Was looking around on the ICD owners web sight and came across this. I actually just went tearing into my marqs noid (had some gunk on the piston causing a leak, very rare but it happens)
The noid ICD used is the same (or very very similar) as the marq noid (and alot of other BL guns). I know the Intimidator section has a thread on this but its not near as good and the pics are not showing up.
Keep in mind this is from a Promaster forum so the noid has barbs on it instead of being directly mounted like Bob long markers.
I'm posting these photos for those of you want a reference when breaking down / taking apart / servicing / disassembling the Humphrey solenoid HEA10F5-GL-101W.
USE THESE PICTURES AS A REFERENCE ONLY
These are some pictures I took during a recent disassembly of my Promaster solenoid. This particular ‘noid does not fire at a regular dwell setting. I’m not sure of the exact cause of this, but I believe that the damage from one of the grip frame screws warped the pilot section ever so slightly to make it harder for the electrical impules to translate into kinetic energy. This particular solenoid will cycle the marker like normal at dwell settings of 20-25 ms on a Promaster. This is not the normal operating condition though. Promasters are meant to have a dwell of 6-10ms. Again, I am not sure if this particular solenoid is faulty is due to damage from a grip frame screw or, perharps, just excess Dow 33.
The picture below is just an example of how I would place grip frame screws as to not potentially damage a solenoid. The one on the top is just the right length so as not to contact the solenoid when screwed in. The screw on the bottom should only be used for the bottom of the grip frame. It is long enough to contact the solenoid if screwed into the top section and may in fact render your solenoid faulty like the one shown in this guide. Here is a thread where some major grip frame screw damage occurred. This is an extreme example.
Also here is Fivestring's problem with a faulty noid detailed here. I think he ended up swapping the pilot section from a BKO noid and that fixed the problem.
NOTICE: PLEASE READ FIRST IF YOU THINK YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH YOUR SOLENOID NOT CYCLING
If you are having problems with your solenoid/marker not cycling normally via the trigger, I recommend you first depress the red manual over-ride button on the top on the noid WHILE YOUR MARKER IS GASSED UP AND UNDER PRESSURE. I have found that this will cure most non-cycle issues. To do this you will need to take off the right(smaller) hand side of the clamshell gripframe. All other pieces need to be in place and screwed down. Gas the marker up, make sure the breech is clear of any paintballs or other objects and depress the red button. This should cycle(fire) the marker. Before you put the marker back together, I would turn the marker on in dry fire mode and cycle the marker via trigger to verify the marker works normally. If your solenoid continues to give you problems(i.e. not cycle the spool properly via trigger even though you hear the noid 'click') you may have to clean off your spool, in which case you should proceed only through stage one. Any servicing past stage one is asking for trouble. Please proceed at your own risk.
Here is a photo showing how you would have a Promaster set up to depress the red button. Keep in mind I don't have an HPR in this photo, you will need yours if you are to perform this operation.
Before you go tearing into your solenoid
, I recommend you familiarize yourself with some basic solenoid anatomy via these links.
Here’s a link to some diagrams showing the schematics of Humphrey solenoids.
This is a page that helped me learn about general Humphrey solenoid service, although it differs slightly from the one shown here in that it features the breakdown of a Shocker noid.
I am by no means an authority on servicing solenoids, but before you attempt this you should find a nice level workspace with good lighting. These solenoids have very tiny pieces that, if lost, will render you with a useless piece of plastic with a magnet in it. I recommend working on a paper towel or some other medium that prevent things from rolling off.
-Small Phillips Screwdriver
-Dow 33 or Superlube
Here’s the label side up
2Here’s the label side down with damage to the noid from the grip frame screw shown. We are going to start by removing the end part on the left hand side of the noid on the picture below.
Unscrew the two small screws on the endplate. (section opposite the label side) Note, the spool is flush with the end.
To get the spool out, I gently shove a toothpick down the hole labeled #5 and wiggle it around. This should push the spool out enough to be able to grab with your fingertips.
You should wipe the spool down with a clean paper towel and lightly re-apply a small amount of Dow 33 or Superlube as needed. Inspect the inside of the chamber where the spool resides and remove anything that might prevent the spool from moving freely. You could use a twisted up piece of paper towel for this or a Q-tip. If you use a Q-tip, make sure no fibers are left behind that may inhibit the spool being able to move freely. Once you have cleaned, lubed and put the spool back into the noid you may go ahead and re-assemble the noid (use Pic #3
, and #14
as a reference) and install you solenoid back into your Promaster. I recommend verfying that the noid cycles the marker. If it does, congratulations, just lubed your solenoid all by yourself! If it doesn't, well.....there are plenty of noids out there.
PROCEEDING TO STAGE 2 IS COMPLETELY OPTIONAL AND IS NOT NECESSARY FOR REGULAR MAINTENANCE OF A SOLENOID!!!
We’re going to remove these two screws at the other endplate shown here which will enable you to access the spool end and middle(pilot) section.
Here’s a picture of the core section(on the right) separated from the pilot/spool sections(on the left).
You can separate the pilot housing from the spool housing by removing the screw in the top right corner shown here.
What the noid looks like when all 3 portions are separated. Note, there are two tiny magnet rods in the center piece(pilot). Be cognizant of these pieces, you don’t want to lose them.
Here’s a better picture of one of the tiny rods after it fell out. Just put them back in if they fall out. They are magnetic so you will need a bit of patience for this.
Photo of the center piece(pilot) flipped over.
Removed the spool endplate/gasket (small white plastic piece with the o-ring) and removing some excess Dow 33.
Here's a couple of photos that you can use to make sure it's all put back together okay.