[Mark S.]

Type B screens are designed to work with 2.0 software. Type A for 1.0. B screens are a better design. The link I posted shows the procedure how to get a B screen to work with 1.0 software and an A screen to work with 2.0 software. Any screen will work with any software, you just may have to perform the procedure in the link.

[Speedfreak11]

Tonight when I get home I'll pull the screen out of my Drone and use it to test the RX. I'll let you know what happens.

[Mark S.]

Sounds good. You'll likely have to perform the procedure listed in that link as I'm guessing the Drone has a type B board since when the Drone was released any board that would have been bought from MD at that time I believe would have been type B.

[Speedfreak11]

I've got good news, and I've got bad news. It's definitely a bad screen. The Type B out of my Drone worked perfectly. The bad news...the noid leaks. Is there anywhere I can get the small orings to rebuild it?

[Mark S.]

So you think it's one of the internal o-rings on the noid spool? If that's the case you could pull the spool and grease it pretty liberally and see if that helps.

[Speedfreak11]

No, its the tiny little o-rings between the bodies. One of these is missing:

[Mark S.]

I've never had an RX noid apart. I'm sure you could source the o-rings somewhere, but I personally have no idea what size they are. Are the o-rings damaged, or just missing? You could measure them if they are damaged. I have to assume they are metric, and once you have the diameter, it should be easy to eyeball the width.

[Speedfreak11]

Honestly, I think they are closer to gaskets. If they were round at one point, they definitely aren't anymore. There is one completely missing, and it leaks badly.

[Mark S.]

I believe it's a Humphrey noid in there right? You may be able to find a parts explosion based off the part # and find out what type of o-ring that is. Could always e-mail Humphrey too (assuming it's one of their noids).

[Speedfreak11]

Yeah, I'm already on it. It's a humphrey crcb-0051w.

[Mark S.]

I happen to have one of those noids here that happens to be defective, but does have all components. If you tell me exactly what you are looking to figure out and the location I may be able to help identify the o-ring size for you.

[Speedfreak11]

Disregard the 006 o-ring beside the noid. That's there just for size reference. See the pic below for where they are located.

[Mark S.]

Wow yeah those o-rings are about the smallest ones I have ever seen. Guessing they are like .5x1 or .25x1 (if that's even a real size). You know what, these o-rings are useless to me since the noid is bad and I honestly was just keeping it around for spare parts if need me. Shoot me a PM with your address and I will mail them to you.

[Speedfreak11]

You're awesome, bro! PM'd you. And Thanks!

[Zippin35]

Mark saves the day yet again!

[Speedfreak11]

Big thanks to Mark!!! Noid re-assembled with new tiny o-rings. No leaks, functions perfectly. Now just to get the screen Fresh is sending over, and it will be tuning time!!!!

[Mark S.]

That's great news man!

[Speedfreak11]

I just learned a very important lesson. Don't pull the tank until the gun has done it's "release". I turned my back to it, and after about 5 minutes it did it's thing, shooting out the ASA internals out. The body hit my back, and the pin hit my arm. Good times!

[Mark S.]

DOH...glad it didn't hit you in the face!!

[seriouslysilly]

Ouch!

[Speedfreak11]

Just got it all back together and popped about 50 shots off at the tree across the front yard. Granted it's dark outside, I haven't gotten the screen yet so I have no idea what the board settings are, and I don't have a chrono or pressure tester for testing, but I can say it shoots nice! LOL.

Now all I need is the screen (on it's way to me), new grips (buying new, or I have some SPD Homer Simpson Hulk ones I'd trade for some nice stock ones), and a new membrane pad (this one is toast). I might have a complete working gun in the next week or so!