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Old 01-21-2010, 06:28 PM #1
cheapchi
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SL68 II + cocker spring kit = compressed air?

Hi All,

I'm toying with the idea of getting a cocker spring kit to allow my SL68 II to work with compressed air.

The stock hammer and valve spring combo seems to only work well with CO2 despite what p.19 of the manual says.

Has anyone ever done this?

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:48 PM #2
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i mean, my SL-68 II ran on compressed air without a spring change, shooting about 265fps...
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:34 PM #3
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Last time I checked, Cocker springs don't fit inside.
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:13 PM #4
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Hmmmm...

Thanks for the heads up Castro.

Jingles, I could only get mine to hit 260 once after shooting about 30 balls through it with compressed air. I have a HP PE 45/45. I was shooting less than .687 bore Marballizer through the gigantic stock barrel. Could this be remedied with a smaller bore barrel?

I've been told that CO2 is more dense than compressed air. Therefore compressed air lacks enough energy in a given volume of gas to get a shot to go fast enough. Even the techs at Tippmann tell me that despite the manual, it was designed for CO2 use.

I did borrow a CO2 tank and it shot between 240-ish to 280-ish with the same paint. I just enjoy the consistency of the compressed air.

Is there anything I'm overlooking?
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:14 PM #5
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i know a guy who bought a sl68 II (the new one) and he runs it off a 13/3000 HPA tank.
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:19 PM #6
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yeah, the marbs I've been getting have been tiny...if you can find a smaller bore barrel, or maybe gt the stock one drilled for freak inserts, you'd be much better off...or buy bigger paint?

that's the problem with a lot of the old pumps, the paint these days is just too damn small.
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:22 PM #7
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Jingles, I thought of boring the stock barrel out for inserts but someone more clever than myself pointed out that there would be a very good chance that the bolt oring would pull out the insert when it engages the barrel.

I'm trying to locate a smaller bore barrel at the moment.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:13 PM #8
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I usually just stick a piece of electrical tape in the squeegee hole on the left side of the gun, then close the breech to stick it to the inside of the barrel. fold the rest of the tape over the outer body, and you've got a barrel detent that will keep you shooting all day with no problems.

Of course, you may need to fold the inner portion over itself once to get some of the really small paint to stay.
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:49 AM #9
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Thanks Castro, I'll give that method a go with the HP tank and see how it shoots.
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:07 AM #10
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I forgot to suggest simply stretching your main spring slightly if you need more velocity. This is a common fix for SL's with low fps, and has been done for years. The best thing is that if you manage to break yours now (I can't imagine how, but I guess it's possible) you can call Tippmann for a new one.

The only commercially available barrel for the SL currently is the J&J, which may only come in 14".
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:35 PM #11
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Hey, this talk of Freak inserts in the SL just gave me an idea. Castro, I may PM you later about it, it might be worth pursuing.

And I, too, have been playing the "stretch the spring" game for a looooong time. Get pretty decent life out of 'em. It's good to know the old warhorse can still cut it out there these days.
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Old 01-22-2010, 06:20 PM #12
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Castro, By the "main spring" do you mean the valve spring (that would make more sense based on how I understand it to work) or the hammer spring?

What method would you all recommend for stretching the spring?

I'm jazzed, I really would like to take her out for a dance! Might just have to wait till the little one is asleep to fire off a few rounds in the basement with the handheld chronograph.
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:10 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapchi View Post
Castro, By the "main spring" do you mean the valve spring (that would make more sense based on how I understand it to work) or the hammer spring?

What method would you all recommend for stretching the spring?


I'm jazzed, I really would like to take her out for a dance! Might just have to wait till the little one is asleep to fire off a few rounds in the basement with the handheld chronograph.
be man use your hand(s)....hahaha it kind of rhymes
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:42 PM #14
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Will do Mr. Jingles. I'm asian, and cheap by nature, so that's probably where I was heading anyhow.

Castro, I tried the tape detent and it worked great! No rollouts. But I could not get my chronograph to work right so I'll update later on how the shot speed reacted.

Thanks everyone!
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:04 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pump Scout View Post
Hey, this talk of Freak inserts in the SL just gave me an idea. Castro, I may PM you later about it, it might be worth pursuing.

And I, too, have been playing the "stretch the spring" game for a looooong time. Get pretty decent life out of 'em. It's good to know the old warhorse can still cut it out there these days.
Like I said... an OLD trick.

If you're thinking of using Scepter or (better yet) Python inserts, count me in on getting something cut. I've been putting off having my largest Boomstick kit back cut for the Python.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapchi View Post
Castro, By the "main spring" do you mean the valve spring (that would make more sense based on how I understand it to work) or the hammer spring?

What method would you all recommend for stretching the spring?

I'm jazzed, I really would like to take her out for a dance! Might just have to wait till the little one is asleep to fire off a few rounds in the basement with the handheld chronograph.
The main spring is always the "drive" spring in any gun. It generally moves the bolt and/or hammer roughly an inch. The valve spring is usually harder to get to (not so in the case of the SL) and is generally left alone, since it's often a smaller spring (therefore less likely to work well once messed with).

I had some brass shims cut for my SL's spring around the time of my Boomstick. They fit inside the bolt and come out fairly easily. I tried other options for a while, but this is by far the best solution.

I've all but given up modding my SLs for a while now. I've considered getting back to get some work done, but for all the things I want to do, I don't have the time or tools.
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:38 PM #16
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1) The electrical tape worked great. No rollouts. The balls stayed right in front of the breach just like they're supposed to until the bolt engaged. Thanks Castro!

2) I stretched the hammer spring from its original length of 6cm to 6.5cm. This did not improve the shot speed.

Other suggestions?
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:51 PM #17
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that was only half a cm, less then 1/4 of an inch. maybe stretch it to 7 cm
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:17 AM #18
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Actually, a short distance in spring length can make all the difference. However, chances are the spring compressed again once returned to the gun. You could try shimming the spring, but it's tough to find good material to do that with. I tried using some orings once, but once you want them back out... good luck.

Another option is to try adding an extra oring to the back cap, then not screwing the back cap in fully. This will allow the valve to open a little more, and possibly help. This could also cause the gun to leak out of the back cap, so that's kind of "iffy".
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Old 01-25-2010, 05:59 PM #19
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I'll look around my local Home Depot or Lowes for something I could use.

I'm not done trying.

If anyone thinks of anything keep the suggestions coming.
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:01 PM #20
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Don't forget to bring your bolt with you when you go. You'll need to either fit or measure both inner and outer diameters of everything you want to try, so it doesn't get stuck.
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Old 01-26-2010, 08:31 AM #21
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Scepter... can't believe I didn't think of that, and I've had one of those sets. They're perfect for this, and I'd bet the short-insert ones would be cheap enough to pick up and not be too sad about cutting. I wouldn't do it to one of the long-insert sets personally.

I'd been thinking about a front loading two piece, like the Scepter setup, but with a small ridge/step at the bore end for the insert to sit against, and using Freak inserts (since they're dirt cheap). But yeah, now I'm going to have to go on the prowl for a last-model Scepter or Revolver to play around with.
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