[oldmanian]

So I've got a 1.5 that came with the normal 1.0 core.I've shot about 6 cases total through it and I am the original owner (I was on a PE sponsored team so was using other guns). Over time I have collected both the full pooty setup and the DLX 2.0 core. I am running Dwell at 17,( FSDO -8MS) FT in, and manifold in three turns.

Here is the oddity, my 1.0 core shoots crazy nice in that situation. This is despite the fact that the o-rings are TIGHT. I've watched the pooty video on o-rings and my 1.0 core would seems to be way too tight, but it shoots great.

If I leave the settings the same and drop in the 2.0 DLX core, it just puffs, I have to up the dwell to 20 and then it will work. I also took the time to fit the o-rings on the core, and it is still not shooting as nice as my 1.0 core.

Now, the pooty core just puffs at the 1.0 setting despite me spending some significant time on getting o-ring fitment that I think is good. I have yet to get good cycles out of the pooty core (but I need to because I am selling it and I can't sell a core that doesn't work).

I have yet to shoot the marker for a full day with the 2.0 core so I am not sure about efficiency. So I could be leaking somewhere, but I am just guessing that is not the case.

So I guess I am left with the following questions:
1 - To those in the know, do you think that the Pooty video is a good example on O-Ring fitment, because I can not seem to replicate his success with the fitment shown the way it is in his video.

2 - Can anyone think of any reason why going from a 1.0 core to either the Pooty or the DLX 2.0 core would require an INCREASE in dwell?

3 - Anybody out there have this (type) of issue?

Thanks in advance for the help.

[digital sol]

Originally Posted by oldmanian

So I've got a 1.5 that came with the normal 1.0 core. Over time I have collected both the full pooty setup and the DLX 2.0 core. I am running Dwell at 17,( FSDO -8MS) FT in, and manifold in three turns.

Here is the oddity, my 1.0 core shoots crazy nice in that situation. this is despite the fact that the o-rings are TIGHT. I've watched the pooty video on o-rings and my 1.0 core would seems to be way too tight, but it shoots great.

If I leave the settings the same and drop in the 2.0 DLX core, it just puffs, I have to up the dwell to 20 and then it will work. I also took the time to fit the o-rings on the core, and it is still not shooting as nice as my 1.0 core.

Now, the pooty core just puffs at the 1.0 setting despite me spending some significant time on o-ring fitment which I think is good. I have yet to get good cycles out of the pooty core (but I ned to because I am selling it and I can't sell a core that doesn't work).

I have yet to shoot the marker for a full day with the 2.0 core so I am not sure about efficiency. So I could be leaking somewhere, but I am just guessing that is not the case.

So I guess I am left with the following questions:
1 - To those in the know, do you think that the Pooty video is a good example on O-Ring fitment, because I can not seem to replicate his success with the fitment shown the way it is in his video.

2 - Can anyone think of any reason why going from a 1.0 core to either the pooty or the 2.0 core would require an INCREASE in dwell?

3 - Anybody out there have this (type) of issue?

Thanks in advance for the help.

In my experience a tighter seal on the bolt within the firing can has worked better if your using the ft screw. With the ft installed I am able to get clean healthy cycles with the Fsdo at 0 and dwell of 14 on a dlx 2.0 can with a rhino spring. If I switch to a Ndz can where the bolt actually guides smoother 'less tight' it will puff or have quite a bit of Fsdo until the ft is removed. Even if I move the orings from the 2.0 can to the Ndz can I do not get the same healthy cycles at lower settings.

Which Ndz version can are you running? Rumor has it the v1 cans tolerances were off however it's said that the v2 cans are mirrored from the 2.0 cans.

In my experience at least while using the ft screw installed I've had better results with a tight fitting can. I'd still use the 2.0 so you can drop your operating pressure a tad more from the increased volume but try some tight fitting orings and retest.

People will probably argue this because it dosnt make common sense why it would cycle better with more friction however I can tell you I spent alot of time trying different combinations between cans, bolts, ft in, ft out and oring fitment and with the ft in the tighter can has always been better and more consistent results. I'm writing this from my phone so I won't go into further details but ill get some documentation together once I have a barrel and reg pressure tester to track results.

