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Old 03-29-2012, 01:26 AM #1
YeloSno
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Gun Maintenance: How Often? How Much?

More info on my website (look under my username as I can't plug it here *ahem*)

I'm using this as a reference thread to link to anyone with any maintenance related questions.




Now, to start things off, EVERY GUN REQUIRES MAINTENANCE! EVERY MOVING PART REQUIRES MAINTENANCE! JUST LIKE EVERYTHING IN LIFE, IF YOU REFUSE TO CARE FOR IT, IT WILL REFUSE TO WORK FOR YOU. Remember that.






Now, there are 2 main kinds of guns on the market currently: Spool Valve and Poppet Valve.







This is what you need to look for and do on poppet valve markers.


Regulators:

High Pressure/Inline Regulator:
Every 15-20 cases I advise opening up the regulator and going over the guts. Rub everything down with a microfiber and then apply a Dow33 or synthetic based lubricant on ALL the Orings and some on the regulator spring and piston body itself. Do not be afraid to put too much, but don't glop **** on everywhere. Keeping this maintained will make sure you can shoot as accurately/consistently as possible as well as preventing any spikes that can blow your solenoid, break paint, etc. If you own a Bob Long gun, use dow55. Unless the regulator is some after market crap, then use the normal routine.



Low Pressure/Horizontal Regulator:
Every 7-10 cases, do what you'd normally do to the High Pressure reg, but to the low pressure reg. Keeping this maintained will cut down on your chance of inconsistent shots and ball choppings. If you own a Bob Long Gun, dow55 it up.



Lower Tube (Marqs and Empire EP guns, ignore this):



Ram: Every 3-5 cases, remove and completely wipe down with microfiber, if it's an Angel, I'd dip it in rubbing alcohol if there happens to be a lot of grease in the ram body/chamber, if not, just a fiber and a shake before lubing. Now that the ram's clean, apply oil to the whole thing, especially Orings, and then apply a light coat (until you can see some residue, but not the color of the lube in patches) of the dow33 or synthetic based grease on the ram. If you own a Bob Long gun, use dow55 for new Orings, then go with the typical options stated perviously.


Valve/poppet: you almost NEVER need to touch this unless you own a marq, mini, axe or guns of the like. For those guns, use what's in the manual.


Valve and Poppet v2: some grease on the valve stem and spring, then drip oil into the valve.


Solenoid (It's usually between the frame and lower tube, but whatever):
Every 40-50 cases of paint cycled, put gun oil in it. Or you can crack it open and do the gun oil/grease mixture, but go VERY LIGHTLY on it. AVOID DOW55 AT ALL COSTS)






Upper Tube:


Bolt:
After every day of play, clean with fiber and rubbing alcohol, then either use a synthetic grease (lightly, get some in the Oring grooves and get it to the point where there's a little residue on the Orings and bolt, but not a full on layer) or dow33 based grease and some gun oil. Again, use the stuff lightly here. You just want an air seal, not to cause so much friction that the gun will explode (It won't, but that would be cool ) For Bob Long gun owners, go the dow55 route on new Orings, then just triflow or some gun oil afterwards until the bolt loses its friction with the breech.



Breech:
After every day of play, take a barrel swab, dip in rubbing alcohol (shake off so it's not soaking with it) and push all the way through the breech. Any that'll come off should clean the eyes and detents up as well. Then, dry out and rub some oil on the breech before putting the bolt in.



Eyes and Detents:
Rubbing alcohol, microfibers, slap back into place. Do this after every day if possible. Keeps **** going smoothly.






Now for the Spool Valves:





Main/Upper Body:
After every day of play (or 2 cases of paint, whichever comes first) take out the whole bolt engine, give it a douse of rubbing alcohol and then rub down with a towel until dry. Replace any loose or awkward Orings if so, then apply either a synthetic grease or a dow33 based grease. ONLY APPLY THE GREASE UNTIL THE BOLT AND ORINGS LOOK WET, you DO NOT want to see ANY of the grease's color unless it's being globbed on the bolt guide Orings. If you're ok with performing maintenance more often, get a thick lube like Kila Ice Cream and mix it with Gun oil. Does wonders, keeps **** slick, but it'll come off much faster. For sprung bolts, you have a bigger window of a "quality lube job" because there's no FSDO to happen unless you squeeze the whole ****ing tube of grease down the breech at once before a game (oh, please do it, just for fun, and record it for me too )



Solenoid Inserts (If it has ones that are to be removed and maintained):
Every 20 cases, remove, clean gently with microfiber, then apply grease. You can go hard on da paint here, but don't clog the filter or you fail.



Solenoid:
Every 40-50 cases, crack open (not literally) and drop some gun oil in there. should do the trick, make sure everything's working alright



Regulators:
Treat them like you would the poppet valve marker regulators (same **** anyways, right? )



Breech/eyes/detents:
Treat as you would the Poppet valve marker breeches. Just remove the eye covers and have at it with some Cotton pads and isopropyl/rubbing alcohol. Drop some Oil into the detents to prevent any potential sticking and push them a bit to get the oil behind the detent itself if they are sprung and not nubbins (like Shockers and Ions).






Bazam, there you go.



