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Old 11-27-2012, 08:45 PM #22
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Truth is there is more relability and performance in the industry than ever before. Get to your local store and field and try some things. There's a good chance that you'll pick a gun finally, and you'll run into something else you would rather try.

That said, I say go pump.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:46 PM #23
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Axe, Mini, or an AutoCocker. Yep.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:01 AM #24
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Originally Posted by universal_dave View Post
If you're reticent to buy used gear, you're not going to get a 4500 PSI tank...those are all more than $100 when new. A large 3000 PSI tank should only run you $50 or so...but then depending on what gun you get, you may shoot through your tank after only a game or two.

I am not sure of a decent loader in the $50 range.
Are compressed air tanks really so inefficient? I only have to fill my 12oz CO2 can every 750-1000 shots or so (one reason for a electro gun: the counter, if they still have them), but you're saying that if I go with compressed air, I might have to refill after only 250-500?

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Gog envy is an amazing gun for 200$. Electric board capable of 11bps and many modes. Great regulator. Bolt out back, easy maintenance design, double trigger, accurate stock barrel, and it comes in a hard case. It's made by a company called GOG. They also make the g1, extcy, and enmey. All great guns with different features. I highly suggest you check them out.
This was actually shown to me today and I'm considering it in comparison to a Proto Rail. They seem comparable in look and feel, but going back to my complaint with the 68-Carbine, I'd be a little hesitant to buy a 2 year old gun, even new, if there is a chance parts might suddenly become hard to find. That being said, GoG seems like a "new kid on the block" and after what happened with those types from 15 years ago (shocker / angel), I think I might want to buy from a company that is more established and less likely to suddenly evaporate.

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Get an ego7... It is light, has the modes u would need to play just about anything. Reliable.. No orings to worry about really. Accurate and plenty of upgrades are available if u want
From what I can tell, it doesn't look like I'd find an ego7 new since, unless I'm wrong, that was the 2007 model. Even if I could find a new one, I doubt I'd buy a 5 year old gun since I'd be too concerned with it suffering from the same parts problem of the Carbine.

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Originally Posted by Castro #66 View Post
Truth is there is more relability and performance in the industry than ever before. Get to your local store and field and try some things. There's a good chance that you'll pick a gun finally, and you'll run into something else you would rather try.

That said, I say go pump.
I've been to a local store and keep getting different information about the same guns and its getting confusing. Take Autococker for example, the first store I went to said that the whole company was out of business and you can't get them or any parts for them. Then the second store I went to told me that the original company no longer made them, but you could still get newly manufactured guns and parts. Now today I went to a third store and was told that you can get them, but parts are impossible to find so it would be a bad idea to get one. So, three different stores, three different pieces of conflicting information, and now I don't know who to believe anymore.

The same story happened with the Proto Rail. The first store said they were good, but could be tempermental, the second store said not to waste my money, and the third store wash pushing it like it was the best thing since sliced bread. I know people can be biased, but I'm lacking in information and current knowledge to even begin to sort through the mess.

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Originally Posted by 2nwyka View Post
Axe, Mini, or an AutoCocker. Yep.
Noah
I got a chance to play with a Mini today and, well, its just too mini for me. Even without trying to wrap my thumb behind the fore grip, I couldn't find a position for my hands that was comfortable. I'm not sure how much bigger the Axe is, but without at least 2-3 extra inches between the trigger and the fore grip, I don't think it will work for me. As for the Autococker, see above... Are they still manufacturing the guns and parts or not?
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:25 AM #25
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Sounds like you want more performance than you are willing to pay for.

Up your budget and you will find what you seek.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:13 AM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNAKESNIPER View Post
Sounds like you want more performance than you are willing to pay for.

Up your budget and you will find what you seek.
I agree. I highly recommend the axe. Kee has excellent customer service, even if you bought it used on here - They will take care of you. The axe is incredibly simple to maintain, has tons of upgrades from some great guys (Boss and Lurker), and a record of success at the Pro level.

As far as hoppers go, if you are really on a tight budget and want a new hopper, the Proto Primo costs like $15 and feeds relatively quickly. If you get a gun with eyes, you wont have any problems hitting 7-10 bps.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:15 AM #27
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Well I typed out a few paragraphs in an attempt to help catch you up, but they seem to have disappeared in post.