[G00DFELLA]

i was messing with my 2.0 and stock core. when i screwed the manifold in more then 2 turns i got puffs. try only turning the mainfold in 1-1.5 turns and see if thats better

[oldmanian]

Originally Posted by digital sol

In my experience a tighter seal on the bolt within the firing can has worked better if your using the ft screw. With the ft installed I am able to get clean healthy cycles with the Fsdo at 0 and dwell of 14 on a dlx 2.0 can with a rhino spring. If I switch to a Ndz can where the bolt actually guides smoother 'less tight' it will puff or have quite a bit of Fsdo until the ft is removed. Even if I move the orings from the 2.0 can to the Ndz can I do not get the same healthy cycles at lower settings.
.....
In my experience at least while using the ft screw installed I've had better results with a tight fitting can. I'd still use the 2.0 so you can drop your operating pressure a tad more from the increased volume but try some tight fitting orings and retest...
People will probably argue this because it dosnt make common sense why it would cycle better with more friction however I can tell you I spent alot of time trying different combinations between cans, bolts, ft in, ft out and oring fitment and with the ft in the tighter can has always been better and more consistent results. I'm writing this from my phone so I won't go into further details but ill get some documentation together once I have a barrel and reg pressure tester to track results....

Ok. That is about what I have come across. I've swapped parts between the three and the stock 1.0 core is still able to do things the sprung cores can't and the O-rings on it are ones that it would appear are unusably (word?) tight. I like having the FT in and I don't want to give that up, so maybe back to the drawing board and tighten up all the O-rings on the pooty core....

Originally Posted by digital sol

.....Which Ndz version can are you running? Rumor has it the v1 cans tolerances were off however it's said that the v2 cans are mirrored from the 2.0 cans.....

Relatively certain that I've got the V.1 can and I've debated just getting a 2.0 can to match up with the set. Whether NDZ fixed their tolerance issue or not, I am hard pressed to find a reason to use anything over the DLX 2.0 can as it make the o-ring swaps easy enough.

Question to you, with the FT in and all the o-rings really tight, did you have any effect on efficiency?

[oldmanian]

Originally Posted by G00DFELLA

i was messing with my 2.0 and stock core. when i screwed the manifold in more then 2 turns i got puffs. try only turning the mainfold in 1-1.5 turns and see if thats better

hmmm.... Feather touch is the front stroke of the bolt speed and Manifold is the rear stroke.....hmm so I can see maybe the manifold causing issues with a sprung bolt as if you restrict the air and slow the bolt down enough, it won't properly overcome the spring and re-seat in preperation for a full cycle... but that seems like a strecth.

Again thank you for the advice and I will try it.

Thanks.

[5 cross your lip]

i run my luxe with FT out manifold 1 1/2 turns in...in cold weather i run a 16ms dwell fsdo of 8ms...i use this set up for my pooty and 2.0 core with out any problems...you can drop the dwell settings when it warms up

[ROCKNROLLA]

My settings with the pooty core are
ft out
manifold screw 2 turns in from flush
dwell 10
fsdo 0
never have any issues.
I tried running the pooty core with the ft in one time and it didnt like that so I would suggest taking your FT out when using the pooty core.

[oldmanian]

Hmm... Seems relatively consistent that the pooty core does not like the feather touch in. I really don't understand why that would be, but I will give it a shot.

[digital sol]

Originally Posted by oldmanian

Hmm... Seems relatively consistent that the pooty core does not like the feather touch in. I really don't understand why that would be, but I will give it a shot.

It's not the core it's the v1 Ndz cans. I could talk all day about settings and tuning for a luxe with the ft out, that's the easy way out. Of course it will fire easier with the ft out but you wanted to use the ft and enjoy the smoothness the gun was designed for.

-install 2.0 can
-test fit orings and make sure they fit right like your 1.0 setup
-also could move the orings from 1.0 can to 2.0 can and check
-keep dwell where it was with the 1.0 can setup
-bottom out the reg and air her up, raise the reg pressure while firing till you hit 300fps....
-after this if you have clean cycles then you can start lowering dwell or Fsdo if wanted at the chrono

There is no point in buying a Ndz v2 can if you have a factory 2.0 can. The orings are plenty easy to replace in the 2.0 can.

