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Old 10-01-2012, 06:00 PM #1
iquadra
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Dye board question

Alright so the past two times I've played I noticed my dm11 was getting some random shot drop off. I cleaned the bolt, hpr, and lpr and tossed a new battery in. Fine tuned it and the problem seemed to be fixed. Yesterday I'm out playing and it does it again... Okay I take my air tank of and check the gun out, do absolutely nothing and throw the air tank on and it works fine for the rest of the day. Well today as I'm getting ready to clean the gun off, I open the grips to remove the battery and notice that one of the prongs is just dangling by a thread. I was just wondering if anyone knows if this was a common thing that dye was aware of with their newer boards and if anyone has had this same problem.





(Sorry for the blurry pics my camera is a POS)

I'm not too worried because I'm sure I can find someone to solder it for me, but if anyone has any other suggestions (other then buy a new board ) on how to fix this please feel free to let me know.


Thanks ahead of time for any help/advice
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:35 PM #2
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No, its not commen it happens some times if the black rubber piece isn't there to act as a bumper, just like you said solder it on or buy a used board from nation for 20-30 bucks, or go safe and buy a new one from dye for 50, as far as your FSOD there is only few things to cause it..


A; Your dwell is to low

B; Your LPR is to low

C; your bolt needs to be relubed


What I would do

D; Relube bolt check the orings over, make sure the bolt can slides nicely with no resistance,

E; Check your dwell make sure it's at like either 18 (stock) or 21

C; read around a bit and check out how to tune your LPR every gun is different, but mostly are 3 1/2 4 turns
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Last edited by grss429 : 10-01-2012 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:48 PM #3
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Thanks man up'ed the dwell to 21 (it was at the stock setting of 18 prior), now just gotta find someone who's good at soldering lol
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:52 PM #4
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Solder it back on.

And you have to be careful when installing the battery. That prong can get hung up on the negative battery terminal when you are pushing the battery in to place, which will force the prong back away from the board.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:00 PM #5
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Solder it back on.

And you have to be careful when installing the battery. That prong can get hung up on the negative battery terminal when you are pushing the battery in to place, which will force the prong back away from the board.
Sure thing
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:43 PM #6
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Okay I just showed this to my buddy who offered to help solder it and he said I should just glue it since it wouldn't be soldering metal on metal, as the board where the prong touches doesn't appear to be metal expect in the corner where the prong is still "hanging by a thread." Should I just put solder in between the prong and the board as originally planned, or should I glue it?
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:26 PM #7
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Okay I just showed this to my buddy who offered to help solder it and he said I should just glue it since it wouldn't be soldering metal on metal, as the board where the prong touches doesn't appear to be metal expect in the corner where the prong is still "hanging by a thread." Should I just put solder in between the prong and the board as originally planned, or should I glue it?
i used this on my board, soldered it to the contact points...


solder it bud, put that skill into good use...
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:29 PM #8
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Are you suggesting I get a harness and solder that? or solder the prong directly to the board? Thanks for the help and pics man
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:49 PM #9
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Are you suggesting I get a harness and solder that? or solder the prong directly to the board? Thanks for the help and pics man
if the existing metal contact point is still good then you could just resolder, if not, then ill just take off the excess solder off the board and find the hole on the board to which the prong can go in and solder the ends of the harness... just keep in mind the polarity of the wires in relation to the board...
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:53 PM #10
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I prefer the prongs over a traditional harness, but either will work and both have their pros and cons as far as convenience and durability.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:01 PM #11
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I prefer the prongs over a traditional harness, but either will work and both have their pros and cons as far as convenience and durability.
i prefer the prongs too, coz you can solder above and below the board, but im just thinking that the battery harness is commonly available than the stock contact points...
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:15 PM #12
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Going to try soldering the prong first if that doesn't work I might give the harness a go but to be honest I prefer prongs as well.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:03 PM #13
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Alright so I guess it turns out the pad that it is supposed to be soldered to has come off as you can kind of see in the picture (showed to an electrical engineer). The prong is still soldered to the pad so applying more solder would do nothing. When you guys refer to the contact point is it this "pad" that you solder the prong to that you are referring to or the point where the prong/pad touch or make contact with the board (because this is the sole point which is holding the prong/pad on by a string)? Would I just be able to use some JB weld to stick the pad down to the board? I was told these "pads" are built into the board so does this mean I am just going to be forced to buy a new board at this point?
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:22 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iquadra View Post
Alright so I guess it turns out the pad that it is supposed to be soldered to has come off as you can kind of see in the picture (showed to an electrical engineer). The prong is still soldered to the pad so applying more solder would do nothing. When you guys refer to the contact point is it this "pad" that you solder the prong to that you are referring to or the point where the prong/pad touch or make contact with the board (because this is the sole point which is holding the prong/pad on by a string)? Would I just be able to use some JB weld to stick the pad down to the board? I was told these "pads" are built into the board so does this mean I am just going to be forced to buy a new board at this point?
Honestly, it seems like alot of work, you can get a used dm11-12 board, for really cheap here on the nation, which is around 25-30 bucks, or you can get a brand new one from dye for 50

it just seems like the safer route to me, seeing you could always have problems down the road with it, and if you go to sell it I dont think many people want a rigged board
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:58 PM #15
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I need a UL2 board then correct (one that the nt11, dm11, and dm12 use)? I don't think the dm9 board will fit the new frame, please correct me if I am wrong though.
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:43 PM #16
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If you're not skilled at soldering then I wouldn't try it. But if you are, then you would follow the traces on the board back to a point where you can solder (where something else is already soldered usually), and solder the harness there. If you could get some less fuzzy pics of both sides of the board I may be able to tell you where to solder what.
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:34 PM #17
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The metal plate or pad that the prong is solder to has come up with the prong so I don't think soldering is of any help to me.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:40 PM #18
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I meant soldering on a battery harness and doing away with the prongs.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:59 PM #19
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I meant soldering on a battery harness and doing away with the prongs.
Oh, got it, I'm might give that a go, I think I know where to solder the ends of the wire so we'll see. Thanks though man
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:07 PM #20
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No problem. By the looks of it those are some pretty small solder pads on there so be careful if you do try it. And be sure not to overheat anything as you might damage a component.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:08 PM #21
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Yea that's kinda why I was hesitant to do any soldering at all myself. + does anyone know if the stock nt11 board is the exact same as the dm11 board?
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