[CrazyHarry]

So I looked all over the place and couldn't find a good explanation, and after a good amount of tinkering I figured it out. Please forgive me if I just didn't search hard enough.

To route the wires, loosen the two screws that hold the solenoid onto the body, then use your smallest allen key to stuff the wires beside the noid as far as possible. After you are done, tighten the noid back down... it should look like this:



You may have to try it once or twice to get it right. If it interferes with your trigger, you probably didn't stuff the wires down far enough, so pull them ALL out and start over (you really need to make sure the first one is as deep as possible, before stacking other wires on top of it).

This worked on my PM8, but I suspect it would work on any PM as the tolerances around the noid seem to be similar.

If anyone has any info about the part numbers, etc. for the connector, the emitter, and the receiver, I'd like to know those as well... Eyes for the PM8, especially, are getting kinda rare, so I'd like to have all the info posted up so people can make their own.

[archerpb2013]

I have a pm7 and i dremeled out the sides to give room to run the wires along the sides of the solenoid. It works great for me.

[Renko]

I found that fitting just two of the wires under the noid and carefully moving the last two before putting the grip and frame together works just as well! It's all about wire placement though! Awesome fix; should be in a sticky!

[Box]

On my UL PM7 I just ran the wires on the top of the noid, one pair on each side. It's tricky, but it works as well.

[CrazyHarry]

What I like about the above method is that once you do it... it isn't tricky. It's even easier to take apart then if it had the ribbon eyes (because you don't have to worry about bending the wires).

I'm contemplating cutting into the corner of the solenoid a bit to make extra room. The noid has a hole drilled through it for the screw right there, and that hole doesn't need to be air tight or anything... so I could just open it up a little of the ways right on the corner there to give the wires more breathing room. IMO, if you wanted the optimum way to route the wires, that would be it. It would allow you to install them easily, and if you screwed up, you could just get a new noid (still expensive though)... as opposed to trying to find a new body (next to impossible).

[rzhukov]

Had wired eyes on PM6 and PM7 with UL, never had problems tucking them in on the side without removing noid

[nonameputs]

Originally Posted by rzhukov

Had wired eyes on PM6 and PM7 with UL, never had problems tucking them in on the side without removing noid

Seems like the only gun with really tight spaces is the pm8, specifically going past the noid.

[nonameputs]

Originally Posted by CrazyHarry

So I looked all over the place and couldn't find a good explanation, and after a good amount of tinkering I figured it out. Please forgive me if I just didn't search hard enough.

To route the wires, loosen the two screws that hold the solenoid onto the body, then use your smallest allen key to stuff the wires beside the noid as far as possible. After you are done, tighten the noid back down... it should look like this:



You may have to try it once or twice to get it right. If it interferes with your trigger, you probably didn't stuff the wires down far enough, so pull them ALL out and start over (you really need to make sure the first one is as deep as possible, before stacking other wires on top of it).

This worked on my PM8, but I suspect it would work on any PM as the tolerances around the noid seem to be similar.

If anyone has any info about the part numbers, etc. for the connector, the emitter, and the receiver, I'd like to know those as well... Eyes for the PM8, especially, are getting kinda rare, so I'd like to have all the info posted up so people can make their own.

Which wired eyes are you using?