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Old 11-08-2012, 06:14 AM #22
bushhog750
 
 
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I tried it on a ninja tank that i just bought and it worked really good. It can peel off easily if needed but it wont come off during sliding or anything like that. It worked good and is still on the ninja tank after 2 hard weeks of play. I would not hesitate to do it again.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:12 AM #23
Kil187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bushhog750 View Post
I tried it on a ninja tank that i just bought and it worked really good. It can peel off easily if needed but it wont come off during sliding or anything like that. It worked good and is still on the ninja tank after 2 hard weeks of play. I would not hesitate to do it again.
Interesting, did the Ninja tank have a gel coat? Most of the shiny black tanks that they produced had the gel coat. More info would be great and possibly some pics. I will get back to you guys with Plasti-dip's response.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:19 AM #24
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Its a newer ninja tank. I also did it on a crossfire tank and it worked just fine.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:13 PM #25
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Originally Posted by Kil187 View Post
Noted and I appreciate the concern, but this logic can be applied to tank covers and butts also, no? Just wondering as I am learning a bit from this discussion.



Actually I was asking from a protective standpoint, I would like to protect my tank from knicks, cracks, bangs, dents, etc. with the coating/dip or whatever you want to call it, so it can pass re-hydro. I don't believe in spending 150$-170$ every 3 to 5 years on a new tank when I have taken care of my existing tanks and a re-hydro costs 16$ each. The grip just would be an added bonus, killing 2 birds with one stone, so to speak. This would also eliminate the need for me to buy tank covers every couple of years or so.

I have e-mailed Plasti-dip and asked them if it will in fact harm a carbon fiber wrapped hpa cylinder, waiting on a response now.

Kind of giggled at the "You've been warned several times now" remark. Don't worry, I won't blame anybody in this thread if something catastrophic were to happen. I'm not the "I'm gonna sue you for my stupidity" type. Either way I'm a bit smarter than that, I ask questions and do research when it comes to me and my family's safety, thus the reason why I'm asking here.

I honestly see this as another form of a tank cover and nothing more. A cheaper alternative to tank butts, grips, covers and what have you. I also think its just as dangerous, if not more, to be playing with an uncovered and unprotected tank with the way these guys are diving and sliding everywhere now a days, but that is just me, I'm a bit older and don't really do all that fancy stuff and I like to save money and take care of my gear.
Adhesive is glue. So Plasti-Dip has a glue to it, that when you place it on an item, it sticks to the item. It isn't necessarily a strong glue, like contact cement, but it is there nonetheless. So you may not even notice that when you take it off, it actually weakens the gel coat, the epoxy, that covers the carbon fiber wraps. By the time that you take your tank in for it's first hydro, it has weakened the epoxy so much that it won't pass hydro. Yet it still looks okay, with no cracks.

The difference between the tank covers and butts, compared to the idea of a tool dip, is that they don't have an adhesive. They have a rubber coating, but no adhesive. Actually, a tank butt won't do anything to protect your tank, as it is only there to add grip. On the other hand, a tank cover will protect your tank. In all of the years of playing paintball, the worst thing that I have seen from a tank cover on a tank is a bit of discoloration, because paint got into the tank cover, and didn't get cleaned off.

The other part is this: How durable is the stuff, specifically when it comes to playing, and what is the cost? Because there are plenty of other methods to protect your tank, and cost is maybe $25 tops for one of those methods. I have seen tank covers take a long time to finally wear down to the point that you want to replace the tank cover.

I don't get why you want keep looking at the idea of tool dip when you can find those old sleeves that covered your tank with rubber stuff on the top and bottom, and a clear tube that covered the sides, so you could easily see everything.
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:40 PM #26
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There's an aluminum tank inside the fiber wrap then an epoxy coat on the outside of the fiber wrap then a gel coat over the epoxy. It's not gonna weaken a tank even if it did persay eat the gel coat. Hell the ninja gel coats were cracking all to pieces and it never effected the tanks performance. The plasti dip hardens and reacts to fast to harm or eat anything. The gel coat is harder than the plasti dip, you act like gel coating and the plasti dip is causing a chemical reaction. The only reaction is a hardening agent in the dip. No chemical actions are occurring. It's not like your spraying mentos and coke on the tank. If a chemical reaction was taking place it would generate heat. No heat is generated while the plasti is drying.

Last edited by bushhog750 : 11-08-2012 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:32 AM #27
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Keep in mind, just because you don't see the chemical reaction does not mean that it isn't happening. All it takes is for the adhesive to cause a weakening in the epoxy and gel coat. When a tank is hydrotested, they check to see how much the tank expands and contracts during the test. If the tool dip and it's adhesive causes the gel coat and epoxy to break down, you won't see it, but when you go to get it to hydrotest, it may well fail, due to the tank expanding too much, and conversely contracting too much. Tool dip was meant to bond, even if only weakly, to inert metals that don't have to contract and expand. Not to say that it can't be used on other things, but without proof, do you want to be the one that puts it on his tank, only to find out that five years, or less, later, that the tank can't pass hydro?
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:26 PM #28
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So your telling me that a cracked gel coat ninja tank won't pass hydro. Your are not correct sir cause I just had two tanks pass and the tester even told me as I asked if he would test them with the coat being cracked. He said don't worry about that coating being cracked. It has no bearing to the test we perform. He said its more for aesthetics than anything. They are only worried about the inside of the tank pressures.
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:47 PM #29
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The upper black coating is a cosmetic layer. It's the clear coat under the black lacquer coat that holds the fibers in place.
Not all tanks have the cosmetic layer though. Also with adhesives or anything that is meant to bond to a surface you run the risk of ripping off your gel coating if it were to bond. Much like with certain tapes people were putting on their cylinders for grip.
So if somebody were to apply a coating of something to the tank to provide grip and it were to bond to the actual clear coat you would have a potentially serious issue. Because again, not all tanks have a colored cosmetic layer. Crossfire does dyed clear coats as well as 'grey ghosts'. Ninja, Pure Energy, Empire, etc also all do clear coated 'grey ghost' systems. Those are more common then brands with colored cosmetic layers by comparison because they are cheaper/more affordable in comparison.

Last edited by Tabris17 : 11-09-2012 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:35 AM #30
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Originally Posted by bushhog750 View Post
So your telling me that a cracked gel coat ninja tank won't pass hydro. Your are not correct sir cause I just had two tanks pass and the tester even told me as I asked if he would test them with the coat being cracked. He said don't worry about that coating being cracked. It has no bearing to the test we perform. He said its more for aesthetics than anything. They are only worried about the inside of the tank pressures.
I'm sorry, either I'm not saying this correctly, or you just aren't understanding what I am saying.

Whether a Ninja, or any other company, has a gel coat or not, does not matter. On the label for a HPA tank, there is a REE (Rejection Elastic Expansion) number. It's how much a tank can shrink and expand, and be safe for use. When a tank shrinks or expands beyond this number, it is no longer safe for you, and decertified. With a carbon fiber, or even fiberglass, wrapped tank, you have a whole system that hold the air into the tank. The aluminum core, the fiber wrap, and the epoxy. If any one of those should fail, the tank is no good. So, what I am saying, if you coat your tank with a tool dip, and has a chemical reaction that weakens the epoxy, that means that your tank is less structurally sound than it was. Being less structurally sound, it may be more at risk for some kind of failure.

Now, I don't know for a fact if that is the case. And contacting the company that makes the stuff is a good first step. They may know, they may not. But until you know, for a fact, that the adhesive won't weaken the epoxy, do you want to risk your tank? Do you want to risk the weakened epoxy, around others?
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