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Old 01-09-2013, 04:16 PM #43
geckx7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skateandpaint View Post
and how does sleek lube and gold cup gun oil sound?
I'm using sleek with no issues.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:37 PM #44
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just stay away from oil, its not even needed
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:42 PM #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skateandpaint View Post
well i ordered a 2x rebuild kit fr the g3 just to be ready and im going to wait on buying the piston..eyes might be bad too, is there a way i can tell if its the eyes themself or the wire? or are they together? stupid? ik
Just get a set from XMC. They work great and are decently priced to boot.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:57 PM #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skateandpaint View Post
well i ordered a 2x rebuild kit fr the g3 just to be ready and im going to wait on buying the piston..eyes might be bad too, is there a way i can tell if its the eyes themself or the wire? or are they together? stupid? ik
Doesn't matter unless there is obvious damage to the wire at either the bulb or molex connector. Even then, if it is just a wire issue, it may be fixable with some soldering skill. If the actual eye bulb(s) are bad, then you would need to get a new set (same goes for a wire issue that you can't fix obviously).


Quote:
Originally Posted by skateandpaint View Post
and how does sleek lube and gold cup gun oil sound?
That's fine. Sleek by itself is perfectly fine to use too. Like Foxx said above, the oil is not needed. If you do mix, use just a tiny bit of oil with the Sleek.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:08 PM #47
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thanks guys...the marker is on the way i will certainly be back if i need more help, you guys are amazing
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:11 PM #48
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Originally Posted by skateandpaint View Post
thanks guys...the marker is on the way i will certainly be back if i need more help, you guys are amazing
I suggest the first thing you do when getting it is gas it up, make a video, and try to block/cover where the leak is coming from so these guys can pin point the leak for you. Pull the trigger a couple times too.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:43 PM #49
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Originally Posted by geckx7 View Post
I suggest the first thing you do when getting it is gas it up, make a video, and try to block/cover where the leak is coming from so these guys can pin point the leak for you. Pull the trigger a couple times too.
ill try and do that...its gnna have to be off my crappy webcam tho
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:45 PM #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skateandpaint View Post
ill try and do that...its gnna have to be off my crappy webcam tho
Barrow someone's cellphone. Just an idea.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:18 PM #51
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ok so i just got the marker and the set screw hole on the reg is stripped and the bottom half can kinda freely spin.. will that be a problem? and i opened it up hes missing the back cap oring and all the orings on the bolt so im going to replace thoes but how the hell do i get out/ replace the oring behind the feedneck?
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:27 PM #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skateandpaint View Post
ok so i just got the marker and the set screw hole on the reg is stripped and the bottom half can kinda freely spin.. will that be a problem? and i opened it up hes missing the back cap oring and all the orings on the bolt so im going to replace thoes but how the hell do i get out/ replace the oring behind the feedneck?
Bottom part of the reg spinning is not a problem that I know of. That's for making it left or right side macro line I do believe. Mine moves and I have no issue. Others can help with the oring problem. My fingers are long enough to take it out and put back in. I used a plastic toothpick to take it out though.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:29 PM #53
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If you mean the little screw on the bottom area of the reg, not sure that matters either. That's the one that holds the bottom half of the reg stationary. If it's the one I think. Others will let you know if I am totally off on this though.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:52 PM #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skateandpaint View Post
but how the hell do i get out/ replace the oring behind the feedneck?
use a plastic oring pick. you can buy one from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/O-RING-PICK-...f8dac4&vxp=mtr

you can also use a metal o-ring pick but you really have to be really really careful when you do this. if you're not careful and scratch where the oring sits, you will have a permanent problem. Do not scratch the 2nd breech area where the back bolt oring cycles on! you will also have a permanent problem.

when installing the oring, push the oring down the breech but when you slide it down, try to feel if the oring sits where its suppose to. or get a very very clean barrel squeegee and put it on the tip and push it in. assuming that the oring and breech were already lubed it should slide in and sit where it suppose to. but i emphasize on the clean squeegee! make sure there will be no lint that will get caught of left behind, you will have a problem if this happens.

the finger method is better.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:09 PM #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraniteGargoyle View Post
If you mean the little screw on the bottom area of the reg, not sure that matters either. That's the one that holds the bottom half of the reg stationary. If it's the one I think. Others will let you know if I am totally off on this though.
that is the exact one im talking about it pretty much freely spins and im worried its going to knock my macro out...i have a verticle maxflow from a shocker i can put on there if need be. and my god the simplicity of this marker truly amazes me i might add
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:12 PM #56
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that screw has only one purpose. yeah it's the screw that holds the rotation cap in place. the cap is designed to move the macroline to the side you like best.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:20 PM #57
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I have never had a problem with mine falling out. I cut the macro line so there is no play in it and it has been great.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:27 PM #58
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your macroline wont accidentally fall out of a DP fitting, i PROMISE you. Youl be back before you know it asking why its so hard to remove the line, those fittings hold on tight.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:28 PM #59
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your macroline wont accidentally fall out of a DP fitting, i PROMISE you. Youl be back before you know it asking why its so hard to remove the line, those fittings hold on tight.
LOL this is absolutely true. Once you air it up the first time, that line is not budging.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:41 PM #60
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im not sure if its a stock dp fitting or not it has a new asa but didnt come with a rail
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:42 PM #61
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A wide variety of ASA fit on them without a rail and someone might be able to hook you up for cheap if it is needed.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:43 PM #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skateandpaint View Post
im not sure if its a stock dp fitting or not it has a new asa but didnt come with a rail
G3 does not come stock with a rail. DP fittings would have the DP logo/symbol on it.
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:55 PM #63
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Originally Posted by GraniteGargoyle View Post
A wide variety of ASA fit on them without a rail and someone might be able to hook you up for cheap if it is needed.

the asa i have slides on fine but how would i secure it without a rail? also i just got in a 2x rebuild kit for a g3 from ebay and its 2 bags of orings and i have no way to tell which ones go where
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