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12-10-2012, 07:57 PM
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#22
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proud gmax owner!!!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: woburn MA.
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Did you pull the wire harness down out of the way of the button? And did you get and install the trigger bracket yet?
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12-10-2012, 08:17 PM
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#23
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titular
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA
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The front of the trigger guard does look a little short, now that I compare it pictures online. I think the front is sunk in too far. Can you pull it out just a hair without damaging it?
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12-11-2012, 01:32 AM
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#24
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim4130
Did you pull the wire harness down out of the way of the button? And did you get and install the trigger bracket yet?
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wire harness is not in the way. the trigger bracket went on another gun im selling locally so gotta get another one
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12-11-2012, 02:19 AM
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#25
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyronejk
The front of the trigger guard does look a little short, now that I compare it pictures online. I think the front is sunk in too far. Can you pull it out just a hair without damaging it?
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nah its jb welded in. ive found that i can move the trigger fine until i put the screw/pin in for it. then it really tightens down and i cant touch it
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12-11-2012, 07:34 AM
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#26
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titular
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kool_aid22
nah its jb welded in. ive found that i can move the trigger fine until i put the screw/pin in for it. then it really tightens down and i cant touch it
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Maybe you tightened the trigger pin too much. The threads could be binding on the bearings.
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12-11-2012, 07:40 AM
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#27
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ShockerRepair.com
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kool_aid22
nah its jb welded in. ive found that i can move the trigger fine until i put the screw/pin in for it. then it really tightens down and i cant touch it
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyronejk
Maybe you tightened the trigger pin too much. The threads could be binding on the bearings.
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That sounds like the case. You cannot over tighten the trigger pin, as it will not allow the trigger to rotate freely whenever overtightened.
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12-11-2012, 02:58 PM
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#28
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishballer06
That sounds like the case. You cannot over tighten the trigger pin, as it will not allow the trigger to rotate freely whenever overtightened.
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the trigger can somewhat move around freely when i dont put the pin in (still hits the trigger guard a little) but when i put the pin in and dont even tighten it, the trigger locks up. im pretty sure the problem is the frame
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12-12-2012, 10:16 PM
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#29
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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im not tightening the trigger screw at all so the pin isnt the problem
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12-13-2012, 12:15 AM
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#30
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titular
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Maybe test out a different trigger. You might have something stuck in the frame that shouldn't be there.
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12-18-2012, 12:05 AM
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#31
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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the power button is also very tight on this frame. theres great resistance when im installing the power on/off button. also the body doesnt have serial numbers on the underside, im guessing it was powder coated? something heavy that is making all these pieces fit too snug?
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12-19-2012, 02:59 AM
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#32
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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i tried the stock nxt trigger and it fits and moves around fine. im not sure what it is but the RL trigger will not budge once its fit in. guess ill have to keep it the stock trigger. im gonna try sanding the power button/frame tmrw to see if it fits better
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12-19-2012, 09:57 AM
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#33
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titular
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Before you sand the power button, did you try the trigger without the button in place?
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12-19-2012, 10:22 PM
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#34
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyronejk
Before you sand the power button, did you try the trigger without the button in place?
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not sure i understand the question. the trigger is fine now that im using the stock one. the power button fitting too snug is now the issue lol
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12-20-2012, 08:36 PM
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#35
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Paintball Arkansas
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Arkansas
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This happened to me when the connector from lower board to upper got stuck between the power button and the board, make sure it is not.
__________________
Paintball Arkansas
Sorry in advance, I am probably going to spell things wrong.
***Looking for Grey/Urban Camo Flex Frames. PM me***
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12-21-2012, 01:55 AM
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#36
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xHOBOPHOBIAx
This happened to me when the connector from lower board to upper got stuck between the power button and the board, make sure it is not.
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it's not. im firmly convinced the frame itself is the reason. i got the power button in (snug) and went ahead and assembled the gun. it turns on, but the button itself is still pretty recessed into the frame. i can easily change modes and do everything like i normally would, but the button is not popping out like it should. no big deal i guess now the gun's complete but it's still keeping me awake at night lol
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12-21-2012, 10:28 AM
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#37
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]v[.[].]-[.
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: MEMPHIS 10
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You think the power button is rubbing on the upper board when the frame is tightened down? Does it move freely with the frame off? I had one once that had that same problem, I had to sand the top of the power button down ever so much.
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12-21-2012, 10:56 AM
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#38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kool_aid22
it's not. im firmly convinced the frame itself is the reason. i got the power button in (snug) and went ahead and assembled the gun. it turns on, but the button itself is still pretty recessed into the frame. i can easily change modes and do everything like i normally would, but the button is not popping out like it should. no big deal i guess now the gun's complete but it's still keeping me awake at night lol
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How is the power button when the frame is off the gun? Still have issues or does it work normal? One time my solenoid wasnt quite tightened all the way to the manifold and it made it like how your describing, if you havent checked that it could be a possibility.
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12-21-2012, 03:46 PM
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#39
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohpimp82
You think the power button is rubbing on the upper board when the frame is tightened down? Does it move freely with the frame off? I had one once that had that same problem, I had to sand the top of the power button down ever so much.
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ive tried to install the power button on the frame by itself, no noid/upperboard none of that and it's still too tight. i guess ima have to sand the button and frame just a tad
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12-21-2012, 03:47 PM
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#40
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us
heres the build so far. the only issues with it im having are still the power button, the gauge is crooked lol. not a big deal it does what it needs to. just need to air it up!
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12-28-2012, 02:35 AM
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#41
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That purple stuff
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta
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Got the power button issue and trigger issue fixed! The power button issue I sanded the button itself a little bit and where it was contacting the frame. The hole the button pokes out of was too tight as well.
As for the trigger I sanded it ever so slightly on contact surfaces as well and now it's a nice short pull to activate the board!
Thx for all the help! If anyone has other RL parts let me know! I got some destroys grips on the way just need a RL board
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