Comparing settings between an ft installed vs ft out setup is worthless. There will always be differences, fact remains even with the ft out if your required to run a dwell higher than 16 or in my experience an Fsdo at all your orings are not broken in or fitted properly.

Also why so set on using te Ndz can over the 2.0 can? There will be little to no difference in volume size and the 2.0 can will allow you to use the ft screw so long as you run tighter o rings. If your going to run the Ndz v1 can with the ft in your going to spend a day trying to get the orings tight enough to work. Been there...done that. If you want to use the ft screw and your on a v1 can give up that idea and use the 2.0 can. There is no point not to.

[oldmanian]

Originally Posted by digital sol

...Also why so set on using the Ndz can over the 2.0 can? There will be little to no difference in volume size and the 2.0 can will allow you to use the ft screw so long as you run tighter o rings. If your going to run the Ndz v1 can with the ft in your going to spend a day trying to get the orings tight enough to work. Been there...done that. If you want to use the ft screw and your on a v1 can give up that idea and use the 2.0 can. There is no point not to.

Sorry if I was unclear. I want to use the DLX 2.0 can, I'm over the NDZ parts. As for the pooty core, I understand that the problem there is likely the NDZ can. But I am still at a loss as to why I get the puffing on the DLX 2.0 core when my stock core cycles fine. I would have liked to have the advantage of the sprung core and increased volume of the DLX 2.0 core but it still wants to fight me. I will try swapping over the can and then mess with the o-rings, only problem is that I've been puffing so long with the marker and tried so many iterations, that I am now low on air.
3

[digital sol]

Originally Posted by oldmanian

Sorry if I was unclear. I want to use the DLX 2.0 can, I'm over the NDZ parts. As for the pooty core, I understand that the problem there is likely the NDZ can. But I am still at a loss as to why I get the puffing on the DLX 2.0 core when my stock core cycles fine. I would have liked to have the advantage of the sprung core and increased volume of the DLX 2.0 core but it still wants to fight me. I will try swapping over the can and then mess with the o-rings, only problem is that I've been puffing so long with the marker and tried so many iterations, that I am now low on air.
3

O ok gotcha. With your combination of parts id running the following

-2.0 can
-pooty bolt guide w/rhino spring
-bolt of your choice

Get those o-rings to fit tight like they did on your 1.0 can or swap the 1.0 can orings over to the 2.0 can & see how that treats ya. The ndz v1 can does work fine but in my experience only with the FT out.

Sounds good, be sure to report back with your results once you get more air to test with.

[ROCKNROLLA]

I run the v2 can and still don't run with the FT in. I have a 2.0 luxe and can tell you the full pooty core with v2 can and ft out is just a smooth as my 2.0 core with ft in.

[MaSsAcRe251]

Is there a way to tell the differences between the v1 and v2 NDZ cans?

[oldmanian]

Originally Posted by MaSsAcRe251

Is there a way to tell the differences between the v1 and v2 NDZ cans?

I am not aware of a way.

So I now have 4 full cores.
-Original Pooty Core
-Stock 1.0 core.
-Stock 2.0 core with v.1 bolt
-Pooty modded 2.0 core with the guide and bolt mod to accept the spring.

I am going to play tomorrow and run the stock 1.0 bolt and guide with the 2.0 can as that seems to work, and I will get air so I can do some tinkering next week. I really think that the sprung bolts are not compatible with the FT in as it seems like a lot of people are having the same issue as I am and the solution is always to run the FT out.

[xwiredx]

Oldmanian,
Any updates? I've been following this thread from the beginning to learn.


Digital Sol,
Any chance you could describe the "tight" oring fit you're talking about to use the FT with the 2.0 can? Just curious how it compares to the pooty video and I realize its hard to describe in text.

Thanks!

[oldmanian]

Originally Posted by xwiredx

Oldmanian,
Any updates? I've been following this thread from the beginning to learn. ...

Ran the stock 1.0 core with a 2.0 can all day last sunday with the FT in and it was great. I also filled my tanks to do some testing which I will do tomorrow or the next day and I will post up with what I learn/observe. I did sell the pooty core, so I no longer have that, but to me the results with the 2.0 core should be a good approximation of how the pooty core would act.