when you pull the trigger slightly sounds like you need to change some orings in the front block
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:20 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p8ntballr68059 View Post
if it shoots first and cocks second that is right on the timing ..make sure it isn't too far forward on your trigger pull. this will keep you from short stroking it. sounds like you need to turn your lpr up to make it recock properly. you mentioned that leak from the front block when you pull the trigger slightly sounds like you need to change some orings in the front block
The 3 way should vent the air coming from the ram so the ram can slide back forwards and backwards properly.
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:22 PM #6
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not at that early in the trigger pull.. the way i read it is he is just barely touching the trigger.. it should be almost to the firing point before it does that. so he has his fire point way forward and his recock way back sounds like a mess to me
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:17 PM #7
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haha i just cant get it....now i got it leaking out of the front of the 3 way. i made a bad ****ing choice for a first gun haha
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:19 PM #8
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SOunds to me like everything is fine, you just need to raise your LPR(cocking pressure). This is assuming your HPR is in the proper spot. I'd go to the autococker forum for video links if any still exist. It's complex to type cocker tuning instructions.
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:20 PM #9
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it sounds like everything is more or less right, you just need to turn up your lpr a tad. and maybe the 3 way timing is a little to "tight" and needs to be adjusted so it recocks a little later in the pull. which should mean screwing the little collar towards the gun, thus bringing the 3 way shaft a little further back so it activates later.

heres a guide explaining how to time a cocker, should cover everything you need to know. theres also a LOT of other info on www.customcockers.com

http://customcockers.com/forum/showt...-an-autococker

and you can always post down in the autococker section here to get better help, well be able to give you much better answers there.

its also possible the 3 way might just need new o-rings or some lube.

once you get the timing right cockers are pretty much bulletproof though. hardly any maintenance and a ton of fun to play with.

got a pic of what kind?
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Last edited by Rebel_816 : 01-20-2013 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:48 PM #10
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also, once you do get it figured out, I suggest you grab some blue loctite and go to town.
Though, locitite is just the difference between timing it once every two years and once every 4-5 years.
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:55 PM #11
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Tried to type it all out, realized, I sort of suck at remember how timing a Cocker works.

This is what really helped me figure everything out. It's basically a downloadable "game" that demonstrates what happens when you fiddle with the different timing mechanisms on a Cocker...

http://home.arcor.de/matzebenz/dl/actsim.zip

Just mess around with it for a few minutes and you should be able to get a feel for what's going on, and what's doing what during your firing cycle.
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:59 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coenen View Post
Tried to type it all out, realized, I sort of suck at remember how timing a Cocker works.

This is what really helped me figure everything out. It's basically a downloadable "game" that demonstrates what happens when you fiddle with the different timing mechanisms on a Cocker...

http://home.arcor.de/matzebenz/dl/actsim.zip

Just mess around with it for a few minutes and you should be able to get a feel for what's going on, and what's doing what during your firing cycle.
However, there are a lot more variables to tuning a cocker than in that simulation.

I tried to find the one I practiced with, but I couldn't find it.

Last edited by Paper_Cut : 01-20-2013 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:04 PM #13
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I didn't say it was definitive, just that it helps bring home the whole package of what's going on. A visual like that can really help tie together all of the different text/video guides that are out there.

Also, it'll help get the gun working for him. Maybe not tuned to perfection, but at least shooting to the point where he can use it a bit.
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:09 PM #14
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I wish someone would make a new tuning guide and the mod actually have the drive to sticky it. Most of the how-to's pictures are dead links.
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:40 PM #15
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moodys guide is still on CC...i think its in the stickies in the cocker section, just noone ever reads the stickies.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:09 AM #16
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I did mine the first time by watching youtube guides. That got the gun mostly working. Then I went to a local Proshop, walked up to the guy who looked like he had been playing for >15 years and asked him to look at it. My cocker is not a mechanical laser spewing death machine. Ok, well maybe not, but the timing is perfect.

My advice, take it to someone who has experience and learn from them
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:35 AM #17
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Timing an autococker is a learned skill. Don't give up!!! Once you work out the gremlins you will never forget how to do it.

I last owned an autococker around 2001. Bought one last week and had it re-timed and a few minor things fixed within 2 hours. Now the gun shoots great.

Buy yourself a valve tool on ebay (~$10-$15) and you can really take the gun apart to figure out how it works.
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:16 PM #18
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I was never a cocker expert but I fixed a lot of other people's guns.

The first thing I always did was get the parts in the proper position. Ram rod fully forward. Cocking rod and back block adjusted so the back block is almost touching the body, but not quite in the fully forward position.

Once that's set.....air the gun up and adjust the LPR until your bolt cocks back far enough to clear the feed tube and then a tad more.

Until you do those few things......everything else will be a problem waiting to happen.

From there you can play with your Three way, the position of the lug, blah blah blah, but you need a working base before you start tuning.
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