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Old 01-04-2013, 12:58 PM #1954
B-RADD
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So I was messing with the Ninja today as it has trouble starting, but idles fine. I noticed that the clutch lever on the handlebar is very stiff, and when you shift from neutral to first the bike would drop rpm's or it stalled, although the stalling only happened once. The bike will also move itself when in first gear even when the clutch lever is fully depressed. It's almost as if the clutch lever doesn't fully disengage the clutch from the motor, at least that's my idea. Anyone have any ideas? Sorry for all the "help me" posts I've had the past few days.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:40 PM #1955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-RADD View Post
So I was messing with the Ninja today as it has trouble starting, but idles fine. I noticed that the clutch lever on the handlebar is very stiff, and when you shift from neutral to first the bike would drop rpm's or it stalled, although the stalling only happened once. The bike will also move itself when in first gear even when the clutch lever is fully depressed. It's almost as if the clutch lever doesn't fully disengage the clutch from the motor, at least that's my idea. Anyone have any ideas? Sorry for all the "help me" posts I've had the past few days.
Ninja 250s are notorious for being hard to start in the cold. You have to choke them to start. And once you get them started, you have to let them warm up. That might be causing your starting and stalling issue.

You may need to adjust your clutch. It might not be fully disengaging which can cause it to move even when the clutch is pulled in and can also cause stalling.

However, it's not unusual for a bike to try to pull forward just a tad if you start them with the clutch in while in first gear. But it should just do it for a fraction of a second right as you start it. That's normal. But if it does it any other time, something is up with the clutch.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:48 PM #1956
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Looks like I'll be able to easily swing a 390 Duke as a **** around bike this year. Hopefully KTM announces the release schedule soon so I can figure out when the faired version is landing.

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I'm in no rush so ill probably just wait to get the arai since everyone seems to have such positive reviews on them. Where is a good place to look for deals on them though? I don't know any of the big name shops that would have stuff.
I only buy from sportbiketrackgear.com and revzilla.com unless its a specialized part. You just missed out on the end of year sales.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:04 PM #1957
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:08 PM #1958
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Looks like I'll be able to easily swing a 390 Duke as a **** around bike this year. Hopefully KTM announces the release schedule soon so I can figure out when the faired version is landing.


I only buy from sportbiketrackgear.com and revzilla.com unless its a specialized part. You just missed out on the end of year sales.
Did you see the new Husky TR650?
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:59 PM #1959
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What do you guys think about this? Is it worth the hassle? I haven't had a chance to look up how much new fairings and whatnot would cost. I only ask because its local to me.
http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/mcy/3436412013.html
Fairings are the least your concerns with that piece of ****. That thing's been wadded up hard.
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I know i've been asking a ton of questions lately but what are the most important pieces of riding gear i should spend the most on or buy first?

I plan to get an arai helmet first and then I know I need a good pair of gloves. After that i'd probably get some kind of back protector and a jacket (or would I be better to just get a jacket with some protection in it? How necessary are pants and boots though? I wouldn't be doing anything more than recreational riding around town and slight highway riding.
but
Arai is a great helmet but it won't necessarily protect your head better than a helmet that costs half as much. Check this site out.

sharp.direct.gov.uk

Quote:
Originally Posted by B-RADD View Post
So I was messing with the Ninja today as it has trouble starting, but idles fine. I noticed that the clutch lever on the handlebar is very stiff, and when you shift from neutral to first the bike would drop rpm's or it stalled, although the stalling only happened once. The bike will also move itself when in first gear even when the clutch lever is fully depressed. It's almost as if the clutch lever doesn't fully disengage the clutch from the motor, at least that's my idea. Anyone have any ideas? Sorry for all the "help me" posts I've had the past few days.
You need a clutch cable. You could try lubing it and adjusting it correctly but replacing it will be easier and probably cheaper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonybhall View Post
Ninja 250s are notorious for being hard to start in the cold. You have to choke them to start. And once you get them started, you have to let them warm up. That might be causing your starting and stalling issue.
There isn't anything special about the ninja 250 being hard to start. Mine always fired right up with some choke and away I went. You should never let it sit and idle to warm it up.

Any engine needs to be up to operating temp before you start romping on it...his issue sounds more carb related. If the carbs are dirty, a rebuild kit isn't going to help you.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:04 PM #1960
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I currently wear an HJC FS10. Thinking about picking up a Scorpion EXO 1100 for my next helmet this spring. Anyone here have any experience with them?
they are heeeaeaaavvvyyy

Quote:
Originally Posted by B-RADD View Post
So I was messing with the Ninja today as it has trouble starting, but idles fine. I noticed that the clutch lever on the handlebar is very stiff, and when you shift from neutral to first the bike would drop rpm's or it stalled, although the stalling only happened once. The bike will also move itself when in first gear even when the clutch lever is fully depressed. It's almost as if the clutch lever doesn't fully disengage the clutch from the motor, at least that's my idea. Anyone have any ideas? Sorry for all the "help me" posts I've had the past few days.
How much free play do you have in the clutch lever when it's out? Should be a few mm of play, if it's too tight the clutch will feel grabby like you said
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:04 PM #1961
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Mine is almost brand new and it's difficult to start after it sits for only a week.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:10 PM #1962
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I'm trying to start a bike that hasnt ran in 18 years... Not easy.

