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11-02-2012, 05:46 PM
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#43
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: wilmington Il.
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I have a question for you. Are you still using the stock braided line on your imagine? If so maybe that is where the problem is. What kind of shape is the sear in? It should have a sharp corner on it not a radius.
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11-02-2012, 06:52 PM
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#44
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The sear has nice sharp corners on it .I guess it is the stock air line for it.I just got in the hobby so not sure what it looks like exactly.It is night here so i will try the things yin's said to nite and post again tomorrow and let you know i have to charge my batts on my gun too.
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11-03-2012, 08:55 AM
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#45
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I took the air line off it and it still double shots and runs off.It does seem to shot a little better then before but it still don't get as much distance as my boys tippmann 98 custom.The one end of the air line has rust on the end of it.I don't know if I want to keep putting money in this thing or not it seems like a endless pit I keep putting money into.Buying o rings and seals and just wasting c02 and paintballs.I think I might be ending the line with this gun.
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11-03-2012, 09:33 AM
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#46
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Thought maybe it was the delrin bolt so I put the stock one back in it and still no change.
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11-04-2012, 03:48 PM
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#47
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49'er
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA
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Not sure if I previously mentioned this.. Check to make sure your valve is positioned in the correct way.
The larger diameter opening will face towards the barrel/front block. and the smaller diameter hole will face the striker/rear of the marker.
If orientated backwards, there will be a major restriction on the air flow. This would cause the lack of recocking and the very poor performance.
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11-04-2012, 04:49 PM
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#48
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Yea i found that one out the hard way already lol.I put it in back wards once before and thought i did a major oops but found out i put the valve in backwards.It still don't shot worth anything i took the filter out took the steel air line off it and hooked tank on directly to it and still no good i even played with all the springs in the 32 degree kit and no go so i am lost.Punishers paintball in Pittsburgh pa told me i will spend more to fix the gun then what it is worth so i am ready to give it up and take it as a loss i don't know what else to do with it
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11-05-2012, 11:49 PM
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#49
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49'er
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA
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You could modify it to run at a lower pressure with a larger airflow by drilling out the holes in the vertical adapter/front block and drilling out the holes in the valve.
You can file down the valve pin to allow for a higher flow rate through the valve.
You can polish the bolt and striker to help decrease the friction.
You can cup the face of the striker to allow the air pressure to help recock the striker and bolt better.
These modifications may help with your cycling issues, but be wary that they may help too much and force you to invest into a regulator to keep the pressure down.
Here's a link for the list of Spyder Modifications
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11-06-2012, 07:53 AM
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#50
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I don't have problems cycling unless you say that because it runs off.But i have a problem with shooting it shoots like 30 feet now and that's it.If all that will fix the distance shooting problem I will do all that
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11-06-2012, 11:55 AM
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#51
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49'er
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA
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After reading through your list of problems again, it still appears that the firing issues are caused by either the springs, the air flow, or a combination of the two.
A softer valve spring and/or a stiffer striker/main spring would allow the valve to stay open for a longer period of time resulting in the increased force upon the paintball.
-or you can go the modifications route-
I did these modifications on my own spyder to convert it to low pressure. I do not remember the diameters I drilled out to, but I can pull it apart and measure them.
1) Drilling out the valve will increase the airflow through the valve to the paintball. (I do not remember the diameter size, but pretty sure it is mentioned in the spyder mods guide)
2) Drilling out the front block will increase the airflow to the valve. (I do not remember the diameter size, it was slightly smaller than the overall diameter of the cupseal)
3) Polishing the striker. This will allow for a reduced amount of friction between the lower tube and the striker allowing for a slightly increased force upon the valve pin.
These modifications will be able to decrease the pressure at which you run at as well.
***Warning: If you go the modifications route, there is the chance that you may render the modified parts unusable and/or increase the airflow to the point of allowing the marker to fire in excess of 300fps. This can be dangerous to you and anyone/thing around you. If your marker does fire in excess of 300fps, you will need to replace the expansion chamber with a regulator to limit the operating pressure of the marker to a safe level.***
Also, I am unsure whether or not your CO2 tank worked flawlessly on another marker, but the output of that CO2 tank may not be high enough to fully operate a spyder due to their high operating pressures (approximately 800 psi)
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11-06-2012, 03:22 PM
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#52
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Yes my co2 tank worked on a couple different guns i thought that my tank was screwed up 1st but when i tried and i found it worked i figured it wasn't the problem.I tried playing with the springs already and no way i change them does it help hard,medium,soft or stock spring combination.
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11-06-2012, 03:55 PM
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#53
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingman imagine 03
Yes my co2 tank worked on a couple different guns i thought that my tank was screwed up 1st but when i tried and i found it worked i figured it wasn't the problem.I tried playing with the springs already and no way i change them does it help hard,medium,soft or stock spring combination.
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What it is not:
1. not the tank
2. not your bottom line setup/forefrip
3. not a worn out sear
4. not the o-rings on the hammer
5. not the spring combination
Are you positive your valve body is installed properly, not backwards or upside down? It sounds like this is the only part we can't for sure rule out.
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11-07-2012, 08:08 AM
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#54
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What do you mean upside down? It looks the exact same on the top and bottom one hole in top one hole on the bottom of the valve.And big hole towards the front of the gun.
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11-11-2012, 08:04 AM
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#55
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Any help?
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11-13-2012, 12:35 PM
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#56
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
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when you cock the gun by hand, after it clicks behind the sear, is there anymore play? like can you pull back any further? If so a lot? If there is little to no play, remove the rubber bumper donut and try firing that way. I thinks pics of all fo your internals and gun would do wonders for us.
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11-15-2012, 07:05 PM
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#57
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When I cock the bolt and it clicks behind the sear there is about a quarter inch more it can travel back.I removed the donut still shoots the same.I would post pics but I do not have a camera to post pics with and I am not spending any more money on this gun.I am about ready to go buy a new tippmann a5.
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