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Old 01-21-2013, 05:09 PM #1
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Barrel breaks

I was playing today with my critical 100g .68 barrel and there were tons of barrel breaks/chops (not sure) i was shooting a new case of fate in my backyard. Why would the balls break and how can i stop balls from breaking in the future. Thanks

P.S it was 20 degrees outside
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:13 PM #2
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How is your paint bore match?
What marker were you using?

If you are under boring to much that will cause breaks and the fact it's below freezing that doesn't help either way.
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:14 PM #3
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What Marker?

How long is the barrel?

Was in the NE? Is it like...0degrees out?

Type of paint? How old is it?
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:25 PM #4
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It was the cold. Paint becomes very brittle in the cold. Once it gets to a certain point, the paint can't withstand the air pressure used to fire the paintball and explodes inside the barrel.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:00 PM #5
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If fate is the dirt cheap low end paint by valken then that stuff actually works pretty good in the cold. .., as mentioned the cold makes paint way more brittle. If ur gun has an operating pressure above 200 psi then you probably can't play paintball below 40 deg F
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:19 PM #6
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I didn't even see the PS.

It was the temperature for sure.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:08 PM #7
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If its cold, I go to a .693 and shoot at 150 psi to get a consistent shot. It's about 240-250 fps and worked this January in Pittsburgh, pa.

In the summer I under bore down to .684 or lower and get 280 fps on the chrono at the 150 psi.
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:24 PM #8
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Could be the small bore......but most barrel breaks are caused by the bolt clipping brittle paint in the stack. If the paint was actually that small then bolt clipping is even more of a problem.

My rules for the cold/brittle paint, using any gun:

Reduce hopper stack tension. Brittle paint breaks easier. If the paint in the stack can't rebound upward a tad.......then it takes the force of the bolt full on. This leads to more broken paint. Slowing down your hoppers feed rate can also help to a degree, if you don't have the ability to adjust your stack tension. Just give yourself a good margin for error between the guns ROF and the hoppers feed rate.

Run a larger bore barrel. Any balls that do get clipped in the stack will be more likely to burst using a tighter bore. This isn't a huge factor but every bit helps. Remember metal shrinks in the cold The bore that worked on a warm day may not work as well on a cold one. Paint needs to expand a bit when fired, so give it room.

Increase dwell time. Efficiency doesn't mean squat if you're making soup, or can't hit anything because of a dirty barrel. If you raise your dwell you can lower your chamber pressure and put a little less stress on the ball. This can also reduce your bolt speed which helps prevent stack clipping.

Keep it warm. Winter paint normally only has a non-freezing fill. The shell is usually the same old shell, and will still get brittle in the cold. Try to keep your paint warm as long as possible. Ideally in a heated car, or even a cooler bag with some type of warming device. Cycle unused cold paint back to the warm zone after every game. A few degrees makes a big difference.

Raise your eye delay. Running your hopper dry here and there isn't a big deal when the paint is nice and flexible. The warm flexible shell can deal with minor impacts caused by irregular feeding. In the cold you don't have this option. A higher eye delay will make sure those random gaps in your ball stack wont' result in a clipped ball. It only takes one broken ball to screw up your game. Why take the chance? The effect on your ROF is going to be minimal and besides........shooting slower without breaks is far more valuable than shooting fast and making soup.

Paint quality. Use a cheaper paint that's meant to take more abuse. In the summer you may not want to touch brand X because it bounces too much. In the cold, this paint is exactly what you need. It's more durable BUT the cold temperatures will probably ensure that it still breaks on target without issues. Just not in your gun.

ROF. Generally speaking.....the faster you shoot the more paint you'll probably break on a good day. In the cold the probability increases. Cap your ROF at a level lower than what you're used to. Spray painting at 15bps only helps the other team. Shooting consistent accurate ropes at 10bps wins games.

Paint Size. Larger paintballs will generally have less stack clipping issues because they don't roll back into the bolt as much, and because the next ball in the stack doesn't usually hang down into the breech as far. If you can use a larger ball size, do it. Unfortunately most brands are small these days.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:29 AM #9
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Takes alot to break fate... That is one hard paintball...

Didn't read the post above so i might be repeating some things but....

check your eyes.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:29 AM #10
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Also... do you have any idea where its breaking in the barrel of chopping in the chamber
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:03 AM #11
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When its cold I keep my paint in a soft cooler with a few hand warmers. And I just get out what I need. You can also fill a couple extra pods and switch them out after games if you dont use them.
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:30 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYhillbilly View Post
When its cold I keep my paint in a soft cooler with a few hand warmers. And I just get out what I need. You can also fill a couple extra pods and switch them out after games if you dont use them.
This is a good idea, those styrofoam coolers aren't more than a few dollars. You may also want to get a buttload of hand warmers because they don't last more than a couple hours and you'll probably need to throw 3-4 in there at a time to keep the temperature up.

You could also get a propane heater and simply set the paint near the heater. Which has the added benefit of warming you up as well. The problem with cold weather is that its easy to keep things cool, but warming stuff up can get a bit more tricky and you have to get creative.

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Old 01-22-2013, 01:07 PM #13
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You can also dump all your paint in a box before you play and leave it exposed. Mix it every once in a while. The shells will absorb a bit of moisture from the air over time and get a bit more flexible. Sqeeze them to compare their flexibility and when they get a tad softer, bag them up again. If it's really cold the air is usually pretty dry though.....so you have to keep tabs on the paint. If it's wet........they'll go soft fast. If it's dry, they'll soften slowly.
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