Simply put, cocker parts aren't really that hard to find if you know where to look, though new guns are few and far between. Resale has dropped as far as it likely ever will, so as long as you get past your stigma about buying used, you'll find great value. We have Cocker forums that will be able to help you immensely.

Again, firepower and performance overall has increased greatly over the years, though not everyone is taking advantage of it. Many experienced players are shooting slower than they ever have with "old school" guns like pumps, cockers and mags.

$400 will get you more than enough gun and hopper if you look in the right places, but I wouldn't recommend buying tanks used unless from a reputable pre-owned dealer.

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Old 11-28-2012, 09:55 AM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AviatorMan View Post
Are compressed air tanks really so inefficient? I only have to fill my 12oz CO2 can every 750-1000 shots or so (one reason for a electro gun: the counter, if they still have them), but you're saying that if I go with compressed air, I might have to refill after only 250-500?
CO2 always had a lot of "bang for the buck" because of the phase change...since the tank was holding liquid, it was *very* dense and worked for a lot of shots....but the downsides of CO2 are pretty severe. It's very temperature sensitive, you'll freeze your tank if you lay on the trigger and then *nothing* is working right, and there's any number of modern guns that I would be very reticent to put CO2 through.

HPA (High Pressure Air) has no state change...it's all gas. No real temperature sensitivity (technically there is, but it's really not something you can notice) and it will behave consistently no matter how you shoot until the tank runs dry.

This does mean, though, you'll need a lot more "volume". CO2 tanks rated themselves by ounces (7oz, 20oz). HPA tanks rate by cubic inches. A 13ci/3000 HPA tank is *roughly* analogous to a 7oz tank and a 48ci/3000 tank is *roughly* analogous to a 20oz tank....but in each case, since the CO2 is holding liquid (very dense), the CO2 will get more shots. If you get up to 4500 PSI tanks, you start getting volumes that will get you the same shot counts as CO2.
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:48 AM #29
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However, all of that barely matters anymore because the majority of fields have a single fill fee for the day, often worked into the field fee.
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:57 AM #30
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However, all of that barely matters anymore because the majority of fields have a single fill fee for the day, often worked into the field fee.
Constant refilling can be a PITA, and if you're really only managing a game or two average out of your tank there are any number of open play situations where you're going to run dry before it's convenient to refill again.
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:04 AM #31
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It can be, but isn't for everyone. That comes down to personal preference, balancing your gear size to your usage.
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:35 AM #32
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Quote:
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It can be, but isn't for everyone. That comes down to personal preference, balancing your gear size to your usage.
True enough....I just still disagree with the "it barely matters" sentiment. Cost of a refill never seemed to me to be the item that drove the purchase of bigger tanks back in the day....folks got the tanks that fit the amount of refill hassle they were willing to deal with.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:26 PM #33
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:13 PM #34
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I'd second the suggestion to up your budget to around $350... the Planet Eclipse Etha is excellent. It's so excellent I actually bought a second one to loan out to friends when they join me... and a number of folks are in the process of buying their own.

It's incredibly simple to maintain, has the same reg as PE's high-end tournament markers, and comes with a wicked parts and tool set... plus a hardshell carrying case.

I plan to use it as my main marker for the next 5 years, just like you!

ANSGear has air tanks incredibly cheap (thoughts forum?).

Buy a used electronic hopper off Craigs List. Upgrade when you're ready. I bought the Virtue Spire because it's almost indestructible (and I'm hard on my gear), but that's a heck of a jump in price.

I have two Tippy A5's, one of which was my marker of choice for over 5 years. The 2nd is my wife's. It takes me nearly 45 minutes to take one apart, clean, lube and put it all back together. It takes me 5 minutes to take apart, clean, lube and put my Etha back together. Guess which one I actually do regular maintenance on?

Anyway, just my two cents. I think you'll be able to find something that works for you... good luck and best wishes!

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Old 11-29-2012, 03:07 PM #35
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Building a pump can be the most cost effective measure. I bought someone's package that included a prostock cocker for$100 that came with a tank and all stock pneus. Sold the tank and pneus for 50 and 50, bought a CCM pump kit for $80 which makes the total cost at $80. Pump kits can be found even cheaper (around $30) so if you are willing to shop around and work you can find any part you want for cockers. The online communities make it a ton easier also.

If you are set on an elecro I would suggest and ION. I shot one for 5 years and it never let me down, parts are everywhere and they are very consistent and fast shooters. You can find a nice ion for $100 which leaves plenty of space for upgrades such as hoppers, barrels, or tanks.

