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12-02-2012, 01:51 AM
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#22
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20% more *****in
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rice Lake, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griffan2
why so much step in the bore?
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Because that's how most barrels are....
__________________
You may call it fat, I call it bounce padding.
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12-02-2012, 01:53 AM
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#23
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Griffdawg Spanndawg
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: pasco washington
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well, most 2 piece are just bore then tip. however i have thought about the full gradual step in the past, but what about it makes it better than just a 2 piece? the ball doesnt make contact with the barrel after the origonal bore of it. but i know NOTHING about physics or machining so you probably know more than i do
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12-02-2012, 02:54 AM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griffan2
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I know about that, I'm talking about a 14" insert so it has a 14" control bore. I couldn't think of the name of the barrel that used freak inserts but what I was saying is basically that, with 14" titanium inserts. Why? Because titanium, lol
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12-02-2012, 02:59 AM
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#25
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Griffdawg Spanndawg
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: pasco washington
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hahahhaha yeah i like the idea of titanium, polishes up very nicely 
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12-02-2012, 10:31 AM
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#26
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Northern California
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-9-10" control bore spaced in .003 sizes in the smaller end of the spectrum
-clean styling like the disruptive, PE shaft 4, lapco fuse
-grooved porting like the disruptive, PE shaft 4, lapco fuse
-lots porting like the eigenbarrel
-internal/external anno finish like lapco barrels
-lifetime warranty
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12-02-2012, 05:10 PM
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#28
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20% more *****in
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rice Lake, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griffan2
well, most 2 piece are just bore then tip. however i have thought about the full gradual step in the past, but what about it makes it better than just a 2 piece? the ball doesnt make contact with the barrel after the origonal bore of it. but i know NOTHING about physics or machining so you probably know more than i do
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The full gradual step doesn't really have anything over two piece. Two piece has the controlled control bore, I guess a one piece barrel has the advantage of being lighter over a two piece barrel, but two piece barrels have more options, the ability for a longer control bore, and can be compacted down to a smaller size.
__________________
You may call it fat, I call it bounce padding.
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12-03-2012, 10:04 AM
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#29
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Scottdale, PA
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i,m going to make a barrel out of stainless steel
20 in. long
around .688 i.d.
probably polish it also
cost--- FREE!! 
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12-05-2012, 04:09 PM
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#30
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TC Lansing
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lansing MI
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I'd make either a setup like Lurkers barrels, or I'd just do a set of single piece barrels, 15inches in length. 12 of those inches the bore size (ranging in sizes from .675 up to .689) and the end part (with ports or whatever) being .003 larger then the "control" bore. Why? Because why not?
The barrel would also have no exterior details, just a solid tube with ports similar to dye barrel tips but a little longer and smaller ports.
Material would be super high grade aluminum like lurkers barrels. Or if we wanted to talk straight up fantasy land then the internal surface would be stainless or brass- and the exterior would be high grade aluminum.
Random side thought. Why hasn't anyone tried making a barrel were the porting actually stops for the last inch or two of the barrel tip? that way bunker rub can't seep into the barrel? Could there really be any negatives to this? Assuming you designed the porting correctly all the gas would be gone from behind the ball by then anyway right?
__________________
"Originally posted by YeloSno: comeon guys, I need pro paintballer, not pro buttbanger info here."
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12-06-2012, 06:18 AM
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#31
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Half-cocked
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japy
Random side thought. Why hasn't anyone tried making a barrel were the porting actually stops for the last inch or two of the barrel tip? that way bunker rub can't seep into the barrel? Could there really be any negatives to this? Assuming you designed the porting correctly all the gas would be gone from behind the ball by then anyway right?
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There are barrels like this, Lapco barrels based on the original autospirit design (such as the Tightstick). This is one of the benefits of that design. Yes it does work and no there aren't really any negatives.
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12-06-2012, 12:36 PM
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#32
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TC Lansing
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lansing MI
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Those lapco barrels are so fugly though
Also at this point I have 2 full freak insert sets (stainless and aluminum) plus freak backs and deadlywinds barrels.. So I find it very difficult to look into a new barrel unless it comes free with a gun purchase :-\
I've thought about trying out the Ollie Lang technique of taping off the ports at the front of my barrel but that's also super fugly.. And likely leaves residue on the barrel (he uses grip tape)
__________________
"Originally posted by YeloSno: comeon guys, I need pro paintballer, not pro buttbanger info here."
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12-06-2012, 04:27 PM
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#33
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Griffdawg Spanndawg
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: pasco washington
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I tape my barrel tips to aoid waer so i can sell them later :p
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12-06-2012, 06:55 PM
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#34
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Half-cocked
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japy
Those lapco barrels are so fugly though 
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You'd be surprised ...
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12-07-2012, 03:25 PM
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#35
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TC Lansing
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lansing MI
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Just looked at em via your sig.. Still fugly 
__________________
"Originally posted by YeloSno: comeon guys, I need pro paintballer, not pro buttbanger info here."
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12-07-2012, 06:33 PM
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#36
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Half-cocked
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japy
Just looked at em via your sig.. Still fugly 
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Kids these days
Beauty is in the eye lol
Also, those who recognize what Lapco's barrels brought to the table back in the day often remember fondly.
Anyway, a barrel always looks best when it's being used to great effect 
Last edited by drgonzo : 12-07-2012 at 06:36 PM.
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12-07-2012, 09:05 PM
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#37
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Northern California
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lapco fuse look pretty nice, and compatible with shaft 4 barrels. i have a couple of their backs.

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