The Dangerous Power Fusion FX is the third marker of the Fusion Series. Over the years, the Fusion has always been a FASOR type Stacked Tube Poppet. This means it has a bolt attached to a ram. The ram is shot forward using a solenoid but it is returned by a spring. The fusion comes complete with an oled display board with all the latest firing modes including any tournament mode you will ever need. It also has everything from the RAPS asa to a nice clamping feedneck along with Dangerous Power's switchblade trigger. The barrel is a 2pc 14inch barrel with a .689 back. For $500, it will be hard for any other company to beat this marker.
Shown Bellow is how the Fusion FX works. The picture is of a Fusion f7 but the design is the same.
Upgrade's Currently Available for the Fusion FX
TechT Hush Bolt
TechT LAW Ram
Offset detents/ spyder detents - More info on this at the end of the guide.
Violent PB Trigger
Fusion FX Tear Down Guide
If you Currently own the Fusion, Im sure you are pretty interested in how to tear it down and properly maintain it. Luckily for you, I put together a little guide on how to go over everything from the bolt down to the solenoid.
Before you get started on tearing down your fusion, make sure you have the following.
- Grease (I use lurker lube on the FX)
Violent pb jelly
Techt Gun Sav
- Allen Wrenches (if you can, you will want a second 1/4" allen wrench)
- Tweezers (optional but nice to have)
You can keep scrolling or click one of these links to jump to that section
Removal and cleaning of the bolt is a very simple task. Simply unlock the bolt from the ram by pulling the bolt pin upward, and then slide the bolt out the back of the Fusion's body.
Pictured Below is the Techt Hush bolt. Maintenance for the stock bolt and the Hush bolt is exactly the same. You just wipe the bolt down and call it good. If you would like, you can put a little grease on the orings of the Hush bolt but take care to not get any excess lube onto the bolt its self.
*Note that I have removed the front oring and middle oring from the bolt. You may or may not have to do this with your FX. I had a bolt and detent issue and I believe removing the front oring will prevent the detents from getting chewed up.
Rammer Removal and maintenance
Removal of the ram is very simple.
Remove the bolt
Unscrew the ram backcap
slide ram out
With the ram out, inspect the orings for damage. Assuming everything checks out, relube the rammer orings with your choice of grease. The ram's backcap could also use a bit of lube on it's oring as well. Before re installing the ram, make sure the ram spring is clean and good to go.
Pictured bellow is the Techt LAW ram. Maintenance for the LAW ram is identical to the stock ram. Just clean everything up and grease the orings.
Regular Bolt and Ram maintenance is all that your FX should call for after a day of play. You could actually go for a while without maintaining the rammer but considering it takes next to no time to remove the ram and clean it up, it would be wise to make it part of your regular maintenance.
The next section will cover everything else that has to do with the Fusion. Things that you wont/should not have to do on a regular basis.
Last edited by firefoxx04 : 08-04-2012 at 11:01 PM.
Of all the Dangerous Power regulators, I think this one is my favorite. The old regulators included a shim stack and the adjustment screws were VERY sensitive. The FX regulator has a spring instead of a shim stack and the adjustment screw is not as sensitive. Good job Dangerous Power
Things to note about the regulator. The factory fittings may not be any good. They are prone to leaking and sometimes holding onto the macroline and not letting go! The FX in front of me has fittings that work well so I did not replace them.
Start by removing the macroline from the fitting on the regulator. With the macroline disconnected, you can remove the regulator from the marker by twisting it counter clockwise.
IF your Fusion is like mine, the regulator is VERY tight to the body and wont come off. Luckily, the bottom of the regulator will accept a 1/4" allen wrench to remove it. When you re install the regulator, just make sure it is hand tight. No need to crank on it with an allen wrench.
With the regulator off, you are ready to separate it into two pieces. Most likely, the regulator is very tight and wont come off without some force. You can take a mouse pad and wrap it around the regulator and use that same 1/4inch allen wrench to loosen the bottom piece of the regulator.
IF that does not work, you can try taking a second 1/4inch allen wrench paired with a 1/8ich allen wrench and stick them into the top of the regulator. Combine that will an allen wrench on the bottom of the regulator and it should come free with some force. Picture shown bellow simulates what I am talking about.
