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Old 12-06-2012, 09:59 PM #22
Darkapollo
 
 
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Cumberland, PA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metability View Post
Okay I will just order the one then. The button pad is separated from the button board, and it has corrosion or something all over it. What would you want for a charger? Do you have the PC cable or software that it comes with as well? If you would prefer to email me it is lucas89005@yahoo.com or we can wait until I have a few more posts. Also, what kind of air tank should I be looking at getting?
I am out of data cables. I cant keep them in stock.
$35 for the charger and I can burn you the software but it is still available online if you look around.
You will need a good 4500psi tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolute.Paintball View Post
I have a few race gun parts I acquired from a store that went out of business If your interested shoot me a pm and a price.

3 membrane pads aka button pad
3 noid manifolds
3 plastic wire clips
2 ring snaps item # N5000-43
2 retaining rings item # 5133-12
2 o-ring NIT 90sh item # 91417-009-1
2 o-ring NIT 70sh item # 91417-024

Idk if the item number helps much I'm just listing what is on the package.
Can you send me some pics of the noid manifolds?
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:16 PM #23
Metability
 
 
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I just ordered the button pad and the 90* swivel with a piece of macroline. What is your paypal for the charger? I would look up the software, but I have no clue on what it is called or what to look for? How long would it take to get a PC cable?
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:31 PM #24
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Boostedshadow91@yahoo.com
Ive been toying with the idea of making a data/charger combo too.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:35 PM #25
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RIP Download
https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=3fcab...3FAE1B6%211541
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:36 PM #26
Metability
 
 
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Okay so is the price shipped? I would be down for whatever really, as long as I can do everything that it was originally made to do. I'm not looking to break the bank here but I feel like a hundred bucks or so and it will be in good shape again. If my battery is no longer any good would the charger be pointless?

Also, a total autococker noob question, but do I have to remove any of the bolt parts in order to clean and lube it? I can get the bolt out, but the bottom part seems connected to the 3-way. I just don't want to mess it up. Also, is the pin for the trigger just pressed in? I.E. could I just punch it out in order to clean out any dust or anything?

Thank you all so much

EDIT: the software says it might be deleted or expired??
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:50 PM #27
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Gah.. Damn.. Ill look for another link, I have a couple sources for it.

Batteries are being made new by a member named Haxorware. I think he is on here as well as CustomCockers.com.

Yeah, its only like $2 to ship it.

What bolt are you talking about?
The bolt is the thing in the top tube. You talking about the banjo bolt that holds the front block on?
The 3 way is held in by two tiny set screws. Its a bad design because you can smash the 3 way if you over tighten them.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:54 PM #28
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The actual bolt for the marker that fires the paint. Ill oil the orings on it (nevermind, theres no orings on it). Does anything in the 3-way or the part below the bolt need oiling? I see the two set screws, but do they need to be removed? I just do not want to get it out of time, if it even is haha.

Last edited by Metability : 12-06-2012 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:59 PM #29
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https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0By4...zMThl&hl=en_US

I hope the repository still works..

You cant mis-time it really since all of the timing (well most) are controled by the electronics.

A few drops of oil in the ASA is all you need to do to keep it oiled.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:15 PM #30
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Okay last retarded question. Which programs will I need? There is 10 or so on there. I just want to use my laptop for it all. I will also read through all of the .pdf files that are on there. This helps me A ton! I will also get that paypal to you shortly
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:28 PM #31
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It should be the last RIP v2.00 i think? It is near the bottom.
The rest of the files are firmware.
Does your laptop have a serial port?
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Last edited by Darkapollo : 12-06-2012 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:52 PM #32
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Nope, it is too new I think. The only ports are USB, monitor, HDMI, and ethernet.

I lied. I have another seemingly easy question. The "Freekick" piece was in my marker, but I pulled the solenoid and now I can't remember for the life of me how it all was exactly set up. The guide just says to drop it all in and the pictures only help a small amount.
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:01 AM #33
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The freekick goes between the roller cage and sear noid. It is a tiny shim that needs to be .024" gapped. I will include one of my freekick shim tools with the charger.

You need a serial port. 99% of the time USB to Serial adapters wont work. If you have an expansion card slot you can get a serial port card for $10-$15.
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Last edited by Darkapollo : 12-07-2012 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:18 AM #34
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Damn, I might have a 232 port on my desktop but I haven't ran that in about two years either. No expansion port on this machine. Could I just used a feeler gauge for the freekick? I'm trying to find my camera to take a picture of what I have it set like right now. The amount should be in your paypal for the charger, along with the address in the comments. I hope this all comes together nicely!
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:24 AM #35
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the freekick is on the opposite side of the setscrew. All the .024" is from the back of the solenoid to the frame, correct?
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:12 AM #36
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Close.. You need to move the solenoid all the way back. The free kick goes between the noid and roller cage so that the short side of the L is pushing the roller cage back.
I will get a picture of a frame later today so you can see exactly how it should be.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:50 AM #37
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See the little tab of the L shaped piece holding back the roller cage?

Also your charger should be there on monday.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:46 PM #38
Metability
 
 
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I see how you have it there. Thanks for that. I will probably wait until the parts come in and get it all together then. I appreciate the haste on the charger too. I'll let you know when it gets here.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:55 PM #39
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If youve got any questions I have this thread subscribed so just ask and I will get to it ASAP.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:58 PM #40
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Awesome, I really do appreciate that. Hopefully I can get it all together and get a good tank within the next week or so!
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:04 PM #41
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A nice 68/45 will do you just fine.
Hope it works well for you!
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:11 PM #42
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So I just got my charger in today. I appreciate the fast shipping and communication on that. I have it plugged in and it is flashing from red to green so I think it is actually taking a charge! My other parts should also be here today. That just leaves me to get to radioshack and hopefully they will have the connector for the 3way.

Now, I am going to get the solenoid put back together today, so correct me if I am wrong on this:

Push solenoid all the way towards the front of the trigger frame(Or just the solenoid pin?)
Install freekick to hold the roller cage back, and leave a .024 gap between the solenoid pin to the roller cage.
Tighten setscrew.
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