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Old 12-10-2012, 03:23 PM #43
Darkapollo
 
 
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Location: New Cumberland, PA
The solenoid goes all the way to the back of the frame.
The pin SHOULD have a tiny plastic washer on it in a figure 8. This is called the Infinity Mod and helps the pin return to its '0' position. The .024 spacer is put between the front of the frame and the pin, so the pin hits the roller cage.
The free kick shim goes in that space so when the .024 spacer is removed, the pin retracts but the cage is held back by the free kick shim.
The idea is to give the pin just a little head start before hitting the roller cage, and that the cage is JUST on the very edge of tipping off of the sear so the slightest kick from the sear solenoid will make it fall.
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:39 PM #44
Metability
 
 
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Okay so I followed your directions and have it installed the way the pictures show. The infinity mod washer was on there as well. When all said and done, I have about a .05" gap between the tip of the pin and the cage. Sound about right?

I also got the new pad installed and it powers up! I couldn't find an electrical connector at radioshack though! Any ideas on that one?
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:46 PM #45
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There should only be the .024" gap between the noid and the cage.

Known sources for the tiny molex:
Old race battery packs
Laptop CMOS batterys
BobLong Timmy harnesses
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:58 PM #46
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I will get a picture of the spacer in place when I get home.
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:16 PM #47
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Alright I got that all sorted. I noticed the battery has the same connector but I need that haha. My roommate told me about a place around here that should have it. If not, I'll have to try and source it somewhere else. Thanks again man! I tried to leave you feedback, but I can't seem to find a link for it.

.024 from front of frame to back of pin, and about .023 from tip of pin to the cage.

Last edited by Metability : 12-10-2012 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:22 PM #48
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YEP!! That sounds about right. The little plug is a PITA to find some times.
You can leave feedback on my link or here: http://www.pbnation.com/out.php?l=ht...hp%3Fu%3D12186
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:29 PM #49
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Is that your website? I will definitely get signed up and leave you some feedback.

One other small thing. When I power it up, I get a green LED and I can't change anything, and I can power it down too. I figured that is because the 3-way isn't hooked up though.
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:33 PM #50
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I WISH it was my website. It is THE HOME of autocockers on the internet, and my home away from home. CustomCockers.com is the first place anyone should go when they have a question about autocockers.
That is in safe-mode.
The led colors go:
Green - Safe
Red - Fire
Orange -Fire eye off (if ACE installed, yours will be red since ACE is not installed)
The button pad from top to bottom: O < >
To change to fire from safe hold the
O > button and it should beep and the LED should turn red.
To change to safe from fire hold the
O > button and it should beep and the LED should turn green.
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Last edited by Darkapollo : 12-10-2012 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:39 PM #51
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Yeah I read the operations manual, but forgot that the two need to be held for a second, I was just pressing them. The solenoid is firing great and the lever that sits on top of the roller cage moves as I believe it should. Thank you so much. I will report back when I get the connector.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:12 PM #52
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If you cannot find one I probably have a few extra so I can send you one.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:37 PM #53
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I tried that place today and no dice. Unless you know of somehwere online to purchase one, could I buy one off of you? Just let me know how much yo would want and I will sent it over. Need maybe an inch or two pigtail on it if you have one like it. Thanks man
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:26 AM #54
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Depending on which connector type it is you might find it on ebay. I have bought many pre-wired 2-pin connectors on ebay.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:51 AM #55
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Depending on if i have any, i can mail you one out tomorrow.
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:08 AM #56
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Does this look like the right connector to you, Dark? Thanks for the heads up on the ebay thing too. I tried looking for a CMOS on newegg but no dice. I just don't want to rob you of parts you would rather keep for yourself. 'Naamean?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-CMOS-BAT...em19c85073 be
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:29 AM #57
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I actually just bought this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120696475784... 4.m1497.l2649

Connector looks the same from the pictures, and it is close to me. I'll report back how it fits. Thanks!
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:49 AM #58
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Yep. That looks like the right molex.
I have parts to support my business of fixing raceguns.. So its counter productive to that if i DIDNT send you one to fix your racegun..
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:41 PM #59
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Well thats good for me, because I knew Racegun had gone out of business several years ago and I assumed all hope was lost on this marker. Hopefully it will be back up and running soon, and if not I may have to ship it to you if something goes crazy wrong on it.

So for a bit of a discussion topic, what makes my marker a Racegun? I know it is a WGP STO, and the Racegun kit came with the trigger frame and 3-way, but the marker has a Racegun tag on it. Was anything else modified on the marker that you would know about?
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:50 PM #60
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Yep, thats basically it. I am a bit foggy on the exact details so let me get the story from my buddies who worked at RaceUSA and RaceDK..

There were no other modifications typically done. Sometimes the hammer or lug were changed to a square lug to help the sear catch, but unlike eclipse modified guns that replaced every thing; IVG, hammer, valve, LPR, Ram, bolt.. Etc.. Racegun was only a frame and 3way.
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Last edited by Darkapollo : 12-12-2012 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:10 PM #61
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I know what some of those words mean. haha.. I gotta get back up on my lingo here. I read that the stock bolt on the WGP STO was metal, but the bolt on mine is a black plastic. There are no other markings on it, however. I am just trying to get the most accurate description of the marker I can. Do you know what type of barrel threads it would have? Maybe a suggestion on a good barrel, or is the Bob Long Assassins barrel a good choice?
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:29 PM #62
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LPR Low Pressure Regulator
IVG Internal Velocity Governer

My guys say that it started life as an STO and some where along the way the owner installed a race kit. The jewels probably came with the frame. If it was a RaceGun factory build it most certianly would have ACE (eyes) installed.
It woukd most definately have Autococker threads. The bolt is aftermarket.
An assassins barrel is garbage because of the huge .689 bore. You need a small .684 or .682 bore. Best bet is to get a freak kit or have your favorite barrel bored to accept freak inserts.
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Last edited by Darkapollo : 12-12-2012 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:46 PM #63
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Thanks for the insight. All I know is that the gun was one of my friends who was on a pro team. I forgot the name of the team, but it was based in vegas circa 2004 or so. I am pretty sure that he had someone build it for him. He lost the charger and all of that, and kept buying new batteries all the time until he got a new gun and this one sat and somehow got dismembered a bit. Would it be worth it to get the ACE? Also, I have no clue where to buy paint locally anymore, but I will do some research on those barrels. The most I am probably going to do it do some desert shooting, maybe go to a field if I can find one.

Is there major differences in air tank brands, or should any old 68/4500 work? I think I may just order one up on friday.
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