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Old 08-19-2012, 03:20 PM #1
U Mean Shenanigans?
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Getting back into the Cocker Game, Would love some advice

Hi everyone. So when I was younger, I had 3-4 cockers, but wasn't able to do anything with them because I've been self-financed since I was 12. During college I sold everything off to make ends meet. All I have left is a poor mauled Nightkast with eblade1 on it.

Now I've graduated, have a good job and really want a cocker to make my own. Decided to start something with pretty basic and semi modern to help with part upgrades. I have some good friends still playin d1, but Im going to just be in the rec/casual xball state of mind, and even some woodsball.

That being said, I grabbed a 05 Superstock from ebay for about 160 (seemed reasonable and hope I didn't overpay). She'll be here tomorrow, so i'm using today's anticipation energy on preparing upgrades.



First thing first I'm ripping that drop-forward off and putting a normal bottomline on there.

Since this is my first gun i get to have fun with, I wanna overhaul everything.
Ram
In terms of a ram I'm going to get this guy with a few of these.

LPR
Now with S/s's I've heard about LPR issues. So that moves it's way up to the top. Unfortunately I haven't found many helpful threads on a solid LPR that aren't linked to moodypaintball. And as you all know, moody's is gone. So I have no idea what LPR would be quality.

Regulator
From the pictures I can tell that's not the stock WGP reg. Maybe a CP? Im not sure. If anyone can ID it, is it worth keeping? Or should I grab a 2-liter or sidewinder

Valve
Obvious answer here is the mq2. Am i going to have to find one of these via a part out here on the nation, or is there any luck in finding a new one?

Feedneck
Trinity T-lock I have standing by.

Barrel
I have a stiffi for stiffi products, so I'll probably be grabbing either a kit or just a 689/691 set of 14 inchers (heh).

Board
Is it worth it to get a eblade 2 board? Replacing the whole trigger frame with an eblade2?


And my last question. Some sick bastard took a hack saw, and other sharp things to the Nightkast I mentioned earlier. There's literally cut marks everywhere (especially the feedneck). This thing is HEAVY as hell, and with such a mangled anno, i figured i'd get it halfblocked/pumped. Are there still people who will do this that are trusted by the community?

Last edited by U Mean Shenanigans? : 08-19-2012 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:43 PM #2
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1. the belsales ram is pretty. and a qev will definatley increase the bps, but isn't really necessary with todays bps caps. but if i were you, i would just get the qevs, since the STO rams are fairly decent rams.

2. get a palmers or nexus lpr

3. the reg, i believe is the dye hyper 2 regulator.

4. it would be very hard to find a brand new never used mq2, since everyone wants one put into there gun. but if you really want one, keep like 200 bucks laying around, because you'll never know when one is gonna show up.

5. definitely upgrade the board, with either an E2 board, or even a tadao.

6. and you should also get a beaver tail so that your backblock wont hit your mask.

EDIT: about the mq2 valve, theres one right now on ebay for 250
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Last edited by cruciatus111 : 08-19-2012 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:51 PM #3
U Mean Shenanigans?
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Originally Posted by cruciatus111 View Post
1. the belsales ram is pretty. and a qev will definatley increase the bps, but isn't really necessary with todays bps caps. but if i were you, i would just get the qevs, since the STO rams are fairly decent rams.

2. get a palmers or nexus lpr

3. the reg, i believe is the dye hyper 2 regulator.

4. it would be very hard to find a brand new never used mq2, since everyone wants one put into there gun. but if you really want one, keep like 200 bucks laying around, because you'll never know when one is gonna show up.

5. definitely upgrade the board, with either an E2 board, or even a tadao.

6. and you should also get a beaver tail so that your backblock wont hit your mask.

EDIT: about the mq2 valve, theres one right now on ebay for 250
Hey man, thanks for the advice. All of it has been duly noted. In regards to the reg, if it's a hyper 2 and good shape, ill hang onto it for now.

I would need to replace the entire trigger frame to put a tadao in because the tadao has an LCD and the worrframe does not (or the button holes in the correct place)?

With number 6, i'm getting rid of that awful looking dropforward so it won't be close, but I'll pick one up j.i.c.