Also if you want to spend around $300 for the gun alone the Etek series can be found around that price on the BST section and they shoot very nice for what you pay. Several of my teammates shoot them and they are excellent for the price.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:32 PM #36
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In all honesty man you really need to do some more research. Your making assumptions on alot of stuff on incorrect info.

For example: "GOG is the new kid on the block"
GOG is basically just smart parts with a new name.

Also you think price is an indicator on how guns will shoot. The Axe is a mini with a different body and more features basically, such as tool less bolt removal. Just because it is more expensive doesnt mean it shoots better.

For the price range your looking at your not going to find a much better shooting gun than the SP-1 unless its used. The SP-1 is a solid spoolie and shoots great, I tried one before and only went with the Etek 3 because I wanted a poppit and I had to get the Etek used.

Let me repeat this- YOU ARE NOT GOING TO FIND A BETTER USED GUN FOR -$200 than the SP-1. It is not a blowback like a tippman or spyder it is a spoolie. Check the reviews. Only reason it is cheap is because theres a newer model and they must have found some of these in stockpile. There is no danger in replacement parts running out anytime soon.
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:54 PM #37
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Originally Posted by SNAKESNIPER View Post
Sounds like you want more performance than you are willing to pay for.

Up your budget and you will find what you seek.
I'm not so sure performance is the issue here. To be honest, I doubt I'll ever use even the most entry level electros to their fullest potential as the chances of me even coming close to putting out 11-14 bps are fairly low. My concerns lie more with how it will shoot casually and how it will last than whether I can suck a hopper of paint through the gun in a minute without a hitch. These are based mostly off of the general idea that buying a cheap gun means cheap parts, cheap performance, and cheap reliability... all of which I really want to avoid. I know I could save up a lot more money and buy a much higher end gun, but after a point, I think the extra money doesn't really give that much better performance and, as a mid-level rec player at best, I think I should be looking for a good mid-level rec gun.

Also, don't forget that I'm coming from a 15-17 year old gun (I can't even remember exactly when I bought it) that is all old tech and not designed for any kind of competitive play at all, so pretty much anything I buy now is probably going to blow that out of the water.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Castro #66 View Post
Well I typed out a few paragraphs in an attempt to help catch you up, but they seem to have disappeared in post.

Simply put, cocker parts aren't really that hard to find if you know where to look, though new guns are few and far between. Resale has dropped as far as it likely ever will, so as long as you get past your stigma about buying used, you'll find great value. We have Cocker forums that will be able to help you immensely.

Again, firepower and performance overall has increased greatly over the years, though not everyone is taking advantage of it. Many experienced players are shooting slower than they ever have with "old school" guns like pumps, cockers and mags.

$400 will get you more than enough gun and hopper if you look in the right places, but I wouldn't recommend buying tanks used unless from a reputable pre-owned dealer.

Forums are the perfect place to catch up with the world at your leisure! Welcome to PbNation!
I got to shoot a cocker for the first time in my life yesterday. It was a pump conversion with a really nice barrel, but it was the most accurate gun I'd ever fired (able to hit a weed-whacker string consistently from about 80 feet). The store also has a used WGP Trilogy for $150 which I found myself oogling for a while, partly because its a cocker and I had always wanted one, and partly because the price would allow for upgrades. That all being said, I am not as young and impulsive as I used to be, thankfully, and I'm doing research before I buy anything and that research is telling me that the Trilogy is not that great of a gun and maybe I should look elsewhere. From what I've read, its basically a cocker in name only, with extremely limited ability to tweak and few opportunities to upgrade, meaning that, while it might be a great gun for now, I won't be able to upgrade it into something better as time goes on like I could have done with the older, more expensive guns.

On another note, I am slowly starting to move towards the idea of buying used, if only because I have the backing of a local store that says they will examine any gun I bring to them for free and tell me whether it is going to be a good purchase. I'm still leaning toward new, but if I can find an amazing deal on a higher end used gun knowing that I can have them give me the green light before I buy it (if someone selling isn't willing to let a professional repair technician evaluate the gear, then they have something to hide), I might have to go with it. So I'm wondering where I should be looking for used deals? I doubt I'll be looking online if it isn't local, but would you say craigslist is worth browsing, or do I have to go to the fields and start asking around? And as for a reputable pre-owned tank dealer, this same shop gets its tanks tested before sale, so is that enough assurance that its going to be a good tank, or should I still avoid a used tank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by universal_dave View Post
CO2 always had a lot of "bang for the buck" because of the phase change...since the tank was holding liquid, it was *very* dense and worked for a lot of shots....but the downsides of CO2 are pretty severe. It's very temperature sensitive, you'll freeze your tank if you lay on the trigger and then *nothing* is working right, and there's any number of modern guns that I would be very reticent to put CO2 through.

