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Old 01-28-2013, 09:45 PM #568
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It should be around 14.7 AFR during closed loop (idle and cruising), but it would typically be much richer (probably 10 AFR for break in) during open loop (WOT). Anything near stoichiometric during WOT could be very, very bad.

I'd have to point to tune issue as well here. Even a fresh motor should have no problem doing some hard pulls during break in. Just being able to crack the cylinder walls means the tune was horrible or non-existent.

Here's the car in winter mode. Not too exciting.



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Old 01-28-2013, 09:49 PM #569
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cool story bro
Dom, just watched your Extreme Pump Secrets: Home Edition video bro. Most gnarly.
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Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Thanks!

Also, I have a ~480WHP / ~500WTQ 2011 WRX with a built motor and 6 speed swap.


I've seen you around on NASIOC and the YouTubes. Beautiful car, and impressive numbers!
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I had to google WOT to remember :/ 16:1 isnt bad seeing if main operating level is around 14.3-14.7 and 14.5 should be the idle reading. But I could imagine what 16:1 would do depending on how long he was completely on it. But what I think you mean is that instead of going rich he leaned out and it <del>****</del>ed everything up :/

I need to research because I want to get into tuning and learning about it. Something to keep my mind and hands busy when I have free time.
Should be between 13.2 and 14.7 cruising AFRs (may fluctuate around the top or bottom of this scale depending on your tune), and no higher than 11.8 or so WOT AFRs. Most people like to be in the 10.8-11.2 range, depending on the target AFR. This is all assuming that it's tuned, of course.

But yeah, basically it wasn't tuned to dump more fuel when it needed it under WOT, and instead it leaned out and went all asfjsdkgjdgh

I'd like to learn some more about tuning too. Lots of new things I wanna learn . Make my own tuning business here in VT . I'd make a killing doing road tunes, provided all we have for tuners is that new guy, and a shop that has only ever tuned FWD/RWD cars, and sucks at it. Wouldn't bring my car to them if you paid me to. My buddy had them build his supercharged Civic way back when. They forgot to put half the bolts on when they installed the supercharger. The shop itself is pretty cool though. Only ever been there a couple times, but they always have lots of nice muscle cars
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:54 PM #570
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Dom, just watched your Extreme Pump Secrets: Home Edition video bro. Most gnarly.
thanks deezel washington
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:58 PM #571
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IDGAF about tuning. I understand the very basics of it. Otherwise, I'll leave that up to the pros.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:00 PM #572
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xluben, the tune was indeed non-existent.

Your car's on E85, right?
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:04 PM #573
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The tuning is really REALLY basic during engine break in. The forged metal heats differently and for break in to be accomplished correctly it cant see ANY boost.

This is what I was told. My car has seen maybe... 3-5psi. My EWG didnt even go off so it was just a wee bit.

You guys have no idea how paranoid I am about driving my car right now... and I have to drive it tomorrow :/
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:05 PM #574
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Originally Posted by TheColorCute View Post
xluben, the tune was indeed non-existent.

Your car's on E85, right?
I have a break in tube thats flashed into my ECU right now. He told me that I am banned from boost until after 500 miles... I asked "can it boost though"

He said "it very well could do just that... but DONT DO IT!!!"

lol... I didnt kinda.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:09 PM #575
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There's mixed opinions. There's also counter evidence showing that by not getting on it, you're not seating the rings properly and you won't have a well broken in engine.

I opted for a semi-hard break in. It also helped I was in a limp mode for the first 500 miles with zero boost making it into the engine at all...
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:10 PM #576
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Jr wrote a base map for the EMS to get me down to NJ so we can do the full tune. He limited it to 4,000 RPM (~75mph), so I can't even hit boost. The airflow differences between the 35R and the 6466 are pretty major, so we're not taking any chances, not to mention all of the other fueling changes and such

Asked him if I could race some VTECs on the way down. He said no
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:12 PM #577
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Quote:
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There's mixed opinions. There's also counter evidence showing that by not getting on it, you're not seating the rings properly and you won't have a well broken in engine.

I opted for a semi-hard break in. It also helped I was in a limp mode for the first 500 miles with zero boost making it into the engine at all...
A little boost is okay, as the rings do need to be seated, but only 3-5psi or so. Not full WOT like he did
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:16 PM #578
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Yes, I'm on E85.

I did a semi-hard break in.

What's your setup with the 6466? That turbo has my interest for a possible next setup. It might have more top end than most Subaru's really seem to want though. The 62+ mm turbo's really seem to like 40psi and 9k like the Evo's do.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:25 PM #579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Yes, I'm on E85.

