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Old 11-22-2012, 09:44 AM #1
psycho91
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clicky pen full auto mod

Does it actually work or does the loader not keep up with it
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:20 AM #2
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The clicky pen mod is simply replacing the trigger spring with a clicky pen spring to lighten the trigger pull. With a response trigger installed it helps find the sweet spot for the rt...but by no means makes the marker full auto"
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:14 PM #3
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Theres a lot more behind a mechanical full auto than just replacing a spring.
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:43 PM #4
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I know this, but will it actually shoot paint with the auto mod
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:17 PM #5
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Sure but it's probably gonna chop paint because it isn't a controlled full stroke.
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:58 PM #6
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Ok I was just curious
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:14 PM #7
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Youre better off Egripping or dropping in an R/T.
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Old 11-23-2012, 12:55 AM #8
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I'm probably going to get some if those techt trigger pin sets and change the trigger springs and see about lightening the sear spring some how, then Polish the receivers, instal a techt hammer and spring kit and be done with it
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:28 AM #9
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I wouldnt bother with the hammer and spring kit. Waste of cash.

What are you trying to do?
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:51 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho91 View Post
I'm probably going to get some if those techt trigger pin sets and change the trigger springs and see about lightening the sear spring some how, then Polish the receivers, instal a techt hammer and spring kit and be done with it
I'd start with the polish and replacing the trigger spring. That's free and you'll probably love it. Then you can see about spending some actual money on internals but it's still gonna be a loud blowback with kick.
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:11 AM #11
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Yes but there's always room for improvement, so why is the hammer and spring kit not worth it
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:27 AM #12
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The spring kit is actually pretty nice to have if it's the one that comes with new main springs and trigger/sear springs because you can dial your gun in a little bit without using the stock screw so much. The hammer I wouldn't bother with because you need the mass to get your desired velocity and the gun is going to kick either way.
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:53 AM #13
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Could I get a link to a kit that has all those springs, including the sear spring
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:06 PM #14
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Not handy. It's called the Madman kit though and it used to be widely available. I may still have the trigger and sear spring for the old style gun somewhere.
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:45 PM #15
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I found it on madman website, any other advice would be greatly appreciated, any other parts or mods not worth getting/doing
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:36 PM #16
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Nothing internal to start with. New barrel for sure. Rear velocity adapter if you can find one.
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:03 PM #17
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I was already looking at getting one, what makes them worth it
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:15 PM #18
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You dont have to fiddle with your FVA (the allen head stuck in the powertube). Only problem is you cant use a stock unless you get one that has one built in.

And an RVA basically nullifies your spring kit, so go with one or the other but not both.
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:56 PM #19
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I would choose the spring kit
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:27 PM #20
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psycho, also, on the a5, the problem with it cycling too fast, is that the cyclone cant always keep up, with how the fast the gun can shoot electronically. The Cyclone typically tops off at around 30-32 bps, that is with pretty much stock internals, and a crap load of accessories on just the cyclone to get it to cycle. Are you planning on Egripping it, or RT-ing it? (sorry if that was already answered)
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