The most preferable method would be to take a 1/4inch allen wrench to the bottom of the regulator and the proper sized top wrench. PLEASE NOTE. If the two regulator halves are so tight to them selves that the 1/4inch and 1/8th wrenches slip, they will start to scratch the inside of the reg. If this happens, do not keep trying! Go and source the correct allen key!
Here is a picture of the regulator separated into two parts.
The piston and spring should both come out at this point. Inspect the piston for damage. When I removed mine, I noticed a bit of wear on the piston its self that you can see in the the picture bellow.
*this fusion has at most 5 cases through it.
I am assuming that the extra wear on the piston is from spring to piston contact. When I greased the piston, not only did I grease the oring, but I made sure to get a good amount on the area that the spring rides on. This should help the metal on metal contact.
*** note that when using a shim stack regulator, you want to keep lube off the shims whenever possible. Shim to piston contact has never caused a problem in a dangerous power regulator. ***
Lubing the regulator's piston oring is the only real maintenance you should have to do on a semi regular basis. If you would like, you can further disassemble the regulator to lube the adjustment screws oring.
To get to the adjustment screw, you have to remove the piece that sits above it in the bottom half of the regulator.
You will need to use two 1/4inch allen wrenches to get it out. Pictures Bellow
Make sure to clean and lube that little piece and set it aside.
Now its time to remove the adjustment screw. Take an allen wrench to the adjustment screw (just as if you where adjusting your fps) and bring it all the way in (clockwise) and it will simply fall out.
Make sure to clean the threads and lube the oring before reinstalling
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE note that when installing the adjustment screw, it needs to go all the way into place. You put it in the same way it came out. Once it starts threading into place, use the allen wrench to turn it all the way out (counterclock wise) as if you are trying to increase your fps.
You can then re install the little orange piece that you removed prior to removing the adjustment screw. With that piece back in place, you will want to bring the adjustment screw back in (clockwise) to make sure your gun is running at a very low pressure. If you leave it all the way out, it may over pressurize the solenoid. The only reason we bring it all the way out in the first place is to make sure that it is not blocking the orange piece from going back into place. You will see what I mean when you take it apart and look at it.
That is it for regulator maintenance. I am impressed with the FX version of Dangerous Power's regulator. It is very well put together. The most you should ever need to do is clean the piston and relube the one oring on it.
Last edited by firefoxx04 : 08-06-2012 at 12:08 AM.
Maintenance of the expansion chamber and valve pin should not be required at all but if you end up having an issue or just feel like doing so, here is how.
Remove the Expansion chamber. You may need an allen wrench to do so but I was able to remove it with my hand.
When it comes out, you will find a "shim", spring, and valve pin.
*take carefull note of the how the shim goes into place. the flat side of the shim faces the expansion chamber while the other side fits nicely into the spring
Start by cleaning the expansion chamber and then relube the one oring on it.
Once that part is done, you can clean the valve pin and inspect for anything out of the ordinary. Also, the valve pin spring can be cleaned up. I have heard that DP recommends greasing the spring but this should not be needed. It is up to you.
That is it for valve pin maintenance. There is not much going on in that area of the marker so it should not be regular for maintenance nearly as much as the ram or the regulator.
Break Beam Eye and Detent Maintenance
The Fusion FX comes from the factory with Break Beam eyes and Spyder type detents. These two components should only have to be cleaned by a simple q-tup. You simply stick a q-tip or cloth into the breach and clean out that area. In the event that you chop a ball (paintball breaks inside the breach) or have eye problems (marker firing without a ball in the breach), you will have to go even further.
To remove the eye or detent from the marker, you will want to start by removing the eye cover.
*please remember to NOT tighten the eye cover to much when it comes time for reinstall. The screws can strip easily. Just give it enough to stay snug!
With the eye cover removed, you will have access to the eye and detent. You can pop the eye out of place and wipe it down with a towel or cloth. I had problems with my fusion firing even when I had no ball in the breach. My eyes looked clean but I wiped them down anyways, this fixed my problem!
You can also remove the detent and replace it if necessary.
If you find that an eye wire is cut or damaged and you need to replace it, you will need to remove the frame from the body in order to get the old eyes out and the new eyes in. I will go into detail on how to get the frame separated in the next section. (Solenoid removal)
Solenoid Removal and Maintenance
Removal of the Solenoid should only be done if you are having bad consistency problems, marker firing problems, or you know you have a bad solenoid and need to replace it.
If your gun is under performing (but still shooting) you should make sure the ram, regulator and battery are up to snuff. A weak battery WILL make a gun shoot horrible.
