PROCEDURE UPDATED 3/12/14
ALUMINUM = $35
STAINLESS = $65
Process for shipping and payment.
1. Please fill out my online form https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...Tnc6M Q#gid=0
2. PM Me for shipping info
3. Send me your barrel
4. I will bore it (turn around is currently 1-2 days)
5. I will inform you it is complete. And send you a PP invoice
6. You send me payment.
7. I ship it back to you via USPS, unless otherwise agreed upon earlier.
I am looking to get $35
, includes return shipping (International shipping +$5)
I don't own every barrel so I can't guarantee I can bore every kind of barrel but if the od is relatively straight I should be able to. If for some reason I can't get it aligned I will send it back to you no charge.
I keep getting asked about quantity discounts so I am going to put my stock answer here. I am not offering quantity discounts here is why, to bore a barrel in my jig each one takes some time to setup and it does not get any faster doing the same barrel. So think of it this way I can do 10 different barrels in the same time it takes me to do 10 of the same barrel. Typically when you get a quantity discount its because of reduced setup time to do the same operation over and over since my setup is designed to be efficient at a wide range I can not setup any faster even if its the same barrel.
I am going put a standard response to a question I have been getting frequently. The question is the insert is sticking out the back of the barrel is this normal. The answer is Yes. I make sure that the insert sticks out the back of the barrel about 0.005-0.010. this is so make sure when you screw the barrel in the insert will not slide around. the reason DW barrels and freak barrels dont stick out is because they have orings to help keep the insert in place. When I bore the barrel their is rarely enough room to put an oring so I have to make sure it sticks out just a little to keep the insert still. Also their is no worry about hurting the insert unless your using a pipe wrench to tighten your barrel. The inserts are actually quite strong in that direction.
Here is a pic of what the insert should look like in the bored barrel.
Some Freak boring reference drawings.
I am now going to try my hand at some stainless barrels. The price for stainless barrels is going to be $65
Below is a list of barrel types that I know I can do I will update the list as I do more.
UPDATE: Odds are I can do it even if its not on this list feel free to pm me if you have any questions.
- CP one peice
- Spyder stock
- WGP stock
- Eclipse shaft 2
- Eclipse Shaft 3
- Eclipse Shaft 4
- Eclipse Solo
- CP 2 piece
- Bob Long Assault
- Lapco Big Shot
- Bob Long G6R stock
- Bob Long 2 piece
- Dye UL
- Evil Pipe (+5 for windows)
- Evil Driver
- Stock Rev-i (+10 for lots of windows)
- Stock Empire Traccer
- Stock G4
- Stock G5
- New style Karner backs
- Machine Vapor stock barrel
- TiPX barrels
Barrels I don't really want to do.
- Phantom barrels (too much possibility of error when removing the shank of the barrel before the threads.)
- DP Threshold stock barrels
- JJ Edge (I do not believe these barrels are bored straight enough to freak bore in my jig.)
- Lapco tight stick (too thin and already nearly as small as freak inserts come I measured it at 0.6813)
- Eclipse SL barrels (od tends to run at ~0.800 that would leave about a ~0.025 wall just not enough)
- Exalt barrel O.D. is just too thin ~ 0.780
- Lapco Fuse again od is just too thin. ~0.800
- Dye CF - SS is too thin and heat would destroy the body.
ACCEPTING NEW WORK
ALSO ACCEPTING STAINLESS
Please leave me feedback to let others know I'm not just some flaky dude in a garage.