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Old 12-26-2011, 05:07 PM #1
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Car wax in a barrel

I read somewhere a guy suggested putting car wax down a carbon fiber barrel to protect it. I was wondering if anyone has tried this? What wax did you use? what were the peo's and con's? How long does it last?
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Old 12-26-2011, 05:20 PM #2
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if you put the wax on the inside the ball will pickup some of the wax and cause the ball the not fly straight
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:36 PM #3
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If wax was let to dry and buffed down then there really shouldn't be any for the ball to pick up. I have never tried it and its just something i heard. Thats why I posted the original question.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:11 PM #4
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I imagine wax would cause substantial drag on the ball's surface and thus increase barrel breaks.

I wouldn't do it, plus you'd have a hell of a time getting the wax down the barrel and buffing it.

I know people have used silicone based sprays (such as rain-x) before on barrels and claim that it helps create a "self cleaning barrel". I don't know how the silicone would work on a carbon fiber barrel though.

Ultimately you shouldn't be putting stuff down a carbon fiber barrel to "protect" it, they don't really wear out, and carnuba wax is really only meant to protect from sunlight/bird droppings, etc. But even then carnuba doesn't last long on a car's surface. You'd probably have to wax every case of paint.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:27 PM #5
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They said to use the liquid spray wax, let dry, buff to a shine. I was mainly wondering if it was something that could be done to any barrel but I too thought it wouldn't last very long. I have tried the rain-x and only had bad luck with it. I experienced bad ball acuracy and it didn't really help any with cleaning after breaks. I broke balls on purpose and tried it.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:38 PM #6
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I could see waxing the outside of a carbon fiber barrel for protecting the barrel. It will actually protect the clear coat on the barrel. Inside a barrel I don't see a reason or any advantage to it.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:35 PM #7
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I was kinda looking for a way to "tighten" up the bore a little safely.
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Old 12-27-2011, 05:25 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samuelkeesee12 View Post
I was kinda looking for a way to "tighten" up the bore a little safely.
Then get a different bored backing, or different barrel all together..
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:33 PM #9
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don't use car wax, will cause drag. try rainx!
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:35 PM #10
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I am more focused on the barrel fronts. I have freaks on both of my guns as well as different barrels but i have theorized that as paint has gotten smaller and barrel fronts have remained the same there is more barrel wobble in the front of the barrels. The backs are not what I'm talking about.

If you would've read my earlier post I have tried rain-x with negative affects.
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:15 AM #11
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if you want tighter front, check out lurker barrel
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:32 PM #12
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I was leaning towards that but i have 2 different threaded guns so I would have to get at least 2 barrels. I was also checking into stiffi and dw freak fronts but I can't find their bore size anywhere.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:12 PM #13
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Buffing the inside of a CF barrel? You'll probably get the same effect as jamming a redz swab in an old stiffi but 10x worse.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:16 PM #14
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Thats kinda what I thought when I read it. Like I said in my original post it was something I read and I was just wondering if anyone had tried it.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:46 AM #15
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Doubtful. If they have, they weren't brave enough to tell about it afterwards for fear of being made fun of.

That's the funny thing about this industry, once someone finds something that works, it gets shared around quickly. Contrarily, the bad stuff just becomes rumors.
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Old 12-29-2011, 04:50 AM #16
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Originally Posted by Castro #66 View Post
Doubtful. If they have, they weren't brave enough to tell about it afterwards for fear of being made fun of.

That's the funny thing about this industry, once someone finds something that works, it gets shared around quickly. Contrarily, the bad stuff just becomes rumors.
So true. You don't see many "don't do this" threads.
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:03 AM #17
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Theoretically, a wax or polish could help inside the barrel. I cant see any of those products giving you an increase in efficiency. We are solely talking about clean shoot out after a break.

Not for a CF barrel at all, metal only.

In theory, all we are trying to do is minimize the surface imperfections inside the barrel. The smoother the surface, the easier it will be to get paint off of them. Both of these products do that. Additionally, both of these products repel liquids (water mostly) which may aid in the results.