Lubes of choice:
MacDev Militia, Lurker Lube, Kila Ice Cream, TechT GunSav, Exalt Grease, Violent Grease, Superlube

Oils of choice:
AKALMP Extreme Lube, Violent Oil, Angel Love Juice, Exalt Oil, Air Tool Oil


DO NOT USE PETROLEUM BASED (anything "organic" as well) OILS/LUBRICANTS. IT WILL **** YOUR **** UP. Thank you.
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:27 AM #2
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reserved for videos and pics of random guns for examples.
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:13 AM #3
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On Bob Long guns, (not sure about later models) you want to use triflow, or gun oil on the bolt. Not grease. I've also always been told to use 55 on the Bob Long torps as well.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:37 AM #4
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For brand new guns (spoolie), I was told do bolt every 2-3 cases until you do this 5 times, then every day of play. Was this good advice? Got it from the owner of my local shop; but people tend to disagree. I've shot about 5 cases through it at this point, and haven't noticed a change in quality.

Great guide though
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:28 AM #5
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If your a new player I suggest you read your manual and perform the maintenance as described. For most markers you can find videos on youtube of guys going through it step by step. The above post has sweeping generalizations that may or may not apply to your gun.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:09 AM #6
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great thread, sticky?
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:47 AM #7
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I know people should read manuals and whatnot, but this is what I typically do for guns when I don't have a manual, and even when I do, some of this tends to work a bit better than the manual suggests.

I don't understand the whole "never lubricate a plastic part" bull****. They wear out even faster if you don't. then you have some REAL problems and of course, dem chillens can't figure it out, sooo....
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:54 AM #8
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It's kinda like the WGP manual telling you to lube the bolt with Vaseline...not good to do, as it rapidly turns to black, paint-coated goo!
For poppets, I would mention oiling the striker (or rear bolt on a Tippmann). Just makes everything last longer and reduces wear.
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:43 PM #9
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Good thread. I would just think about the solenoid maintenance part, you dont really have to touch the solenoid ever.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:32 PM #10
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I play a lot of pump. If I waited to put 15-20 cases of paint through a marker, it wouldn't get rebuilt once a decade.
I tear down my markers anytime, the more often the better. Especially the ones I think I might be using soon.
It can't hurt, and the better I know how to put it together the better I can pinpoint and either repair or upgrade any issues.



Quote:
Originally Posted by YeloSno View Post
I don't understand the whole "never lubricate a plastic part" bull****. They wear out even faster if you don't. then you have some REAL problems and of course, dem chillens can't figure it out, sooo....
I don't know about "never"...
But I know the plastic-on-plastic of a Splatmaster is best left dry. Any oil or grease just slows it down.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:43 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyrate Jim View Post
I play a lot of pump. If I waited to put 15-20 cases of paint through a marker, it wouldn't get rebuilt once a decade.
I tear down my markers anytime, the more often the better. Especially the ones I think I might be using soon.
It can't hurt, and the better I know how to put it together the better I can pinpoint and either repair or upgrade any issues.
I do too, even if it sits away for a long while, just to make sure everything is in perfect condition, but this info is for the people who aren't exactly... as much into the game, if you know what I mean. This is like what the minimum to keep things worth owning should be.
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:50 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ActionExpress View Post
Good thread. I would just think about the solenoid maintenance part, you dont really have to touch the solenoid ever.
I've had to lube plenty of spoolie noids. Some solenoids, like Timmys, can't be serviced, as they're magnetically sealed and tampering with it ruins them.
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:31 AM #13
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wow, I didnt think you needed to do that much maintenance. This is a great thread i can see this being stickied when you get all the picture links to videos etc Thanks for the info
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:08 AM #14
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Very little maintenance actually.

20 cases is usually like half a year of playtime for many/most.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:28 AM #15
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Depends on the type of gun. My DM12 needs more attention that an Ego11 would.
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Old 03-31-2012, 12:29 PM #16
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good thread, thanks
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:15 PM #17
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lube lightly but often... that's what i do. just make o-rings look wet
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:39 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GivenRandy View Post
Depends on the type of gun. My DM12 needs more attention that an Ego11 would.
Well, that's why, as you see, I've put up general info for spools separately from the poppets.

That begin said, of course some guns require more attention than others even in their respective categories, but these pointers are what should work universally. Not the best, but no where at all near the worst you can do.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:43 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azhector View Post
For brand new guns (spoolie), I was told do bolt every 2-3 cases until you do this 5 times, then every day of play. Was this good advice? Got it from the owner of my local shop; but people tend to disagree. I've shot about 5 cases through it at this point, and haven't noticed a change in quality.

Great guide though
5 is quite a bit for a spoolie. If anything, you're kind of pushing the limit, I'd say another case and you will notice what a dry engine will do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JC001 View Post
If your a new player I suggest you read your manual and perform the maintenance as described. For most markers you can find videos on youtube of guys going through it step by step. The above post has sweeping generalizations that may or may not apply to your gun.
Pretty much. Well, they can apply to your gun, but you should take the info with a grain of salt. Depending on the lube or engine type, you may need a bit more or a bit less attention.
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Old 08-10-2012, 05:20 AM #20
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cleaned some stuff up, expanded on this on my website.
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:09 AM #21
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no way you need to lube a noid that often
maybe once every 100 cases
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