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Old 10-30-2012, 09:09 PM #22
trancer23
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Pmr Best option

Quote:
Originally Posted by kill-n-spree View Post
I would go to ballistic like Doc said.Make sure you save the old pack so you can unsolder the negative tab to solder on to the bey pack. I have bought 10-11 packs off them and they last forever on a charge. You already have a working board and charger, no sense de-valuing your LCD buy modding it to fit a pmr board.That is something you do when you want to cheap out. I wouldn't buy a Angel with a PMR board in it.
Pmr conversion does not require any permanent mods
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:15 PM #23
sledneckforlife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trancer23

Pmr conversion does not require any permanent mods
It seems like its personal opinion not about overall function. There are very few purists on these boards, so that can't be the reason either. I like the pmr mod because it isn't drilling rare bodies and it isn't permanently milling the frames or paying an arm and a leg for battery's and boards. Oh, and the pmr mod is tourney legal!!
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:38 PM #24
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I come from the old school. If I am going to fix something , I fix it right. Hey already has a working board and charger so why wouldn't he spend 25 bucks on a new pack instead of replacing the board? I understand the pmr board is a good option for somebody short on resources.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:49 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kill-n-spree
I come from the old school. If I am going to fix something , I fix it right. Hey already has a working board and charger so why wouldn't he spend 25 bucks on a new pack instead of replacing the board? I understand the pmr board is a good option for somebody short on resources.
Short on resources?? G'head and find all the pieces you need to put a pmr in a LCD?? Resources my ***!! I have plenty of connects to put together a dozen LCD guns- point is, people are tired of putting in an order for a custom battery pack - isn't stock last time I checked- and being jacked for a working board cause someone hoardes em until they decide its time or they are worthy. Elitist pricks unite on this site to make it difficult for the average joe to put a gun like the angel together. He got lucky so far with a working board, but if you want a working battery that WDP made and not some battery r us company then it's back to hoping and praying.

Trying to give someone a option besides battery packs and outdated boards. The virtue pmr rail is new technology that allows for a LCD to be used in tourneys without question and without that " is my gun going to die on me " thought process.

Clearly you have resources , why don't you offer him some better WDP built options???

And when I fix something it works without a "hopefully it doesn't drop a cell or the pixels don't burn out" stock sucks and you know it.....unless your against upgrades, which is funny cause your curators corner is loaded with non stock options and private label items, again not WDP stock.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:16 PM #26
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The battery packs you can have made are way better then the cells that come in a stock pack.
I am glad people have an option with the PMR boards. The only reason I have the boards I do is because if I have only had two boards go bad on me. One is a AF 05 Speed board and a stock LCD board. I have never had any pixels die either. I think they die from getting too hot, sitting in the direct sun or trunk of a car.The stock boards pop up on MCB,PBN and Ebay all the time. I know it could take longer to find then a PMR board, but imo it is worth it. I have alot vested with many of the 20 Angels I currently own and shoot. I bought at least half of them new with the cheapest price around 1400.00 a pop. Your comment about "stock sucks", I don't share the same feeling. I have never had any of the problems most people have had or ***** about and have been a customer since day one. Hell I hear people cry about the COPS, Sensi system and to this day I have all the stock pads in all my IR3's and Speed and they still work perfect. The stock batteries need to be replaced because of there age, not because they sucked.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:27 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kill-n-spree
The battery packs you can have made are way better then the cells that come in a stock pack.
I am glad people have an option with the PMR boards. The only reason I have the boards I do is because if I have only had two boards go bad on me. One is a AF 05 Speed board and a stock LCD board. I have never had any pixels die either. I think they die from getting too hot, sitting in the direct sun or trunk of a car.The stock boards pop up on MCB,PBN and Ebay all the time. I know it could take longer to find then a PMR board, but imo it is worth it. I have alot vested with many of the 20 Angels I currently own and shoot. I bought at least half of them new with the cheapest price around 1400.00 a pop. Your comment about "stock sucks", I don't share the same feeling. I have never had any of the problems most people have had or ***** about and have been a customer since day one. Hell I hear people cry about the COPS, Sensi system and to this day I have all the stock pads in all my IR3's and Speed and they still work perfect. The stock batteries need to be replaced because of there age, not because they sucked.
Alot of neglect - I cannot remember buying an angel from someone on pbn that came cleaned other than a few. People beat these guns an then freak when they **** the bed. The only reason I pmr lcds is simple: people want simplicity. They are used to it by now with other manufacturers. I personally use pmr mod lcds so I can use the guns with ought worry of doing something to the stock board or battery . I have bad luck. I like virtue, tadao and lucky boards , so for me stock just isn't in the cards right now.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:41 PM #28
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Oh I have seen it all with Angels. I have fixed all the Angels for my two local PB shops for years. I have seen guns where people used super glue on grip frame screws, lpr caps. I saw a gun that had the frame screwed to the body with self tapping sheet metal screws. More then half I have seen had zero shims in lpr because the idiots wanted to tune the gun without the gauges.
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:49 AM #29
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Your ideology is exactly what i aim for, Kill-N...