Last edited by U Mean Shenanigans? : 08-19-2012 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 08-19-2012, 04:23 PM #4
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Ram: Eclipse or belsales w/ QEV's. You'll get a lot of "those aren't really necessary;" but they really do improve the markers function, dramatically.


LPR:
Eclipse is the golden boy here, but the AKA SCMIII, Palmers microrock, and the WGP Tickler are all great.


Regulator:
The reg in the pic is a dye hyper 2. Great reg, but meant for lower pressures than what most cockers run at. I would stick with the sidewinder plan.


Valve:
MQ valves are neat, but they're not something you really need. The only time you NEED an MQ is if you've midgeted a marker.

Feedneck:
CCM son, what are you thinking?

Barrel:
Get a kit, it's a must. I went with an SS freak kit, but I wouldn't be too quick to turn down any complete upper end barrel kit.


Board:
Earlier E Blades almost certainly had better boards than the stock WGP boards that came out later in WGP's life. A real E2 is better than a WGP knockoff (odd right?)

Anyway, good luck with getting everything set up. I say you ditch the giant drop and get a beavertail so you don't scratch up your lenses with your backblock hitting you in the face.

I don't know your air situation at your local fields, but a 68/45 is a much better tank than that steelie you have on there.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:44 PM #5
U Mean Shenanigans?
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Originally Posted by Dk-79 View Post
Ram: Eclipse or belsales w/ QEV's. You'll get a lot of "those aren't really necessary;" but they really do improve the markers function, dramatically.


LPR:
Eclipse is the golden boy here, but the AKA SCMIII, Palmers microrock, and the WGP Tickler are all great.


Regulator:
The reg in the pic is a dye hyper 2. Great reg, but meant for lower pressures than what most cockers run at. I would stick with the sidewinder plan.


Valve:
MQ valves are neat, but they're not something you really need. The only time you NEED an MQ is if you've midgeted a marker.

Feedneck:
CCM son, what are you thinking?

Barrel:
Get a kit, it's a must. I went with an SS freak kit, but I wouldn't be too quick to turn down any complete upper end barrel kit.


Board:
Earlier E Blades almost certainly had better boards than the stock WGP boards that came out later in WGP's life. A real E2 is better than a WGP knockoff (odd right?)

Anyway, good luck with getting everything set up. I say you ditch the giant drop and get a beavertail so you don't scratch up your lenses with your backblock hitting you in the face.

I don't know your air situation at your local fields, but a 68/45 is a much better tank than that steelie you have on there.
Hey thanks for the input. I guess eclipse all the way for the front end.

Drop forward and tank will be replaced when i get it tomorrow.

With the board, as i mentioned before, would i need to upgrade the trigger frame as well?
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:26 PM #6
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yeah, the worrframes dont have a window milled out for an e2 board, or you could get someone to mill out the back of the frame for it to accept an e2 frame
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:56 AM #7
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Ram - I'm a big fan of the MP4 rams, mainly because of their small size with built in QEVs compared to every other ram with QEVs bolted on to them. Plus I know how to fix them when they screw up (more often than not).

LPR - Palmer's or AKA, though the WGP Tickler is smaller than just about everything

Reg - I'd grab a reg off a Karnivore, a 06 Black magic or an SR. The WGP regs are more than enough. Anything beyond them is purely for aesthetics, though I like the way they look better.

Valve - MCarterBrown.com for the MQ2, or just get a MadMan spring kit and goto town.

Feedneck - whatever works

Barrel - you can skip the barrel kit if you get the right sizes. .689 is too large. You can pick up both sizes of Eigenbarrel (.684 and .678) for $39 a piece.

board - only worth getting a new board if you are going with an MQ2, otherwise stick with what you have. **** works and you can't screw it up. If you do get a different board, you will need a new frame (trigger should still fit). paintballgateway.com
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:21 AM #8
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if you decide to not get a kit, youll definately want something like a .682 or .684 size. paint has gotten a lot smaller the last few years.

also im fairly sure those stock lprs are internally the same as a tickler, just the tickler has the nice little adjustment knob on it. id change that last, if i felt it needed it. i had a karnivor which the tickler came stock on and it never game me issues. and if i did change it, it would have been an AKA hands down.

ccm feedneck. or theres a few cheap clone clamping ones floating around ebay. those guns have a removeable feedneck. look for 2k2 timmy/ STO threaded ones. the trinity one actually clamps over that one, it was made for the ones that werent removeable.