Overall, if you have a quality made barrel with a nice finish on the inside, and a good paint match or slight underbore, the gun will shoot through breaks the best it can. An overbore obviously wont shoot through breaks well. Additionally, if you have a budget barrel that was machined too quickly, leaving behind lots of surface impurities, then you may find the barrel doesnt shoot through paint well..
The application of surface smoothing products like waxes, sealers and silicons will vary in performance from barrel to barrel. Id suspect that you would see minimal to no results on good quality high end barrels and tangible results on crappy barrels.
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:39 AM #18
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I have used car wax on the outside of a stiff stikk barrel. The wax seemed to help some drying and fading that was occuring on the outside of the barrel. Not sure I would recommend use on the inside.
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:57 AM #19
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The problem with CF barrels is that the honing/polishing on the inside is of the resin used on the CF. The resin will not hold up like a standard metal finish barrel.

IMO why would you buy a barrel that you had to even worry about "Polishing" it with anything really?

samuelkeesee12
You would be better off with a longer control bore back. The slightly larger bore front and the porting is what helps a barrel clean out better. You also start to create drag as the ball exits unless you port the barrel and also not creating air flow "disturbances" as the ball exits the barrel.

Slightly larger bore tips are not a bad thing at all IMO
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:25 AM #20
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Hey there. I just signed up for this forum to blow all of your ****ing minds. I've been out of the sport for a number of years, but I check on the state of the game from time to time, and seeing this thread surprised me quite a bit. Waxing your barrel is one of the oldest tricks in the book, and in the late 90's / early 00's, Pro-Team actually sold a relatively expensive little bottle which was nothing more than repackaged teflon car wax.

I'm writing all of this knowing full well that nobody is actually going to do it because you're all smarter than me and don't want to destroy your barrel because right now the risk of replacing it seems like sooooo much money to you, but waxing the inside of your barrel is the single best thing you can do to improve its overall performance.

First, a few things it doesn't do. 1. It does not make your paintballs fly faster, further or flatter. 2. It does not cause drag on paintballs (Really, it's slick stuff. Ever find a car's finish to be rougher after waxing? Me neither.) 3. It does not improve accuracy of a clean barrel (this was hotly debated in the day, but nothing conclusive).

What it DOES do is simply clean your barrel for you after a ball breaks. It literally makes carrying a squeegee of any kind onto the field a wasted effort. If a ball breaks, the next shot clears 90% of the goo out (this one won't fly straight), the third shot clears the rest and then you're shooting like it never happened. Of course, this does not work if your bolt chops a ball in the breech, but not much else is going to work in that case either. If you have some magic gun, magic paint, or magic barrel that prevents 100% of ball breakage, forget this post and move on with your life.

The process is simple, but requires some tools. You need a shotgun cleaning kit with at least 2 12 gauge swabs, a bottle of liquid car wax, an Outers Tico Tool, and some pipe cleaners or a soft bristled brush. Don't use spray or paste wax. Turtle Wax was the stuff back in the day, but I'm sure someone makes something better now. Try whatever you like, but don't use anything labeled as a "Cleaner Wax" or any other wax that contains abrasives. The Outers Tico Tool is basically a huge shotgun swab that we'll use for the 'buffing' stage. You can find it on Amazon. The pipe cleaners or soft bristled brush will help remove the wax from your porting. If your barrel can be disassembled, I'd suggest doing so first and waxing each section individually. I would suggest waxing every 5,000-10,000 rounds unless you keep your gear in a car or somewhere else that it's occasionally getting severely hot, in which case you might want to do it more often. Make sure your barrel is clean before starting.

1. Take one swab and put a little liquid car wax on it. You'll get a feel for how much to use. Using too much will make cleaning your ports a pain in the *** later. Run this swab down the barrel, twisting it as you go. You're applying the wax in this stage. When you're done, you should be able to clearly see that the inside of the barrel has an even, dull coating of the liquid wax. Wait 5-10 minutes before moving to the next step.

2. Run a clean swab through the barrel just to wipe out the haze which has formed. I also suggest doing this as a one-way operation. In other words, push the swab through and pull it out the other end. Or better yet, put a cotton ball over the bare end of your cleaning rod, push that end through first, then pull the swab through and out the other end. Don't use a jerk squeegee for this unless you have an old one that you don't use.

3. Use pipe cleaners or a soft bristled brush to clean any excess wax from any porting. You may want to repeat step 2 afterward if you used way too much wax.

4. Run your Outers Tico Tool through the barrel and work it back and forth. Depending on how long you've been into paintball, you may be very familiar with this motion.

You're never going to get all of the wax off of the swab you used to apply it. Just keep track of which swab is which for next time.