My r6 always starts right away no matter how long it sits. That bike is a beast.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:14 PM #1963
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but
Arai is a great helmet but it won't necessarily protect your head better than a helmet that costs half as much. Check this site out.

sharp.direct.gov.uk
That's a really interesting website. Thank you, seriously. Maybe I won't be getting an Arai helmet after all.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:45 PM #1964
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First place I go to when I'm shopping helmets
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:25 PM #1965
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x2. Great resource i recommend that to everyone
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:37 PM #1966
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I;ve crashed twice in Arai helmets. I won't wear anything else because the fit is best for my head shape. Whatever helmet you get it needs to fit comfortably.

As for boots, get motorcycle specific boots that are designed to resist ankle twists and crushing impact. TCX, Alpinestars, Sidi, Gaerne are some of the better brands.

Remember, hands and feet have many bones and ligaments. You want the best protection possible. You can't run and gun without 'em.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:56 PM #1967
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I'm so confused at this point because the arai helmet i was looking at had a 3 star review for the safety tests. So then I looked at a bunch of AGT helmets but most of those don't seem to be snell certified.

From what i'm getting from all of this is that a good helmet, gloves, boots, and a jacket are a must. everything else is optional depending on convenience, money, and value of life.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:03 PM #1968
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I need a rear shock.

In other news the rear end of my bike is now spot less clean, greased and ready for assembly tomorrow. I can't wait to see how good my bike looks in the spring. I suppose all I have to do now is swap fork oil and it can go back together. I wish that I could raise my forks in the clamps a bit, but my bike isn't cool enough for that. Or maybe it is. I haven't tried yet.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:22 PM #1969
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Quote:
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I'm so confused at this point because the arai helmet i was looking at had a 3 star review for the safety tests. So then I looked at a bunch of AGT helmets but most of those don't seem to be snell certified.

From what i'm getting from all of this is that a good helmet, gloves, boots, and a jacket are a must. everything else is optional depending on convenience, money, and value of life.
Look at a Shoei Qwest. Has some of the best crash test rating available and you can find them for decent prices too.

http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street...le_helmet.html
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:31 PM #1970
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Originally Posted by Naumoff42 View Post
I'm so confused at this point because the arai helmet i was looking at had a 3 star review for the safety tests. So then I looked at a bunch of AGT helmets but most of those don't seem to be snell certified.

From what i'm getting from all of this is that a good helmet, gloves, boots, and a jacket are a must. everything else is optional depending on convenience, money, and value of life.
Do you mean AGV helmets? Excellent lids, them them on first (that goes for any helmet really). They are mostly ECE certified vs. snell. Not inferior in any way and some might say an ECE rating is better.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:22 PM #1971
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Ninja 250s are notorious for being hard to start in the cold. You have to choke them to start. And once you get them started, you have to let them warm up. That might be causing your starting and stalling issue.

You may need to adjust your clutch. It might not be fully disengaging which can cause it to move even when the clutch is pulled in and can also cause stalling.

However, it's not unusual for a bike to try to pull forward just a tad if you start them with the clutch in while in first gear. But it should just do it for a fraction of a second right as you start it. That's normal. But if it does it any other time, something is up with the clutch.
Yeah it does it for more than a fraction of a second, its almost like how the bike moves a bit when you put it in first and slowly engage the clutch to get the bike moving, but not quite as fast.


Quote:
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You need a clutch cable. You could try lubing it and adjusting it correctly but replacing it will be easier and probably cheaper.

There isn't anything special about the ninja 250 being hard to start. Mine always fired right up with some choke and away I went. You should never let it sit and idle to warm it up.

Any engine needs to be up to operating temp before you start romping on it...his issue sounds more carb related. If the carbs are dirty, a rebuild kit isn't going to help you.
I'll probably end up replacing the clutch cable, just for good measure. I'll take the carbs off soon and make sure they're clean, one of them most likely needs a rebuild anyway. I think my starting issue is battery related as I jumped it and it started right up with no issues, and would continue to do so for a few hours.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:02 PM #1972
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so whens this pbn east coast meet going down...
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:03 AM #1973
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Do you mean AGV helmets? Excellent lids, them them on first (that goes for any helmet really). They are mostly ECE certified vs. snell. Not inferior in any way and some might say an ECE rating is better.
Would I be wrong to try and get a helmet without the Snell certification or is that kind of a must?
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:20 AM #1974
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Snell is not an absolute necessity, dot is. Depending on where you are you don't even have to have a helmet. But dot is the lowest standard. If you want the most protection for the squishy bits in your dome, get snell.

But don't think a dot certified helmet won't protect you. It will. Some companies that make dot cert helmets could get snell rated, but just haven't spent the money to go after that rating.
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