To remove the solenoid, you need to start with removing the grips from the marker. With the grips out of the way, you can remove the battery and unplug the eye wires and solenoid wires.
With the wires unplugged, you can remove the two frame screws. I find that removing the regulator makes removing the front frame screw much easier.
With the frame screws out, you can carefully slide the frame off the marker. Make sure the wires do not get caught on anything.
Now you have access to the underside of the marker body. The only thing you should EVER have to remove from this area is the solenoid. Those other spots that accept allen wrenches do not need to be removed so do not worry about them. Just remove the two small bolts holding the solenoid to the body.
*be careful to not lose the two tiny orings that are on the underside of the solenoid. They seal the noid to the body of the marker.
The Solenoid piston is accessed by removing the cap that accepts a flat head screw driver. This cap is locktighted from the factory. You do not need to lock-tight it back in place but you can if you want. Make sure you use blue lock-tight and do NOT use Teflon tape.
I did not take pictures of how to take the noid apart simply because my marker is working flawlessly, however, you may need to take your solenoid apart for whatever reason. Luckily Intense Image has provided us with a video on how to take apart a G3 noid. ALL dangerous power Solenoids as of right now are the same when it comes to taking them apart. Just do what he does, and you will be fine.
That is everything you need to know when it comes to maintaining the Fusion FX. Any questions or comments, feel free to PM me or post in this thread. Everyone is here to help others!
The next post is going to go over the factory flaws that some of the Fusion FX markers have suffered from, and how to fix them.
Last edited by firefoxx04 : 08-04-2012 at 11:00 PM.
Factory FLAWS - TechT has your back. HUSH bolt and LAW ram
It always seems that there is something holding the Dangerous Power markers back when it comes to being a truly great marker. The first few markers ever released came with the silver regulator piston that was prone to breaking. The G3 trigger sometimes needed to be polished in order for the board's eye to register a trigger pull, the rev-i sometimes had the pressure gauge crack and the G4/spec r had terrible bolt stick out of the box due to bad lube. Of course all of these problems have been fixed and all of those guns perform very well once they are set up to do so. They are among the most reliable due to their simplicity. Unfortunately, the Fusion FX is no different. It has everything it needs to be a great great marker but some how Dangerous Power managed to screw part of it.
If you are like me, your Fusion FX had problems with the bolt getting stuck in the forward position and not getting returned. The cause of this problem seems to be from the spyder type detents getting caught between the bolt and the body of the marker. Usually this problem occurs after a ball break in the breach. It is unknown to me why dangerous power went with the spyder detents. All of their markers before hand used spring loaded ball detents that worked flawlessly. Non of my fusion F7s or G3s regularly chopped paint. MY FX seemed to do it all the time and have the weird bolt issue. Fortunately, Techt came in and taken care of us.
Techt has always been there for the Dangerous Power community. They noticed the Fusion FX had a terrible bolt system and they set out to fix it. It did not take them long to release the Hush bolt and LAW ram to the market. The Hush bolt comes with some new detents too. They recommend trimming the detents until the Hush bolt clears them without much issue of them getting in the way. I also took precaution and removed the front most oring from my hush bolt to further clear the detents when the bolt moves forward.
I am not one to tell people to buy upgrades for their markers but I truly think this system is a must have for all FX owners who are having issues similar to mine. The Hush bolt and LAW ram made my FX feel more like a high end marker. Before it would shoot kind of rough and loud. Now it feels more like other stacked tube poppet markers that are on the marker currently for $200-$300 more.
TechT products for Dangerous Power markers can be purchased here.
I did include info on the fittings in the regulator section. Not as far as replacing orings though. in my experience, once a dp fitting is leaking, its time to get a new one. They are no good in the first place but they have been getting better.
I actually have a set of fittings from my first g3 i ever had.. they still have the line on them because they will NOT let go.
added more detail to the 1/4inch and 1/8th inch allen wrench trick.
NOTE, when using two wrenches to make one big wrench, they might slip and start to scratch the inside of the regulator. Obviously you dont want this to happen.. it will not effect performance but the point i am trying to make is, if the wrenches start to slip, STOP what you are doing and source the correct sized allen key that fits the top of the regulator. The only reason I even mentioned the "combined allen wrench trick" is because it works but not if the two halves are that stuck.
The best way to avoid this the second time is to not tighten everything down like a guerrilla.