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Old 11-11-2012, 02:03 PM #1
jojo750
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shocker power issue

picked up a 05 dynasty shocker w/ccm frame.
the nite i got it in, aired it up, cut it ON, and dry fired it. no leaks.
(here was my 1st mistake). decided to take frame off and clean the dried paint that previous owner neglected to wipe off for a few weeks. when i reassembled everything, board wouldnt cut ON. so i figured i had mashed the power button on the upper board.
bought a used parker noid, got it in this past tuesday. installed it. reassembled everything. cut the marker ON, aired it up. no leaks and it fired fine.
went ahead and took it out of NXL mode. checked other settings.
decided friday nite to service the max-flo inline reg (2nd mistake). got it apart, and back together. go to cut the marker ON, and now it wont cut ON again.
what are the chances that it is the upper board again? could it be the connection cable from the upper/lower board possibly?
i noticed the battery connection wire was pinched, so i had the local shop sauter (sp) a new battery harness in.
i really dont want to have to buy another noid. i have emailed shockerrepair.com as well as pm'd him. but wanted to ask if there is anything else i can try. i have tried connecting the upper and lower board outside of the frame, but it wont cut on at all.
thanks for any info.

edit: also put a new battery in (twice).
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:02 PM #2
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Are you sure your power button is making contact? You may have the frame seated too far forward.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:40 PM #3
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the frame doesnt really have much play. but it worked when i installed the 2nd noid. and i didnt touch the frame again when i went to air it up after servicing the reg.
even with the frame off the body, and the wire connected to the upper and lower board, pushing the power button isnt doing anything.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:53 PM #4
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Is there any upper board screw damage?
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:01 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The mielke way View Post
Is there any upper board screw damage?
i looked at both upper boards, and didnt see anything that stuck out as damage.
didnt think the screws hit the board, but that could be a possibility.
would you be able to actually see the damage for the damage to occur?
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:04 PM #6
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There is a lead fairly close to the edge of the board that would be visibly broken by the screw pushing into the side of the board - should be very visible.

It could be a bent prong on the harness, or sloppy soldering from the shop. It's really hard to say.
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:08 PM #7
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definitely nothing visible.
could be the soldering. but on 2 different noids? what are the chances...
frustrating is the name of this shocker.
one day, im going to put some paint thru it....
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:01 PM #8
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Probably not - it could be the harness itself. I've received a faulty one NIB before.
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:34 PM #9
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One way to check the harrness is to flip it over. If you flip it and it turns on but something elses like the noid or eyes aren't working then you need a new harness. But in any case having a new harness is not a bad thing since you can get one for like $5 instead of just assuming its a bad noid an spending $50+ on a new one.

Also take a look at the button on the upper board and check to see if the little nub is missing.
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:41 PM #10
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I had a new battery harness wired in last nite. Still nothing
And the little button is still on both noids.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:06 PM #11
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I wasnt reffering to the battery harness. I was reffering to the main harness. Unplug it from both boards and flip it over so the plug that was in the upper is now in the lower then try it. With 8 (if I rember right) wires in that harness if you flip it you would be moving the trouble wire/wires to a different circuit which may allow to atleast turn on but something else like the noid or eyes may not work now. Then you atleast know for sure if its a bad main harness.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:09 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim4130 View Post
I wasnt reffering to the battery harness. I was reffering to the main harness. Unplug it from both boards and flip it over so the plug that was in the upper is now in the lower then try it. With 8 (if I rember right) wires in that harness if you flip it you would be moving the trouble wire/wires to a different circuit which may allow to atleast turn on but something else like the noid or eyes may not work now. Then you atleast know for sure if its a bad main harness.
gotcha. will try flipping that later.
so its possible that when i do that, it may cut ON, but then the eyes wont work?


EDIT: and in case i havent said it yet, THANK YOU for the info provided. appreciate the help from everyone.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:12 PM #13
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Exactly. Its just a simple way to check the harness. But if it has bad wires all around then flipping wont tell you much if anything but that doesnt ussualy happen.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:43 PM #14
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flipping the wire didnt do anything. but upon closer inspection, i found on both upper boards, small damage from the grip screws going too far in.
has these little panel grips on the ccm frame, and i mustve went too far in on both noids and caused the damage....

excuse me while i peruse the b/s/t section again for another noid.
hopefully, putting the hogue wraparound grips will help with this issue now that i have seen the damage... very small, but looking between noid and upper board, i can see a piece that is "flaking" off from screw pushing in.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:59 PM #15
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The screw damage can be repaired. Fishballer06 (shockerrepair.com) gisgo09 and myself to name a few could all repair that for you and it would be a fraction of the cost of a new noid. Theres a tutorial on zdspb.com aswell if you'd like to try and do it yourself.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:15 PM #16
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You don't need to switch grips if you use shorter screws on top, or file down the ones you have. At least you have figured out your problem. And I bet that will be the last time you have grip screw damage. Get it fixed and have fun.
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