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Old 01-01-2013, 08:49 PM #1
vector911
 
 
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Autococker SR Solenoid

Picked up a SR for fun. Course the reg will only output 150psi and it will not cycle. Tore it apart found the no name aftermarket HPR is pure Chinese crap and the solenoid is in 2 pieces and broken.

This solenoid is identical to a DM6-12 except for the last digit of the SMC part number.

SR Solenoid: SMC S0715K-VG-X12
Dye Solenoid: SMC S0715K-VG-X10

Any word on useing the dye one for the SR? I happen to have a DM6 that I'd really like to not take apart, but curiosity might make me do it against common sense.

Nice thing so far the SR holds air with no leaks and the board display is perfect.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:20 AM #2
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I think the DYE one has a higher amperage rating.

The DYE gasket looks similar to the drawing in the SR manual, but I don't have a DM nor my spare solenoids with me at the office.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:22 AM #3
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Just tested. Works perfect. Gaskets are interchangeable. Pics and video up after putting dm6 back together.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:24 AM #4
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Not 100% percent sure but it might work, I've used parts off a similar noid to repair the noid on my sr . Basically identical.

If you can purchase one on the cheap I would say go for it, smc no longer makes the model noid for the sr and basically the only way to get one is to buy another sr gun that is broken for parts and swap it off that.

Any way that's my advice let us know how it goes
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:49 PM #5
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The DM6 Solenoid is the same as the SR noid except the length of wire for the SR one is longer. The gaskets are interchangeable. In order to make it work I'll need to splice in the old SR wires.
I'm guessing that the last 2 digits on the part number is centimeters of wire length?
Also after reviewing the pics and video I noticed that the DM6 noid was plugged in backwards on the SR frame. Not sure if it makes a difference, but will need to figure it out when I find a DM noid.

I have a call out to a warehouse for a proper SR Solenoid, but not holding my breath. If anyone has a line on a DM6-12 solenoid for around $50 lemme know.
Edit: Looks like the HPR is a CP clone or even an old CP reg.

Pics:











Video:

http://youtu.be/Ie0J6n4cmzM
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:20 PM #6
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The last two numbers delineate amperage rating, I believe. It is a s0700 series valve. The 1 says two position 1 throw, the 5 says grommet, the v says 6 volts, the g says... I forget.
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Last edited by barrel roll : 01-02-2013 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:32 PM #7
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No DM solenoids, sorry.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:06 PM #8
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Pretty awesome that worked out.

It sounds nice.

I'm sure there are a lot of broken SR's that could use a new solenoid, and close to as many players who have no idea that this works.

Do you have any problems with LPR pressure or shoot down? What's your operating pressure? I'm also curious on how consistent it is, fps wise.

You should take it to the field and test it... for science?
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:16 AM #9
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Chambers are all the same on the solenoids above. Shootdown, consistency, or lpr issues would not be solenoid related as a dm6 uses more air, shoots fast as the hopper will allow and operates at similar lpr pressure.

The only real question is amperage that the dm6 noid draws. If its less, it might not have enough power. If it draws more, then the board might not be happy for long. My understanding is the dye solenoid is a proprietary build only for dye. I hope that this difference in amperage is solely to avoid some kind of licensing with smc and dye.

I will have to pick up some reballs to dial in all of these project markers. The sr, superstock, protege, and etek have never had paint in them since ive rebuilt/purchased them this winter. I will order a dye noid tomorrow as i have already put the dm6 back together.

Let me know if my terminology or assumptions about these markers are not correct. Ive played since 97 and in oct12 decided to finally pick up an autococker.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:10 PM #10
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I sent SMC an e-mail asking for the technical differences betwixt the two part numbers.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:00 AM #11
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Just snagged a dm6 noid for $40 will know in a week when I put it together if it will hold up. Have 5 tanks of 4500psi to test with, but still no reballs. Should have this wrapped up by the end of the month.
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:25 PM #12
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Nice...interested to hear how it works out...I have an sr I've been tinkering with as well.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:24 PM #13
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Finally have the replacement Dye solenoid wired up and shooting. Since this SR is used I had all kinds of issues that needed to be worked out. Figured out someone had changed the sled/ram adjustment so that paint could never have entered the breach. My final settings looked great dryfireing, but my LPR still feels really high in order to recock.

So far with tuneing and dry fireing, I've used 2x 68/4500 today. Most was with bounce at 1 and eyes off setting at 25. Figure those are the most extreme settings to tune at. The LPR and CP knock off reg seem to keep up with the 800psi tanks, not so sure about my 350psi LP tank though. Will have some reballs by the end of this week.
Have the video below with a recap.

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Old 01-16-2013, 06:26 AM #14
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Autocockers dont tend to like LP tanks very much. Their normal operating pressure is 300-400psi. If the tank is only providing 350psi then you are going to starve the gun of air.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:51 AM #15
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Video shouldn't be private anymore. Its nothing exciting.
Thanks for the heads up on operating range. I was hoping the sr had the latest and greatest in lower tube gear. Testing this time with the HPR at 260 psi. Should have reballs in before the weekend to finish this up.

Edit: I tried the new dye noid with the power connection reversed. There was really no difference.

I set the lpr to where it would barely recock then an additional 1/8 turn. It would cock every time at that point, but I'm guessing its around 90-100 psi guessing simply by the rams resistance.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:12 AM #16
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Sr operating pressure is about average for an autococker. Springing it will help out, but I can't remember anyone that has done that. I went the mq2 route.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:50 AM #17
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Blue valve and green main springs from a Maddman kit will take the sweetspot down to about 250 PSI and quiet it down considerably, in my experience.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:00 PM #18
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Going to shoot it a while and do plenty of testing before making more changes. Thanks for the spring info. I was curious if the normal blue/ green springs would apply to these. Course last time i messed with springs was making a rainmaker lp with a nelson kit 14 years ago.
Reballs will Be here tomorrow.

Edit: are the aka lp spring similar to blue/green?
http://www.compulsivepaintball.com/1...Hammer-Springs
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:54 PM #19
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They're more like blue/blue, they're made with efficiency in mind, the mainspring is about as hard as the blue but is slightly shorter, so it compresses less but in the end it still offers more resistance to cocking than the green maddman. If you're an efficiency nut then the AKA kit is the one to get.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:03 AM #20
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Reballs are here testing testing testing....
Just for those that want an original SR part, this is the only place that could source it and this is their emailed response to my inquiry:



Subject: SMC S0715K-VG-X10
Hello xxxxx,

Per SMC this is a made to order item. It would be coming from Japan and there is a four to six week delivery.
The cost is 36.90 and Radwell has a 50.00 minimum.
I will outsource and if there are parts in the States, I will be sure to let you know.
Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thank you,

Rachel Reagan
Sales Coordinator
Radwell International, Inc. – Home of plcCenter.com
Phone: 800.332.4336 Ext. 657 / Int’l Phone: 609.288.9393 Ext. 657
Fax: 800.257.2869 / Int’l Fax: 609.288.9417
Email: rreagan@plccenter
.com
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:49 PM #21
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Spent some quality time chronoing and writing down my IVG turns and HPR pressures. Course my 0-1200psi ansgear guage died, but I had a 0-300psi as a backup. Had pretty good consistancy at 4.5 in from flush on IVG and 280 psi.

I was setting up to do some rapid fire tests and figuring out which hopper was reball friendly when my bolt stopped cycling. Took the plastic side pannel off and:


So time for another part... Anyone know where to get one of these sleds?
will this work? Looks right, but $20
http://paintballgateway.com/wgp05blmakam.html

before the break it worked perfect..
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