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Old 01-30-2013, 08:32 PM #85
Metability
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Awesome. I was thinking it could be something with the board which would not be good! I will look them up right now then. Would having the charger plugged in while trying to fire it make any difference? I would just like to see if there is anything else I will need to get ordered. Thanks
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:35 PM #86
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Yeah, dont plug it into the wall and try to fire it.
Plugging it in to a PC is fine, but when it is charging just let it charge.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:20 PM #87
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Alright well I sent haxorware a message over on CC. I hope he can get me one! Is there anything else that will commonly go wrong with the Racegun or an autococker? It didn't seem to leak any air or anything.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:29 PM #88
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Boards rarely go bad. Usually the switch will wear out, but that is easy to replace.
Membrain pads can go, but not often. No new source for these sadly. I dont know if ANSGear still has any in stock.
Free Kicks get out of adjustment (usually involving user error) and they can ROYALLY screw up the firing of the gun. IE It wont fire at all, or it wont catch the sear.
Eyes can get pinched by the grips, make sure there is a channel in the grip for the wire to pass under, or do not over tighten the top grip panel screw.
Sears can/will get broken if the frame is not installed correctly..
Batteries short/die/get old.
The TINY molex plugs break/wires pull out..
Lets see... Thats probably about it for what can really go wrong. ....
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:44 PM #89
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Alright well that is good. ANS had the membrane pad that I needed, and was brand new. We went through the adjustment of the freekick and I believe that it is set properly. The marker also does not have eyes.

So that basically leaves me with needing a new battery. When I installed the grip I pulled the bolt back so the grip sat flush against the frame and then put it together, then fired the gun to bring the bolt back to resting position. So I think I should be good. I will report back once I get my battery situation figured out. I appreciate the help man. I would be dead in the water without it!
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:31 PM #90
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Any time!
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:08 PM #91
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I think the wires may be reversed on my solenoid. I screwed the tank to the ASA without turning the air valve on. Then loaded the marker and turned it to fire mode. ThenI turned the air on and fired it. It shoots, but it does not reload itself. I have to do it manually. Do reversed solenoid wires sound right?
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:20 PM #92
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HIGHLY unlikely.
Do you have RIP and a data cable?
I want to see the info and timing.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:23 PM #93
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I do have RIP but no data cable yet. I'm talking to Haxorware on CC and he said he is going to see if he has an extra. He is also going to look for an un-hacked solenoid wire for me. Battery will be on the way when he looks in to the other parts for me.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:32 PM #94
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Hmm... I dont have any extra either.
Just for laughs... On the board, which plug is it plugged into? Should be the one marked '5way' NOT 'sol'
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:37 PM #95
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the 3-way is plugged in to the 5-way plug on the board. The 'sol' plug goes up to the solenoid in the trigger frame itself
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:08 PM #96
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K... So thats correct..
Have you checked your LPR pressure?
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:09 PM #97
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Low pressure regulator right?

I haven't. Don't know how either.

edit: Are you talking on the air tank itself? I hooked it up to a spyder I have and it reads about 750psi going in to the marker, and that one fires like it should.

Last edited by Metability : 01-31-2013 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:35 PM #98
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The LPR is the reg on the front of the front block. It supplies air to the cocking solenoid. No/Low air = no recocking
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:43 PM #99
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Alright so it is the one with the rod that goes to the rear of the marker? There is one that is adjustable on the face of it. It is currently snugged all the way down. Should I pull a line and put air to it to see if there is flow or is this a horrible idea?
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:48 PM #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metability View Post
Alright so it is the one with the rod that goes to the rear of the marker? There is one that is adjustable on the face of it. It is currently snugged all the way down. Should I pull a line and put air to it to see if there is flow or is this a horrible idea?
The one with the knob is the LPR. Pull the hose off, air it up and see if air comes from the barb. My magic 8 ball is saying NO. You will need to turn the knob out until air starts to come from the lpr.

Reconnect the hose and slowly turn up the lpr untill it cycles fully then +1/4 turn and dont mess with it after that.
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Last edited by Darkapollo : 01-31-2013 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:57 PM #101
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Hmmm... as soon as I gave it air it was definitely getting air to the LPR. I turn the knob out a few turns and the air no longer comes out. Should I turn it until air comes out and then 1/4 turn?
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:02 AM #102
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Turn it down a bit, since air is getting to the noid we need to figure out why it isnt cycling. Even if the wires were swapped it would just 1) drain the battery quickly and 2) still cycle, just in reverse.
When you turn on the grip does the front noid 'click' with out a trigger pull?
Have you pressed the little orange button on the bottom of the solenoid while it has air?
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:11 AM #103
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I'm not getting a click from the front noid. You mentioned that previously and I thought I heard a faint one when I pull the trigger but it is hard to distinguish it between the trigger solenoid clicking. There is not a visible orange button on the bottom of the front noid. I do see something that has a circle with a + across it but it does not push in like a button
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:16 AM #104
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The circle with the + on it is a screw.. Dont remove it.
There has to be a manual trip button on it. It a tiny red or orange button..
No 'click' is not a good sign..

Im about to pass out... Ill be back in the morning.
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Last edited by Darkapollo : 02-01-2013 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:25 AM #105
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I figured it was a screw but it looks strange so I didn't know. I do not see a button anywhere. Could the solenoid be bad? The solenoid looks almost identical to this one:

http://www.ansgear.com/ANS_E_Frame_5...eframe5way.htm

Should I remove the solenoid and take a closer look at it? There are two holes on each side of the air hose inlet where it looks like set screws belong, but I cannot see any in them.
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