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Old 03-11-2016, 10:39 PM #1
510waffles
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More anodizing questions and safety

Hey yall, ive anodized 20 or so parts now, and have gotten a couple good results, but would like to see better.


I have a couple anodized parts that were bead blasted, sadly, the bead blast that i used was contaminated with steel, leaving a pitted surface





I want to etch it out to raw aluminum with sodium hydroxide, the anno thickness is somwhere between .0005 and .00075in. How long should i leave it in there for to etch to raw aluminum? Im just looking for a good guess.

Also, if i had a brand new, just off the mill machined part, how long should i leave it in the sodium hydroxide for a satin finish part? I dont want to leave it too long and have it start attacking my parts.


Lastly, I have bought fume suppressant from caswell, however I am getting a smell and have already started wearing a mask after using the product. When the parts are in the anno bath, there is a layer of foam which is supposed to suppress the fumes, but i feel like it has made it worse. If you guys have any insight that would be great.

fume suppressant link

http://www.caswellplating.com/anodiz...t-4-fl-oz.html
Thanks!
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:00 PM #2
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:39 PM #3
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Fume suppressants rarely work as they should. To effectively prevent fume inhalation you will most definitely need proper ventilation.

Parts or your problem with the blasting could be your pressure. Media of any kind can imbed into the aluminum if there is too much pressure behind it. I usually use virgin glass bead at about 60psi or less. Keep the part a decent distance from the gun.

Surface finish is hard to achieve chemically. You can use the sodium hydroxide to strip the part but you are better off using abrasive finishing techniques to achieve a nice finishing.

Good Luck!
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Old 04-02-2016, 04:27 PM #4
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anyone have anything to add for the etching?
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Old 04-06-2016, 01:10 PM #5
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I agree with oldschool. You can strip using sodium hydroxide (about 5 min, depending on temp), but to get an even matte finish, you need to media blast. I use beads at about 40-50 psi to get a matte finish that retains some sheen, and I use soda (basically baking soda) to get a very matte finish.

See below:

Some shine retained:


More of a flat look:
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:39 AM #6
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If it's been anodised after blasting then any steel should have been dissolved during the anodising process.
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:34 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfape View Post
I agree with oldschool. You can strip using sodium hydroxide (about 5 min, depending on temp), but to get an even matte finish, you need to media blast. I use beads at about 40-50 psi to get a matte finish that retains some sheen, and I use soda (basically baking soda) to get a very matte finish.

See below:

Some shine retained:


More of a flat look:
So your the one that anodized that gun..........

Edit, I run Glass at 24 psi, just FYI. Satiny smooth, like luxe. The sample you shown, pressure too high.
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:15 PM #8
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24psi huh? Wow, that's low... Doesn't stuff blasted at too high a pressure typically end up with a blotchy look? I wonder if I'm making up for the higher pressure by holding the gun further back... I'll PM you.
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Old 05-02-2016, 02:30 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfape View Post
24psi huh? Wow, that's low... Doesn't stuff blasted at too high a pressure typically end up with a blotchy look? I wonder if I'm making up for the higher pressure by holding the gun further back... I'll PM you.

The picture in the first post shows "burn" from the blaster. Most anodizers use 80 grit precision ground glass beads about 6 inches from the part at 40 psi. Even sweeps across the part, never stop in the middle of the part for anything.
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Old 05-02-2016, 03:27 PM #10
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That's roughly what I run (and I've never had any issues), but it sounds like Mario is running even lower. I generally have the gun a little further away than 6 inches, so that could have something to do with it. It's all about impact energy, after all....
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:16 PM #11
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24 psi. Matte back, gloss face. Hand polished, not machine.
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