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Old 10-07-2012, 06:44 PM #1
rethalis
 
 
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building a spyder from the ground up

Hey all, so I recently bought a tl powered body with nothing. And plan on building a spyder from the ground up.



I also have this coming.

I also ordered a silver vertical asa with lpc housing.

I was going to go lp with it.

Just going to use a polished stock striker (does anybody make a aftermarket striker?)
thinking aka bolt with rear cocking rod beavertail combo.http://www.akapaintball.com/

Some help deciding on a couple of things.
Not sure on valves, either rocket valve or aka valve.
Seems like this trigger frame would be suitable http://www.ansgear.com/Kingman_Spyde...iggerframe.htm
Please let me know what could be better.
and I have no idea on where to start with vertical regs.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

(And no "just save your money and buy a better gun" I know I will be spending about 300 dollars but it would be totally custom from the ground up

Thanks.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:25 PM #2
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The stock board for the e-markers are meh. You might be better off getting a parted grip and upgrading the board instead.

[edit]
As someone who uses a rear cocking marker, the beavertail is a pain in the rear. I've so many scratches on my lens because I brought the thing too close to my mask. That's the reason I actually swapped out the grip from my e99 avant emarker and threw it onto the body of my topcocking 09 Sonix.

Last edited by DuckDownItsPaint : 10-07-2012 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:28 PM #3
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How much money do you have for the project?
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:38 PM #4
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How much money do you have for the project?
I'm not buying all the parts at once.
I could probably go up to 500
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:43 PM #5
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The stock board for the e-markers are meh. You might be better off getting a parted grip and upgrading the board instead.
noted
[edit]
As someone who uses a rear cocking marker, the beavertail is a pain in the rear. I've so many scratches on my lens because I brought the thing too close to my mask. That's the reason I actually swapped out the grip from my e99 avant emarker and threw it onto the body of my topcocking 09 Sonix.
Yea know all about that, I just love the look of them.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:15 PM #6
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AKA & PPS. call them & get parts.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:20 PM #7
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AKA & PPS. call them & get parts.
Sweet. I have been leaning to aka as it seems they have a lot I'm looking for. But I will check out pps.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:42 PM #8
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If there is a chance of co2, PPS regs. If not, go all AKA. Freak bore a Lapco barrel. Buy Ty's brass inserts for the barrel.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:23 AM #9
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Since you want to go low pressure, when you get a front block, drill out the air passage ways to open it up and allow for a better flowrate at the lower pressure.
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:34 AM #10
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LOL what a terrible plan. I mean the plan it self, if you have 500 bucks just buy up 3 or 4 already finished projects with parts you want. Parts are pretty much going to be difficult to get unless you want to pay premium.

The body is a terrible choice if your going with e-frame and expect a decent feed rate. The cross feed isn't really good for speed even if you get it work your still stuck with an awkward configuration that will be tall and bulky. The finger detent is fine for mech, but you should get 2 and it would be better to get a ball detent on the other side. The bolt is difficult to remove on the fly. It would be best to either mill a long as slot or halfback and use a top cocking bolt from something like a vs2. The fact you don't have a striker and i couldn't tell you off hand if it uses a fatty or slim striker. Either way best to use the one that came with it. You need to get a striker made for the e-frame as well or it catches the sear goofy and will jack up your sear of time. As far as valves go, I'd recommend ordering from kingman directly and get the new EKO valve and pin. Its super easy to get working and more reliable imo. The front block needs to be high flow, if its a trinity block then it will do, if its spyder block you will need to drill it out. Get springs, as many as you can find for cheap.

the e-frame is another game alone, but just slapping it on won't just make it shoot fast.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:48 AM #11
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the e-frame is another game alone, but just slapping it on won't just make it shoot fast.
Faster than a mech.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:02 PM #12
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Ya but then you have to worry about batteries and all that, and the spyder rechargeables suck at only like 3000 shots a charge. One time my battery didn't charge for some reason and I was out the whole day of play. It sucked. I say just build a CO2 mech. beast. Get a palmers stabilizer reg, and maddmann rocket valve, with a high flow bolt and tune the **** out of it. You could get over 2000 shots a 20 oz tank. It would take a while to break in the reg but once all done and tuned that thing would be one of the best shooting mechs out there. Especially for a CO2 marker.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:03 PM #13
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If there is a chance of co2, PPS regs. If not, go all AKA. Freak bore a Lapco barrel. Buy Ty's brass inserts for the barrel.
Brass freak inserts?!!! Where?
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:52 PM #14
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Brass freak inserts?!!! Where?
A fella on MCB & PPS. I have a .670, .675, .680 & .685 from Ty.
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:37 PM #15
rethalis
 
 
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Ya but then you have to worry about batteries and all that, and the spyder rechargeables suck at only like 3000 shots a charge. One time my battery didn't charge for some reason and I was out the whole day of play. It sucked. I say just build a CO2 mech. beast. Get a palmers stabilizer reg, and maddmann rocket valve, with a high flow bolt and tune the **** out of it. You could get over 2000 shots a 20 oz tank. It would take a while to break in the reg but once all done and tuned that thing would be one of the best shooting mechs out there. Especially for a CO2 marker.
I don't ever shoot more than 3000 rounds in a day, and I always have fresh 9v's out with me anyway.

My mech project is a minimag. But thanks for the input.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:03 PM #16
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Well, it's coming along.



Got springs and all odds and ends.

Just waiting to get the reg and bolt for it, and pressure gauge.

It has the booyah elcd frame.
32 degrees front block
Aka tornado valve.
CP on off asa.
32 degrees spring kit.
Shocktech spring guide shims.
Quick disconnect pin.
Rear velocity thumb screw adjuster.

Last edited by rethalis : 11-18-2012 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:08 AM #17
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Wow, where'd you even find that frame? Those are pretty uncommon (I don't think they're particularly good, just hard to find especially in modern times).

I don't know how the trigger pull feels on that frame, but if it's too hard to walk then you should buy a microswitch with a lighter trigger pull (50 grams is recommended). Installing it will likely require some basic soldering skills.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:43 AM #18
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Wow, where'd you even find that frame? Those are pretty uncommon (I don't think they're particularly good, just hard to find especially in modern times).

I don't know how the trigger pull feels on that frame, but if it's too hard to walk then you should buy a microswitch with a lighter trigger pull (50 grams is recommended). Installing it will likely require some basic soldering skills.
I got the frame on ebay for 50. Its totally walkable. I have not dialed it in fully yet, but the pull is about the same as a mouse click. And I like the LCD screen.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:13 AM #19
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I love projects like this. You're going in a completely different route than I would, and that's Great!
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:23 PM #20
rethalis
 
 
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I love projects like this. You're going in a completely different route than I would, and that's Great!
That's why I like doing this, it ends up being are pretty unique gun. The reg and bolt will be here next week then it's time for tuning.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:53 AM #21
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I like the way your marker is turning out. The only thing I'm not a fan of is the side feed tube, but to each their own! If you're able to get a nice tune out of your marker you should be able to produce great results! Just make sure you have a full spring kit with valve and main springs. I had a marker shooting at ~350psi (co2 based) and was getting roughly 2500 shots out of my 20oz tank.
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