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Old 11-27-2012, 07:53 PM #1
KillaKam927
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Chicago, IL
Spyder Elite

Newbie here. Just bought this last weekend. It's bone stock except the 13" barrel. Speaking of, can anyone tell me what kind of barrel I got? O-rings and springs replaced and came with a 12oz brand new tank but it's co2 I play strictly recreation. Feedback and Upgrade tips greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance

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Spyder Elite (a classic!) - bone stock w/ 13" Armson Shocker barrel - Ninja Remote - GA 62/3000 - NXE SP 4+1 pack

Great animations of how markers work:
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:20 PM #2
snprgy
 
 
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looks like an armson stealth barrel.
wouldn't really upgrade it, when you tire of it buy a higher end marker.

Last edited by snprgy : 11-27-2012 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:35 PM #3
aresfiend
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New upgrades I would recommend:

Vertical ASA
VASA volumiser
gas-thru foregrip
Magno valve
Polishing the sear
JT composite barrel

It would just make it better, and I wouldn't suggest those other than for the ****s and giggles factor.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:04 PM #4
KillaKam927
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Thanks snprgy for ID'ing the barrel

aresfiend, the marker actually came with an adapter to make it a vertical setup. Would that be a better setup for balance?
Would the volumizer be beneficial even if I migrate to using HPA?
If I go to a vertical setup I wouldn't be able to attach the foregrip right?
Can you explain the Magno valve and how it's better than the stock one?
Polishing the sear would ???

Here are some upgrades I've read another owner did, any input again is greatly appreciated:

Tigershark Sight Rail
Daisy red-dot sight
Thumb adjuster for spring
AKA Lighting Bolt w/ Rear Cocking add-on
AKA Dust Cover
ACI Subzero 6 stage expansion chamber
Kingman regulator w/ drop forward
New Designz valve with upgraded pin
Electronic trigger
Low Pressure Chamber / Vertical Adapter (32 Degrees?)
Macro-Line
J&J S2 14" Ceramic Barrel (boomstick, CP, and other dye not pictured)
Delrin Striker

Thanks again in advance!
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-Kam
Spyder Elite (a classic!) - bone stock w/ 13" Armson Shocker barrel - Ninja Remote - GA 62/3000 - NXE SP 4+1 pack

Great animations of how markers work:
http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/animations.html
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:56 PM #5
theblindchicken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillaKam927 View Post
Thanks snprgy for ID'ing the barrel

aresfiend, the marker actually came with an adapter to make it a vertical setup. Would that be a better setup for balance? It would cause the overall weight to be out front. Thus forcing you to continuously raise and lower the tank's weight.
Would the volumizer be beneficial even if I migrate to using HPA? The volumizer allows any liquid CO2 to expand prior to reaching the valve.
If I go to a vertical setup I wouldn't be able to attach the foregrip right? Correct.
Can you explain the Magno valve and how it's better than the stock one? Not 100% sure, but the Magno valve has a higher flow rate than the stock one.
Polishing the sear would ??? Polishing the internals creates lower friction on the parts.

Here are some upgrades I've read another owner did, any input again is greatly appreciated:

Tigershark Sight Rail Just added weight. Mainly for looks
Daisy red-dot sight Hard to use. Mainly for looks
Thumb adjuster for spring Will allow for a toolless adjustment of the velocity via the tension on the main spring
AKA Lighting Bolt w/ Rear Cocking add-on Your marker is cocked via the striker. Plus, your rear velocity adjuster would have to be swapped to allow for Rear cocking
AKA Dust Cover Mainly for looks
ACI Subzero 6 stage expansion chamber Fancier looking expansion chamber. May change performance.
Kingman regulator w/ drop forward Would make your marker more consistent
New Designz valve with upgraded pin Increase in flow through the valve.
Electronic trigger Semi, 3-shot, 6-shot, full auto modes. Needs a 9.6v rechargeable battery.
Low Pressure Chamber / Vertical Adapter (32 Degrees?) Low Pressure Chamber would allow a small increase in the CO2/HPA to be available in the marker. Vertical Adapter/Front Block will allow for direct input via tank, a regulator to be added, or an ASA threaded expansion chamber to be fitted. Wouldn't be an improvement over a stock LPC and front block.
Macro-Line Personal preference between macro and steel braid
J&J S2 14" Ceramic Barrel (boomstick, CP, and other dye not pictured)
Delrin Striker Lowered friction on the striker

Thanks again in advance!
Answers in red
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:14 PM #6
KillaKam927
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Wow, you are awesome. I appreciate you taking the time to give your input.