HPA (High Pressure Air) has no state change...it's all gas. No real temperature sensitivity (technically there is, but it's really not something you can notice) and it will behave consistently no matter how you shoot until the tank runs dry.

This does mean, though, you'll need a lot more "volume". CO2 tanks rated themselves by ounces (7oz, 20oz). HPA tanks rate by cubic inches. A 13ci/3000 HPA tank is *roughly* analogous to a 7oz tank and a 48ci/3000 tank is *roughly* analogous to a 20oz tank....but in each case, since the CO2 is holding liquid (very dense), the CO2 will get more shots. If you get up to 4500 PSI tanks, you start getting volumes that will get you the same shot counts as CO2.
So basically, I'm going to be trading in the small size and low refill count of the CO2 can for the consistency and reduced wear on the gun of HPA? It seems like a fair trade off, I guess I'm just getting a little sticker shock since the cheapest HPA tank I've been able to find is $55 and from what I can tell is about as low end as you can find. I'm guessing that even if I can find a used tank the 68/4500 that was recommended to me by the local shops is going to set me back a lot of money.

Quote:
Originally Posted by universal_dave View Post
Constant refilling can be a PITA, and if you're really only managing a game or two average out of your tank there are any number of open play situations where you're going to run dry before it's convenient to refill again.
I don't mind refilling every game or two since the people I play with now seem like they are going to take a 10min break every game or two, but I really don't want to be in a long round and kill off my air before the end of the round. If I'm going to make the switch, which is looking more and more like a requirement, I will want a tank that will output a minimum of 500 rounds with whatever gun I choose so that I can play at least 3-4 rounds (or 1-2 long rounds) without having to walk off the field unmarked. Based on this standard, what size of tank will I need? Do I really need to get up into the range of 68/4500, or can I get away with a smaller / lower pressure tank?

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Originally Posted by lazarous View Post
I'd second the suggestion to up your budget to around $350... the Planet Eclipse Etha is excellent. It's so excellent I actually bought a second one to loan out to friends when they join me... and a number of folks are in the process of buying their own.

It's incredibly simple to maintain, has the same reg as PE's high-end tournament markers, and comes with a wicked parts and tool set... plus a hardshell carrying case.

I plan to use it as my main marker for the next 5 years, just like you!

ANSGear has air tanks incredibly cheap (thoughts forum?).

Buy a used electronic hopper off Craigs List. Upgrade when you're ready. I bought the Virtue Spire because it's almost indestructible (and I'm hard on my gear), but that's a heck of a jump in price.

I have two Tippy A5's, one of which was my marker of choice for over 5 years. The 2nd is my wife's. It takes me nearly 45 minutes to take one apart, clean, lube and put it all back together. It takes me 5 minutes to take apart, clean, lube and put my Etha back together. Guess which one I actually do regular maintenance on?

Anyway, just my two cents. I think you'll be able to find something that works for you... good luck and best wishes!

Lazarous
As I've said before, my budget is sort of fixed where it is. I could save for a while and get something better... hell I could get a brand new DM13 (used as example because the local people are pushing for a DM6.. I still know nothing specific about the gun) with a great barrel and a nice new tank if I waited until the summer, but I want a gun now, with the budget I have, and without way overshooting my level of play. That all being said, I understand that I'm limiting the level of gun I am getting by limiting the amount of money I am willing / able to spend. I tend to look at the increase in performance vs. cost as a curve a lot like this one and it seems that the apex of that curve is around $300-$500, with increasing cost below that giving a lot of extra benefit and increasing cost above that only giving smaller and smaller amounts of performance increase. Again, I'm still learning about all of the new tech and guns, so what I just said might be 100% inaccurate, but I also think that much more than my upper limit in spending is probably not going to net me the extra benefit to outweigh the added costs, at least at this point. If I go all googly-eyed for paintball for the next few years, then I could easily and happily save up to buy am $800-$1500 marker and love ever last 0.01% improvement in performance that such a gun would provide.

