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Old 09-14-2012, 04:25 PM #1
Mr. Wizard
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not-so-UL Impulse

simply put: UL frame + old-school impy...

i just need stock eyes and a tapeworm w/nipple (for the LPR, not shown), or use the set of BB eyes i have, though that would require drilling new holes (not difficult, but i don't want to do it... yet)




the upper screw is through the existing on/off hole:


together (with my red ion freak)


i think this isn't technically a "voided warranty" mod, but if i go through with the breakbeam eyes it will be
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Last edited by Mr. Wizard : 09-21-2012 at 02:46 PM. Reason: some pictures failed, re-uploaded them
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:40 PM #2
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Looks good, would look really good on a milled body. Good idea.
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:38 PM #3
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thanks bballer, as i continue this project it'll be milled some, nothing extensive though i think.

i forgot to add a frame pic. i'm no longer using the stock imp board, i'm using the UL board, though because of the condition i recieved it, i had to make the eye wires. i also soldered on a DM5 membrane, due to the fact that i can't reach the buttons on the board through the frame with my fingers.

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Old 09-14-2012, 09:15 PM #4
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I think I have some ul buttons for you if you would like to hide the membrane pad in the frame
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:31 PM #5
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thanks, inmylife, but i'm gonna stick with what i've got for now.
i have the stock board buttons in place still, all i did was route the membrane pad wires through the center hole (visible in the pic in my last post) and soldered them in the right order.
the stock buttons still work, if i ever went down that route to use them again, though that's unlikely.
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:43 PM #6
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what about the noid, did you splice a different connector on or did it reach the board?
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:11 PM #7
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when i got the gun, the original owner either attempted (read: failed) to fix the noid, or let a friend attempt to fix it, without soldering the connections. the wires had been pulled off of the noid, and i think they attempted to hide that fact with duct tape.
simply put, the gun was inoperable when i received it, and i soldered my own connections to it.

i'll put a few tray/noid shots up, though all that's different is the red/black wires are gone, and the connector is the same as the viking/excalibur board connectors (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...zje1poG s%3D), on white wires that are roughly 5 inches long.
i have to get the body to a drill press so i can use the break-beam eyes that are currently rolled up into the tray. plus once i get all of that working, i'm still short a tapeworm, and or LPR+Tapeworm mod so that i don't have bolt-stick when dry-firing it, which happened a lot when i tested it
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:30 PM #8
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more pics!

first off, the membrane (cut down, horrible job for me but it still works):


how the solenoid looked when i opened the frame:


an exploded view (non stock parts: ul frame, evil ram, feedneck):


now this last pic is something of a plan, i want to get access to a lathe and have these parts built, or build them myself. more specifically, redesign the lower tube:
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:18 PM #9
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i hope you dont plan on putting the body into a lathe
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Old 09-22-2012, 12:57 AM #10
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yeah, right into a lathe. it'll make the perfect cuts

by "these parts built" i was referring to the second part of that sentence "more specifically the lower tube" and the bottom portion of the picture that depicts a redesigned lower internal structure...
though that shouldn't have to be explained, in my honest opinion....
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:08 PM #11
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does the UL frame have a higher voltage or amperage output than the shocker board?

i only ask because partway into a game (roughly 1000 shots on the 'noid with the UL board, give or take a few hundred) the impy stopped shooting... i figured "ok, battery died, go figure" and went back and changed it, to no avail.

i tested another spare noid (different design than the impy 4000 noid) and it worked fine...

i tested my solder joints, and they're fine, and i've tested the noid in another marker, to no avail...

anyone know?
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:49 PM #12
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coil gone bad?
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:51 PM #13
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that was my guess and i was hoping it wasn't the case... cause if it is... well let me just say that sucks
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:50 PM #14
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From having dealt with 3 DM-Pulses, the battery life should be quite average.

jwycher, as far as the 'noid wires go, it's a good idea to extend them and the DM eye wires to make stuff fit.

Can't go wrong with a DM-Pulse Wizard, nicely done.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:27 PM #15
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Thanks Box, nothing i connect my noid to will allow it to work, i think it may have just died on me...

when it worked, though, it fired great. i've never owned an impy until now, and i'm fairly impressed with it. not as much kick as i imagined it having (stock bolt, evil punch hammer)

now i just need to find a cheap used noid... i don't want to pay $62+shipping for a new one (price from airsoldier's site, the skinner noid)
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:30 PM #16
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Any updates on this project? The UL frame bolted right on and fired the relatively stock impulse? That's sick.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:20 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japy View Post
Any updates on this project? The UL frame bolted right on and fired the relatively stock impulse? That's sick.
No updates, i cant source a noid. One guy here on nation had a noid for sale, but he hasnt posted in ages and hasnt read my PM, every other project i see wants to sell the whole imp, or an imp w/o noid...

And it pretty much bolted right up, only one real mod, and that was replacing the stock connector for the noid to a smaller one that fit on the ul board. Worked great until the noid died, and id love to jave it up and running again.
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