One last question,
I'm going HPA since CO2 is outdated, I just have to decide on a HPA tank ( dont' worry i'll browse the threads for that ) but I need to buy a regulator too right? An HPA tank connected straight to the ASA would damage my marker right? Unfortunately I don't know the operating pressure for the Spyder Elite. Anyone mind explaining how my setup should be for my air system? Thanks again in advance to all!
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Spyder Elite (a classic!) - bone stock w/ 13" Armson Shocker barrel - Ninja Remote - GA 62/3000 - NXE SP 4+1 pack

Great animations of how markers work:
http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/animations.html
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:34 PM #7
theblindchicken
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The stock operating pressure of a spyder marker is typically around 800 psi. Unless specified,(Like Ninja SHP is 950-1100psi, LP is as low as 450ish, and SLP goes down to about 400) most tanks typically output right around 800psi.

HPA connected to your ASA will not cause any damage because spyders run on such high pressures anyway (it's not like a low pressure marker that will blow seals if you use high pressure). I recommend using a little lubricant on the threads to help prevent any binding. A regulator isn't necessary, but is recommended to make your marker more consistent throughout firing cycles.


The ways you can run your marker is:
How you have it now:
Tank --> ASA --> Braided/Macroline --> Valve --> ...

Add in a regulator/expansion chamber & front block:
Tank --> ASA --> Braided/Macroline --> Regulator/expansion --> Front Block --> Valve --> ...

Vertical Setup:
Tank --> Front Block --> Valve --> ...

The second way, especially with a regulator, will produce more consistent results.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:00 PM #8
mnkywitagun
 
 
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Upgrades I would get to make the marker as enjoyable as possible is getting a HPA tank something like 45/4500. lightweight and compact. Second is a electro hopper, a old revvy, or 8v fasta is good enough. Helps with any possibilities of chopping you would never outshoot the revvy or fasta or anyother hopper feeding 10 bps. The marker is great semi. reliable and easy to maintain. The single trigger just seems more natural for a semi mechancical marker. AND yes all you need to do is attach directly your high pressure HPA tank to the ASA. You might want to invest in main spring kit if you want to play with velocity settings. Otherwise i would not do any thing much too it. it has its place as a classic spyder marker. You can always buy another upgraded marker with all the bells and whistles later once you get bit by the paintball bug. ENJOY!
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:57 AM #9
KillaKam927
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When running air through the marker, the gun didn't seem to blowback and re-cock itself. As I was taking apart my marker I noticed that in between the hammer/striker and the valve there was this black rubber spacer. It's about 3/8" thick. It looks like it's preventing the hammer from hitting the valve to release the air. Does anyone know what it is? The marker was bought used but I feel like it was put in there when the o-rings and springs were replaced. Is it possible it's to prevent unnecessary contact between the two parts during storage or shipping? I could be wrong and something else could the culprit.

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-Kam
Spyder Elite (a classic!) - bone stock w/ 13" Armson Shocker barrel - Ninja Remote - GA 62/3000 - NXE SP 4+1 pack

Great animations of how markers work:
http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/animations.html
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:07 PM #10
theblindchicken
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That piece helps prevent the striker spring from warping and allowing it to compress and release the most efficiently.

It's supposed to be between the striker and the velocity adjuster (slip the spring through it and then replace it into your marker) and you'll be set.

It's also not life threatening and causes no harm if you don't have one of those in there anyway.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:21 PM #11
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it is very common that people put the buffer between the striker and the valve. it should not be there, put the striker in first and then the buffer followed by the spring, spring guide and finally the plug.

hope that helps and if you ever get stuck, please give our techs a call at 888-546-4626. press 0 for the operator and ask her to patch you through the first available tech.
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