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Old 08-30-2012, 12:43 AM #22
Rebel_816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by U Mean Shenanigans? View Post
Any advice on getting that cocking rod loose of the ivg/hammer/valve.
its screwed into the hammer fyi. and no, oil wont hurt anything. best way to lube a cocker is to put a little 3-in-1 or paintball oil right into the asa and dry fire it a few times.

get two 10x32 threaded nuts. you can buy a bag of them for 75 cents at a hardware store.

heres what you do. theres a set screw in the back of that hex shaped knob on the cocking rod. take it out and remove the cocking knob. (remember how far it was threaded on)


thread them onto the cocking rod where the knob was. get a wrench, place it on the INSIDE one, closest to the gun, and turn it counter-clockwise to. it will tighten against the outer nut, which will turn the cocking rod. this way you can get a wrench on there and get some leverage and not have to use vice grips or anything that might mar it.

and to get the hammer to slide out of the body, theres a hole in the top of the body, right behind the feeneck. take out the bolt and insert an allen key down that hole to reach the hammer lug. the lug catches the sear in the frame and needs to be raised up (by turning counter clockwise) so the hammer can slide out. it can take a little fiddling to like the lug up with that hole, youll know when its in. they are hard to turn.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:44 AM #23
U Mean Shenanigans?
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Originally Posted by masterofTHUMBS View Post
Use some channel locks with a paper towel underneath to protect the cocking rod. Hopefully you can get it out with little to no damage.
Thank you sir. And big S/O to r/paintball as well.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:01 AM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overkill8000 View Post
but the membrane pad on SF frames goes bad quite often, i had this same gun, also the E1(just get diff trigger)/E2>SF anyday on any cocker with any parts... Also SF frame trigger guard is smaller,
Also you want someone to mod your nightkast PM HMCL281
Easy fix for that - vinyl electrical tape folded so it covers both sides of the flexible printed circuit for the membrane switch. The issue is the circuit rubs on the grip, and the paths get scraped off creating open circuits so the different parts of the switch won't work anymore. You can also fix it with some of that rear defrost wire paint stuff from the auto parts stores.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogzilla88 View Post
there are wrench flats on it, use those.

ff rams aren't rebuildable
The only ram that isn't rebuildable is one that is press fit. I believe the Palmer's rams are press fit. The ram the OP has is rebuildable.

I fix MP4 rams And the MP5 rams used in Autococker SRs.
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:55 PM #25
Hogzilla88
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Originally Posted by barrel roll View Post
The only ram that isn't rebuildable is one that is press fit. I believe the Palmer's rams are press fit. The ram the OP has is rebuildable.
he asked about freeflow rams. FF/moody/smc rams are press fit. I hate that, I have a palmers ram that's fubar'd that I can't do anything with
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:44 PM #26
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Yeah. Its definitely press fit on. Its just spinning...bought a new one anyways.

Also the cocking rod came out with some channel locks and some elbow grease
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:43 PM #27
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Hey everyone, wanted to give a big thanks, to everyone who helped me out.

Put a wgp tickler and freeflow ram with qev's, picked up a kaner barrel kit and put the eblade1 trigger frame on with a delrin wave trigger. Eventually going to drop a zeroB when i free a little more money up. Saving up to halfblock + feedneck mod my nightkast into a pump.


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