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Old 08-04-2012, 12:54 PM #1
Methodcaptain
 
 
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Magno internals for LED/LCD/IR3

Just seeing if there is any interest for this mod.

I figured out how to do it on my LED. I still have testing to do, but I shot a bag of 500 through the marker without a problem.

The next step would be to see if I can reduce hammer weight and start to smooth out the cycling of the marker, which is really what the magno internals do best.
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:06 PM #2
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interested. is it a drop in type mod, or a drill the body type mod
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:29 PM #3
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It's a pretty simple process on the G7 gen with a few parts to fab up. Glad others are experimenting!
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:41 PM #4
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The way I did it required two magno valve stems.

I used a d-lite stem for the actual valve seal (seats just fine in an LED/LCD/IR3 valve body). I used one of my old original metal magno valve stems for the repelling magenet/stem.

I modified the LED/LCD Lpr by drilling a small hole to hold the metal valve stem, which was cut to fit. The hole I drilled doesn't do any damage to the LPR whatsoever, and it is completely reversable. You could put the stock spring and valve stem in if you wanted.

I'll have to try to get some pictures to explain.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:27 PM #5
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You don't necessarily need to cannibalize a valve stem for the return magnet. You can just buy a rare earth magnet and glue it to the butt end of the LPR. A few of the people who've done DIY magnetic return have done it that way (using an opposing magnet glued to the stock valve stem though, not with the D-Lite valve).

One concern I might have with the D-Lite valve in an LED/LCD/IR3 era gun is that the LPR pressure is nearly double what it is in the A1, and the hammer weight is also significantly higher. Not sure how well it would wear.
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:31 PM #6
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I just used the two valve stems because it made the mod a little more stable. Just gluing the magnet on the end would have made it more likely to fail. By using another valve stem, I can be more sure that it won't pop off.

I undertand the concerns with wear. I'm going to be looking to reduce the hammer weight. I've run the LPR around 60, and the marker still rips, so I think that once I reduce the hammer weight, I should see a reliable setup. I wish I could find one of the nylon LCD hammers, but those are long gone.

I just like the fact that these older angels are fun to work on.

I still have to work out a way to get an OLED board in the frame. I wonder if a shocker board would give the room I need, along with an OLED and 9 volt battery. I'm sure I'd have to mill out the frame to do so, which would be worth it if the grips cover it all.
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Old 08-10-2012, 08:58 AM #7
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Got pics???
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Old 09-07-2012, 05:07 PM #8
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Interested in pics as well since I found my IR3 from storage and getting back into shooting shape.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:18 AM #9
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Interested to see pics and hear more about it. I've played with rare earth magnets, but found that the correct spring can have the same effect.
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:05 AM #10
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I'll get some pictures. Sorry for the delay guys.

Trevor - where did you get your springs? I've never been able to find a lighter one that would still seal well enough in an LED/LCD platform.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:06 PM #11
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we require pics...no pics than it didnt happen...wink
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:08 PM #12
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Well I care more about cost then pics. So how much do you think this will run us??
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:32 PM #13
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The required magnets and a tube of epoxy that should last you long past your lifetime would run around $10
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:34 PM #14
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Me make it, has Sheldon might say, dear Lord no.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:39 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DB-1071
Me make it, has Sheldon might say, dear Lord no.
Great quote - great show.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:52 PM #16
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As for the spring that I used... it took my hours and hours of tinkering to find the perfect one. I don't even remember where i bought that specific one because I went to a bunch of places.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:54 PM #17
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Harbor Freight sells a huge spring kit that is awesome to have around for just such occasions. Only costs about 6 bucks too.
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:03 PM #18
Methodcaptain
 
 
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Here are the pictures of what I did.

I had an old stem laying around, and cut it down to fit the hole I drilled in the LPR body.

Works great. Just checked the d-lite stem, and it doesn't have any abnormal wear after 6 cases.
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Last edited by Methodcaptain : 06-19-2013 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:29 AM #19
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I see how it is. I finally post pictures and I get crickets lol.

I do want to point out that you don't have to use this way. I just happened to have a seperated valve stem on hand. You can just glue a magnet on the end of the LPR. I think this way is a little more stable in the fact that you're not relying on glue/adhesive to hold up over the years.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:36 AM #20
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Dude sorry but it's football season!!!!
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:58 AM #21
trancer23
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lol yeah looks really nice. SO basically magnet to replace spring. and a dlite stem instead of the stock cupseal?

Were you able to reduce your pressures?
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