As for Tippmann, their move to the clamping body design has completely turned me off of them and I doubt I'll go back.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:14 PM #38
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Sorry for the double post, I reached the character cap and had to split up the replies. Unfortunately its hard to interact with multiple posters in a thread when you only have a little time each day to write replies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tippmannrocker90 View Post
Building a pump can be the most cost effective measure. I bought someone's package that included a prostock cocker for$100 that came with a tank and all stock pneus. Sold the tank and pneus for 50 and 50, bought a CCM pump kit for $80 which makes the total cost at $80. Pump kits can be found even cheaper (around $30) so if you are willing to shop around and work you can find any part you want for cockers. The online communities make it a ton easier also.

If you are set on an elecro I would suggest and ION. I shot one for 5 years and it never let me down, parts are everywhere and they are very consistent and fast shooters. You can find a nice ion for $100 which leaves plenty of space for upgrades such as hoppers, barrels, or tanks.

Also if you want to spend around $300 for the gun alone the Etek series can be found around that price on the BST section and they shoot very nice for what you pay. Several of my teammates shoot them and they are excellent for the price.
I did have a look at an ION, but they are now replaced by the Envy after GoG bought them, which is also in my price range to begin with, so it would make sense to buy new. As far as the Etek series, I've been told that I should avoid poppet valves like the plague for a lot of reasons, not the least of which is the idea that a lot of the guns using them are just really souped up Spyders, though I wouldn't put it past anyone to be biased when it comes to paintball so I have to take that advice with a grain of salt.

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Originally Posted by KYhillbilly View Post
In all honesty man you really need to do some more research. Your making assumptions on alot of stuff on incorrect info.

For example: "GOG is the new kid on the block"
GOG is basically just smart parts with a new name.

Also you think price is an indicator on how guns will shoot. The Axe is a mini with a different body and more features basically, such as tool less bolt removal. Just because it is more expensive doesnt mean it shoots better.

For the price range your looking at your not going to find a much better shooting gun than the SP-1 unless its used. The SP-1 is a solid spoolie and shoots great, I tried one before and only went with the Etek 3 because I wanted a poppit and I had to get the Etek used.

Let me repeat this- YOU ARE NOT GOING TO FIND A BETTER USED GUN FOR -$200 than the SP-1. It is not a blowback like a tippman or spyder it is a spoolie. Check the reviews. Only reason it is cheap is because theres a newer model and they must have found some of these in stockpile. There is no danger in replacement parts running out anytime soon.
Research is the reason I'm here looking for advice and opinions. I know I'm 15 years behind the game and have a lot of catching up to do, which is a big reason my opinions are not hard set right now and I'm allowing the information I'm getting to sway my position back and forth. Ultimately, its all going to come down to a combination of personal preference, spending limits, and a collection of information regarding speed, accuracy, and reliability for any gun I'm considering, but I do need to collect as much information as possible before even thinking about buying something, whether its new or used, $50 or $1500. That's also why I've been going back to the various pro-shops around town to use the techs / salespeople there as sounding boards for the information I've been getting here.

As for the SP-1, I haven't had a chance to look at one in person, which will be a requirement for any kind of purchase, but my thinking is if I can afford a gun with more features within my overall price cap of $300 I should probably lean in that direction. This goes back to my earlier description of the cost vs. performance graph. If I can move my starting point further up the steep part of the curve, then I'll be less likely to need more upgrades in the future.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:57 PM #39
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The SP-1 is basically a smart parts or GOG speedball gun in a mil-sim boddy. Similar to the ION its a budget spool. Unlike the old Ions it isn't a pain to dissassemble and work on.
As far as upgrades that would really help the SP-1 are a barrel, double trigger and better board.

Your probably going to get a barrel for any marker you get in that price range.
The double trigger is up to you if you think its something you need.
The board on the gun is fine for what you say you want.

