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Old 08-08-2012, 10:45 AM #1
chriscathro
 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Cybrid troubleshooting advice needed

Hi, Okay I know that the JT Cybrid gets a mixed rap but I bought 14 for a kids club with a very limited budget so please save the smart responses guys and girls. I have a serious problem here and need the best (helpful) advice you can give me and throw them in the trash can etc, will not be helpful. I took the markers out of the packaging and no paint has been fired. When I attached the CO2 and test fired them all of them rapid fired and I mean rapid! Any ideas on cause and fix? The instructions say option one broken shell? I assume that means a broken paintball? And says to field strip and clean to resolve, or to field strip and oil the bolt and striker. I can find no "striker" named in the diagram so I am assuming they mean the "hammer". Any help will be appreciated as the kids are meant to be using them for the first time at the weekend (11/12th Aug 12).
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Old 08-08-2012, 10:50 AM #2
GFX260
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lol, mixed rap? I never heard any mixed reviews

yes, striker = hammer

the gun "running away" is simply the hammer not catching on the sear. It could be that a bolt buffer (behind the hammer) went missing, the sear or hammer somehow got worn out, the hammer is upside down, the o-ring on the bolt or sear is messed up, or dirt/debris
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:44 AM #3
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Make sure your CO2 tank isnt low, first before anything else.
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:02 PM #4
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its probably low co2 if all of them did it
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:19 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFX260 View Post
lol, mixed rap? I never heard any mixed reviews

yes, striker = hammer

the gun "running away" is simply the hammer not catching on the sear. It could be that a bolt buffer (behind the hammer) went missing, the sear or hammer somehow got worn out, the hammer is upside down, the o-ring on the bolt or sear is messed up, or dirt/debris
^^thats is most likely the problem. If the sear doesn't catch it will result n the marker doing as it has. Low CO2 is a possibilty too. Not enough pressure to get the hammer to reset.
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Old 08-10-2012, 08:40 AM #6
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Low CO2 or all of them are set incorrectly. Try them with paint. Sometimes the backpressure of a paintball being present is required.

Otherwise, if you're not comfortable with a field strip, try a drop of oil in the ASA of the marker (where you screw the tank in), then screw the tank in and dry fire a few times without the barrel. Should work oil through to anywhere that needs it.
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:15 PM #7
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Thanks a lot guys it turned out that the problem was indeed low gas. At least in all of them apart from one which is leaking at the barrel. The trouble shooting instructions say to resolve this I need to replace the valve assembly. Anyone know where I can get parts for cybrids? Thanks for your help it is very much appreciated.
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Old 08-14-2012, 03:41 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscathro View Post
Thanks a lot guys it turned out that the problem was indeed low gas. At least in all of them apart from one which is leaking at the barrel. The trouble shooting instructions say to resolve this I need to replace the valve assembly. Anyone know where I can get parts for cybrids? Thanks for your help it is very much appreciated.
Glad you got it solved!
What I would try before buying new valve assemblies is put a little lube in it before you air it up, and fire 10-20 shots through it without the barrel. This should fix your problem. If it doesn't, you'll need a new cupseal, which is probably available through the JT site. What I've found with barrel leaks is usually just lack of lube, so if you put a little bit of mineral oil or something similar in there (not WD-40 or anything like that) it should fix your problem right up!
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:18 PM #9
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If you're getting a down-the-barrel leak, the first thing to do is to disassemble the gun and remove the valve, cleaning the cupseal and valvebody thoroughly. A small piece of grit or even a fragment of hair or clothing fiber stuck between the valve and cupseal can cause a slow leak. Also check the two o-rings around the outside of the valvebody that seal it into the body. Usually a leak from these won't sound like it's coming down the barrel, but with the front ring it's a possibility.

If that doesn't work, sometimes you can rehabilitate a cupseal by smoothing the bottom face of it out with very fine grit sandpaper, but this is only possible if you can detach the plastic part of the cupseal from the metal valvestem and reattach them when you're done. Often these two parts are threaded but in some cases they're press-fit, so once you separate them they're both ruined, unless you get lucky with superglue.

I'd contact JT first, but this guy on eBay is selling Cybrid repair kits that include a replacement cupseal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JT-Brass-Eag...-/380458158981

With as many rental guns as you have to keep working you could probably stand to have a few of these kits on hand anyway.


Last edited by The Inflicted : 08-15-2012 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:12 PM #10
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ok thanks again guys I will be trying the mineral oil suggestion first tonight. then move on to the others if that does not work. I will give you some feedback on what worked out for me in a few days.
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