I did a semi-hard break in.

What's your setup with the 6466? That turbo has my interest for a possible next setup. It might have more top end than most Subaru's really seem to want though. The 62+ mm turbo's really seem to like 40psi and 9k like the Evo's do.
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Motor wise, it's pretty much the same thing as Jr's drag motor, just without the pinned mains . It's going to thrive on top end with the 1.15 a/r

Take a look at my build thread. I have ones on NASIOC and IWSTI too, but this one's the most extensive

http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/for...ad.php?t=29892
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:29 PM #580
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It's weird seeing all these people from NASIOC on here now.

xluben your car is so clean though. haha
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:29 PM #581
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Local guy is selling rails and 1600cc injectors, I was planning on ordering new ones next week.
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:30 PM #582
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1.15 a/r, full twin-scroll, twin wastegate, custom twin-scroll upipe and custom twin-scroll headers (custom custom custom custom custom ), sleeved and oringe'd block with Carrillo Pro-H rods and CARR bolts, Carrillo pistons with special clips and pins, built and machined "drag spec" 9,000 RPM HeadGames heads with special GSC 282's, twin Bosch 044's with a surge tank fed by a DW 300, Bosch 2000cc injectors, etc.

Motor wise, it's pretty much the same thing as Jr's drag motor, just without the pinned mains . It's going to thrive on top end with the 1.15 a/r

Take a look at my build thread. I have ones on NASIOC and IWSTI too, but this one's the most extensive

http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/for...ad.php?t=29892
What do you do work wise ? I just saw the nasioc and was like dam when I saw the gallon of milk picture .

Do you run a bottle to some sort of ALS or how do you deal with lag ?
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:36 AM #583
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:07 AM #584
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Lulz^

Drove the car to work today. Everything seems normal. Its making some noises but it may just be me hearing ****. The T/O bearing for the clutch is making noise for sure. The car looked like it caught fire last night when I ran it to burn all the oil off.

I hope my **** isn't ****ed up :/
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:13 AM #585
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So, when breaking in a motor, most of you will agree that taking it into a small amount of boost is okay? My ECU is flashed on a real basic tune so I have yet to take it into any rural boost. The turbo spools just a wee wee wee bit.

After the break in process and I retune, would I then begin a harder break in? What is considered hard/semi-hard/normal break in? Just curious if what I was told differs from what the common consensus is
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:41 AM #586
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Quote:
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1.15 a/r, full twin-scroll, twin wastegate, custom twin-scroll upipe and custom twin-scroll headers (custom custom custom custom custom ), sleeved and oringe'd block with Carrillo Pro-H rods and CARR bolts, Carrillo pistons with special clips and pins, built and machined "drag spec" 9,000 RPM HeadGames heads with special GSC 282's, twin Bosch 044's with a surge tank fed by a DW 300, Bosch 2000cc injectors, etc.

Motor wise, it's pretty much the same thing as Jr's drag motor, just without the pinned mains . It's going to thrive on top end with the 1.15 a/r

Take a look at my build thread. I have ones on NASIOC and IWSTI too, but this one's the most extensive

http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/for...ad.php?t=29892
That looks like a great build! Some local Subaru guys have had great luck with the PTE turbo's (the 58, 62, and 67mm versions). From what I've seen of the 6466 it looks really promising. With good fuel and high boost you should have no trouble getting up into the 700-800WHP range, and probably into the 9's.

Is it remaining a street car, or will it be track only? If you strip it, cage it, and run slicks then 9's all day shouldn't be a problem. Do you have the long gears in yet? I just did a 6 speed swap with the Spec B long gears installed and they're great! Nice even spacing and a long 5th and 6th for cruising.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:48 AM #587
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Oh, also saw that you posted a link to one of the local guys I was talking about. The "Spec B Ratios" video is an 04 STI with a 67mm PTE turbo. It's a street car that ran 9's last year. As you can see in the video, the Spec B gears will get you to about 140 at the traps if you rev to 9k.

As for your tranny options I have had a straight cut 5 speed and now I have the Spec B gears (ie. RalliSpec High Speed Gears) in a 6 speed. I like the 6 speed better, and if you have the STI tranny already it's the cheapest option as well. No brainer to me. Unless you find an 07+ STI tranny for dirt cheap and then swap the whole thing. But the full Spec B gearset gives you the nice cruising ratios in the high gears.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:48 AM #588
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bill my buddy tinted my car for 120$
Thats not bad at all.
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