You mentioned your thinking about getting used now, my suggestion would be the Etek3 LT if thats what your thinking. I recently was looking for an upgrade myself and had similar goals as you. I went with the Etek 3 LT for a couple reasons

-Its a poppit vs a spool which means it requires less maintenance and is more reliable than a spool, not that spools cant be reliable if maintained properly but I wanted some thing I could depend on
-The Etek 4 just came out so there was a price drop but parts are still easy to find because its such a popular marker, but its not an issue because the marker comes with a ton of replacement orings and small parts in case something breaks down
-I went with the Etek LT vs Etek AM because its cheaper and the advantages of the AM really werent important to me-mainly it can take the emmortal board and body can be customized more, your not really sacrificing durability by getting the LT
-You dont need any upgrades, it has a good feedneck, solid stock barrel if you dont mind overboring, great board, I liked the trigger

Whoever said a poppit is a souped up Spyder is an idiot. The Axe, Ego and Bob Long guns for example are some the most popular guns in paintball and used by many top pros and they are poppits. What do you think is more likely the pros know what they are doing or they are making a huge mistake. The Etek is pretty much a more economical budget Ego. You can get the Etek 3 LT for 300 or less pretty easy now on ebay, the top rated sellers on ebay are going to give you some security for the most part for piece in mind that you arent getting ripped off.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:05 PM #40
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Im going to add my chime to the Sp1 as well. I own the GoG G1 with blackheart board. The non BHB version is $250. Thats what the $130 sp1 is equal to, the $250 g1. From my understanding these guns have the same reg as the Luxe, a $1200+ gun... The difference between g1 and sp1 is mostly cosmetic. The G1 comes with (that the sp1 doesnt), a longer barrel, stainless steel screws, hard carrying case, adjustable feed neck and the real biggest difference, break beam eyes for anti chop. As well as the board if you bought that version like me. All of these can even be upgraded for the Sp1. Youre not going to get a better marker IMO in the sub 300 new. That still leaves you with plenty of money for a barrel, hopper, etc.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:05 PM #41
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Originally Posted by AviatorMan View Post
So basically, I'm going to be trading in the small size and low refill count of the CO2 can for the consistency and reduced wear on the gun of HPA? It seems like a fair trade off, I guess I'm just getting a little sticker shock since the cheapest HPA tank I've been able to find is $55 and from what I can tell is about as low end as you can find. I'm guessing that even if I can find a used tank the 68/4500 that was recommended to me by the local shops is going to set me back a lot of money.
Everybody weighs the benefits differently, for me, the #1 benefit was that you can no longer "freeze your tank". Getting in a tough spot and having your gun basically fold on you can really harsh your day.

Quote:
I don't mind refilling every game or two since the people I play with now seem like they are going to take a 10min break every game or two, but I really don't want to be in a long round and kill off my air before the end of the round. If I'm going to make the switch, which is looking more and more like a requirement, I will want a tank that will output a minimum of 500 rounds with whatever gun I choose so that I can play at least 3-4 rounds (or 1-2 long rounds) without having to walk off the field unmarked. Based on this standard, what size of tank will I need? Do I really need to get up into the range of 68/4500, or can I get away with a smaller / lower pressure tank?
The 48ci/3000 tank should be able to get maybe 400 shots off almost any gun...more if you get one that's reasonably efficient.

68ci/4500 is basically the gold standard size as about the largest tank that most folks generally feel comfortable mounted on their gun (although the new Ninja 77ci/4500 Dura may up that a bit if it really catches on). If you can live with only 400 shots before a fill, you don't *need* the bigger tank...it just makes your day more flexible.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:14 PM #42
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The only upgrades that would really help the SP-1 are a barrel, double trigger and better board.

Your probably going to get a barrel for any marker you get in that price range.
The double trigger is up to you if you think its something you need.
The board on the gun is fine for what you say you want.

You mentioned your thinking about getting used now, my suggestion would be the Etek3 LT if thats what your thinking. I recently was looking for an upgrade myself and had similar goals as you. I went with the Etek 3 LT for a couple reasons

-Its a poppit vs a spool which means it requires less maintenance and is more reliable than a spool, not that spools cant be reliable if maintained properly but I wanted some thing I could depend on
-The Etek 4 just came out so there was a price drop but parts are still easy to find because its such a popular marker and many parts on the Etek 4 fit it, but its not an issue because the marker comes with a ton of replacement orings and small parts in case something breaks down
-I went with the Etek LT vs Etek AM because its cheaper and the advantages of the AM really werent important to me-mainly it can take the emmortal board and body can be customized more, your not really sacrificing durability by getting the LT
-You dont need any upgrades, it has a good feedneck, solid stock barrel if you dont mind overboring, great board, I liked the trigger

You can get the Etek 3 LT for 300 or less pretty easy now on ebay, the top rated sellers on ebay are going to give you some security for the most part for piece in mind that you arent getting ripped off.
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