You're done! The Tico Tool may leave some little fibers in the barrel, but a quick shot with a duster can will blow it out. The inside of your barrel will be shinier than you've ever seen it, and now when a ball breaks, the water repellant nature of the wax will cause the next couple of balls to push everything out.

By the way, if you don't like the wax, every major car wax manufacturer recommends that you not wash your car with Dawn because it strips the wax. So removal is as simple as washing with Dawn.

Last edited by Alighieri256 : 01-15-2013 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Clarification, and identified vendor of specific barrel treatment.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:01 PM #21
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Originally Posted by Alighieri256 View Post
Hey there. I just signed up for this forum to blow all of your ****ing minds. I've been out of the sport for a number of years, but I check on the state of the game from time to time, and seeing this thread surprised me quite a bit. Waxing your barrel is one of the oldest tricks in the book, and in the late 90's / early 00's, Pro-Team actually sold a relatively expensive little bottle which was nothing more than repackaged teflon car wax.

I'm writing all of this knowing full well that nobody is actually going to do it because you're all smarter than me and don't want to destroy your barrel because right now the risk of replacing it seems like sooooo much money to you, but waxing the inside of your barrel is the single best thing you can do to improve its overall performance.

First, a few things it doesn't do. 1. It does not make your paintballs fly faster, further or flatter. 2. It does not cause drag on paintballs (Really, it's slick stuff. Ever find a car's finish to be rougher after waxing? Me neither.) 3. It does not improve accuracy of a clean barrel (this was hotly debated in the day, but nothing conclusive).

What it DOES do is simply clean your barrel for you after a ball breaks. It literally makes carrying a squeegee of any kind onto the field a wasted effort. If a ball breaks, the next shot clears 90% of the goo out (this one won't fly straight), the third shot clears the rest and then you're shooting like it never happened. Of course, this does not work if your bolt chops a ball in the breech, but not much else is going to work in that case either. If you have some magic gun, magic paint, or magic barrel that prevents 100% of ball breakage, forget this post and move on with your life.

The process is simple, but requires some tools. You need a shotgun cleaning kit with at least 2 12 gauge swabs, a bottle of liquid car wax, an Outers Tico Tool, and some pipe cleaners or a soft bristled brush. Don't use spray or paste wax. Turtle Wax was the stuff back in the day, but I'm sure someone makes something better now. Try whatever you like, but don't use anything labeled as a "Cleaner Wax" or any other wax that contains abrasives. The Outers Tico Tool is basically a huge shotgun swab that we'll use for the 'buffing' stage. You can find it on Amazon. The pipe cleaners or soft bristled brush will help remove the wax from your porting. If your barrel can be disassembled, I'd suggest doing so first and waxing each section individually. I would suggest waxing every 5,000-10,000 rounds unless you keep your gear in a car or somewhere else that it's occasionally getting severely hot, in which case you might want to do it more often. Make sure your barrel is clean before starting.

1. Take one swab and put a little liquid car wax on it. You'll get a feel for how much to use. Using too much will make cleaning your ports a pain in the *** later. Run this swab down the barrel, twisting it as you go. You're applying the wax in this stage. When you're done, you should be able to clearly see that the inside of the barrel has an even, dull coating of the liquid wax. Wait 5-10 minutes before moving to the next step.

2. Run a clean swab through the barrel just to wipe out the haze which has formed. I also suggest doing this as a one-way operation. In other words, push the swab through and pull it out the other end. Or better yet, put a cotton ball over the bare end of your cleaning rod, push that end through first, then pull the swab through and out the other end. Don't use a jerk squeegee for this unless you have an old one that you don't use.

3. Use pipe cleaners or a soft bristled brush to clean any excess wax from any porting. You may want to repeat step 2 afterward if you used way too much wax.

4. Run your Outers Tico Tool through the barrel and work it back and forth. Depending on how long you've been into paintball, you may be very familiar with this motion.

You're never going to get all of the wax off of the swab you used to apply it. Just keep track of which swab is which for next time.

You're done! The Tico Tool may leave some little fibers in the barrel, but a quick shot with a duster can will blow it out. The inside of your barrel will be shinier than you've ever seen it, and now when a ball breaks, the water repellant nature of the wax will cause the next couple of balls to push everything out.

By the way, if you don't like the wax, every major car wax manufacturer recommends that you not wash your car with Dawn because it strips the wax. So removal is as simple as washing with Dawn.
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