You are an OG good sir Keep up the good fight!
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:47 AM #30
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As far as battery packs, the one I linked to at BallisticBattery is an "off the shelf" product, ready to install (which is why it is slightly more expensive than going the DIY or local RC store route). Definitely not difficult to track down, and higher capacity than the original WDP battery. They sell both 4 and 5 cell ones:

http://www.ballisticbatteries.com/St...owLarge=Tr ue

http://www.ballisticbatteries.com/St...owLarge=Tr ue

Nothing wrong with either option as far as stock vs. PMR. Just depends on your preference. A lot of people who want these older Angels want them for nostalgia and like to keep things stock. The PMR is a great option for modernizing the gun for tourneys and whatnot, especially at the price. It's nice to have an option that won't cost as much as the gun is worth if you need to get it running. I was hoping the 7th Element board would serve a similar function, but I'm losing hope that it will ever come to market.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:24 AM #31
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OK I got the back plate of my LCD off now how do I get the battery to come out? It's down in there pretty far and I don't want to tug wires if that isn't the way to do it.

Advice?
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:26 AM #32
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The battery will actually come out the front. Unplug the wires, remove the front end plug, tilt the gun forward, push from the back side of the gun with a squeegee or hex key if you need to, then slowly remove it, taking care not to snag the wires.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:39 AM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.strangelove View Post
The battery will actually come out the front. Unplug the wires, remove the front end plug, tilt the gun forward, push from the back side of the gun with a squeegee or hex key if you need to, then slowly remove it, taking care not to snag the wires.

Ahh very good.

How do you unplug the wires from the switch? Gently pulling?

Thanks for your patience.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:42 AM #34
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I also notice there are two sets of wires. How do you disconnect the other set?
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:42 AM #35
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I also notice there are two sets of wires. How do you disconnect the other set?
Anyone with some guidance on this?
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:51 AM #36
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The wires from the switch do not "unplug". You can, however, unscrew the switch from the switch well in the backplate. Lefty loosy, righty tighty.

If the other set of wires you're referring to are the solenoid wires, just unplug them and pull them out through the back plate if they are getting tangled with the battery wires.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:33 AM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket Dawg

Anyone with some guidance on this?
I like the fact your learning and asking questions. Doc is a living breathing how to on angels.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:51 PM #38
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Originally Posted by dr.strangelove View Post
The wires from the switch do not "unplug". You can, however, unscrew the switch from the switch well in the backplate. Lefty loosy, righty tighty.

If the other set of wires you're referring to are the solenoid wires, just unplug them and pull them out through the back plate if they are getting tangled with the battery wires.
How do you unplug the solenoid wires?

I don't even see a plug? Maybe I'm not looking hard enough.

Thanks Doc.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:09 AM #39
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The solenoid wires are red and black and connect to a 2-pin white plastic molex-type plug. If you've got grey and white wires coming into the frame, those are for the intellifeed and should also terminate to the exact same type of 2-pin white plastic molex plug that the solenoid uses. And they can all be removed the same way - by pulling them out of the bottom tube after removing the back plate. That's the extent of the wires you should have. If you have some other type of wires that are unattached to a connector of some kind, post up some pics so we can try to figure out what they are.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:50 AM #40
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Ok so to replace the battery I unscrew the toggle switch. The wires from the toggle switch go where? The solenoid or maybe the board? In order to replace the battery I have to also pull the connector that those wires from the toggle switch go to.

Lots of questions about something as simple as a battery I know.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:29 AM #41
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The switch is just inline with the battery and the battery plug. The wires will stay attached to the switch and to the battery - the entire assembly will come out the front. Unscrew the toggle switch from the back plate. Unplug the battery plug from the board and pull those wires out the rear of the gun. Then remove the front end cap and tilt the gun forward, pushing from the back with a hex key or something similar if necessary, and carefully pull the battery out the front, making sure not to snag the wires.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:38 AM #42
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The switch is just inline with the battery and the battery plug. The wires will stay attached to the switch and to the battery - the entire assembly will come out the front. Unscrew the toggle switch from the back plate. Unplug the battery plug from the board and pull those wires out the rear of the gun. Then remove the front end cap and tilt the gun forward, pushing from the back with a hex key or something similar if necessary, and carefully pull the battery out the front, making sure not to snag the wires.

Ah there we go. I didn't realize I need to disconnect the battery wire from the board. Now that you say it it seems obvious.

Thanks for taking the time to explain all this!
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