that dye reg should work great. i see no reason to change it.

personally ive never heard anything good about the worrframe/SF boards. but if it works go ahead and use it. but that would be the first thing i changed on that gun lol. pbgateway.com has the worrblade frames new still, still need to get the misc. parts like screws and whatnot. sear solenoid from that frame should drop right in. or its still pretty easy to find an eblade around.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:35 AM #9
U Mean Shenanigans?
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if you decide to not get a kit, youll definately want something like a .682 or .684 size. paint has gotten a lot smaller the last few years.

also im fairly sure those stock lprs are internally the same as a tickler, just the tickler has the nice little adjustment knob on it. id change that last, if i felt it needed it. i had a karnivor which the tickler came stock on and it never game me issues. and if i did change it, it would have been an AKA hands down.

ccm feedneck. or theres a few cheap clone clamping ones floating around ebay. those guns have a removeable feedneck. look for 2k2 timmy/ STO threaded ones. the trinity one actually clamps over that one, it was made for the ones that werent removeable.

that dye reg should work great. i see no reason to change it.

personally ive never heard anything good about the worrframe/SF boards. but if it works go ahead and use it. but that would be the first thing i changed on that gun lol. pbgateway.com has the worrblade frames new still, still need to get the misc. parts like screws and whatnot. sear solenoid from that frame should drop right in. or its still pretty easy to find an eblade around.
I have an eblade 1 I'm trying to sell. Is it better to put the eblade 1 on this and sell the SF frame?
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:10 AM #10
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Only if you have an MQ2.
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:27 AM #11
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Only if you have an MQ2.
Oh okay. What's the reason behind that?
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:50 AM #12
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The stock SF frame doesn't let you adjust settings like dwell, that you need to adjust in order to tune a MQ2'd 'cocker. Rate of fire isn't adjustable either, but it is capped at 18 bps. Like I said above - it works, and it works well. Your board settings being screwed up will never be the reason the marker doesn't work right with the SF board.
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:53 AM #13
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The stock SF frame doesn't let you adjust settings like dwell, that you need to adjust in order to tune a MQ2'd 'cocker. Rate of fire isn't adjustable either, but it is capped at 18 bps. Like I said above - it works, and it works well. Your board settings being screwed up will never be the reason the marker doesn't work right with the SF board.
Ahh okay, but the Eblade I was going to put in has a eblade 1.6 board. Should've mentioned that before. I'd like to put it on the gun and eventually drop a tadao in there.
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:52 PM #14
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but the membrane pad on SF frames goes bad quite often, i had this same gun, also the E1(just get diff trigger)/E2>SF anyday on any cocker with any parts... Also SF frame trigger guard is smaller,
Also you want someone to mod your nightkast PM HMCL281

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Old 08-27-2012, 09:47 PM #15
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So i put a new asa, ccm feedneck, delrin wave trigger and picked up a 68/45. Went to take it apart to lube it & replace the ram. Took the ram off the front block and tried to remove the arm, and it's not un-threading. Went to take the cocking rod out and it's in the valve pretty good. Im just gonna wd40 up the pump arm to get it off since the ram is messed up and I dont mind ruining it, but i obviously don't want to ruin the valve by spraying wd40 in there.

Anyone know any good ideas of removing the cocking rod and any info on how to take apart a free flow ram?

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Old 08-27-2012, 10:22 PM #16
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there are wrench flats on it, use those.

ff rams aren't rebuildable
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:26 PM #17
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Heat up where the arm threads on. They came with a sealant to hold it
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:53 PM #18
U Mean Shenanigans?
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there are wrench flats on it, use those.

ff rams aren't rebuildable
Well that's unfortunate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpmurphy View Post
Heat up where the arm threads on. They came with a sealant to hold it
Thank you very much sir. Took me awhile, but i finally got the "flame out" and the sealant was gone.

Last edited by U Mean Shenanigans? : 08-28-2012 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:03 PM #19
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Ill second that if your gonna get a new reg, get a sidewinder/SST
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:34 PM #20
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Any advice on getting that cocking rod loose of the ivg/hammer/valve.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:37 PM #21
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Use some channel locks with a paper towel underneath to protect the cocking rod. Hopefully you can get it out with little to no damage.
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