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Old 07-31-2012, 12:24 PM #1
bayoubeatdown17
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dm7 help,

recently bought a dm7, was having problems with the bolt sticking forward just far enough for a ball not to fall into the breach, but with the eyes off the marker would still cycle just not shoot paint. upon reading into the issue i found most people saying it was the lpr, so i degassed and reset the lpr to the stock settings, now i'm getting a small leak out of the back cap and the marker will not cycle. i can hear the noid clicking and have checked it for leaks, including the gasket, but nothing. i recently changed and lubed the orings on the bolt and changed batteries to no avail. i'm not going to rule out orings still because i know just because they've been changed doesnt make them good. any other suggestions before i do though?
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:32 PM #2
speedy2k4
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New battery?

Double check that the LPR is high enough. Try giving it another full turn or two counterclockwise and see if it makes a difference.
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:57 PM #3
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I agree. Try moving the lpr in or out a couple turns and shoot it a couple times after adjusting. I'd probably suggest setting the lpr with the gun degassed.
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:09 PM #4
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brand new battery that was put on a tester, i've tried moving the lpr around a few times. the leak is whats getting me. if it were just the lpr wouldn't the bolt stay stuck forward and possibly leak down the front of the breach? its coming from the back cap and not cycling at all, i'm thinking it might be the hpr and possibly the tophat but i wanted to get some feedback before i went through the motions of rebuilding the bolt again.
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:13 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayoubeatdown17 View Post
brand new battery that was put on a tester, i've tried moving the lpr around a few times. the leak is whats getting me. if it were just the lpr wouldn't the bolt stay stuck forward and possibly leak down the front of the breach? its coming from the back cap and not cycling at all, i'm thinking it might be the hpr and possibly the tophat but i wanted to get some feedback before i went through the motions of rebuilding the bolt again.


How big is the back cap leak, sometimes on the dm 6-7's if you tighten the LPR cap really tight it will leak, try backing it out a little, or try taking the cap completely off, and if it's still leaking, take your LPR out, and check the green orings around the LPR, then i'd replace the LPR screw seat, the hocky puck looking thing.

Also is the gun making any sort of "poofing" sound when you shoot it, indicating the air is even getting to the bolt?
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Last edited by grss429 : 07-31-2012 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:34 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayoubeatdown17 View Post
brand new battery that was put on a tester, i've tried moving the lpr around a few times. the leak is whats getting me. if it were just the lpr wouldn't the bolt stay stuck forward and possibly leak down the front of the breach? its coming from the back cap and not cycling at all, i'm thinking it might be the hpr and possibly the tophat but i wanted to get some feedback before i went through the motions of rebuilding the bolt again.
If it's leaking out the bolt cap hole, it's the tail o-ring on the bolt. But those are often sensitive o-rings, and they often leak lightly when you air the gun up and stop once you shoot it once or twice. Obviously you can't shoot it if the gun isn't cycling.

They will also leak if the HPR pressure is too low. Double check that as well.
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:53 PM #7
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possibly the orings on the bolt. i agree, i've been watching alot on LPR settings.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:30 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grss429 View Post
How big is the back cap leak, sometimes on the dm 6-7's if you tighten the LPR cap really tight it will leak, try backing it out a little, or try taking the cap completely off, and if it's still leaking, take your LPR out, and check the green orings around the LPR, then i'd replace the LPR screw seat, the hocky puck looking thing.

Also is the gun making any sort of "poofing" sound when you shoot it, indicating the air is even getting to the bolt?
yeah i'm getting the poof, that means air through the noid at least. its an audibly different sound from when youre just listening to the degassed noid clicks. all this has been extremely helpful, i still don't have an answer for the cycle issue. the hpr being too low was something i hadnt thought of i don't have a chrono at home though so i'm afraid to start adjusting it too much.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:34 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayoubeatdown17 View Post
yeah i'm getting the poof, that means air through the noid at least. its an audibly different sound from when youre just listening to the degassed noid clicks. all this has been extremely helpful, i still don't have an answer for the cycle issue. the hpr being too low was something i hadnt thought of i don't have a chrono at home though so i'm afraid to start adjusting it too much.
Cylcing issue, could mean alot of things, your bolt orings are sticking and making the bolt have alot of friction, could be your HPR is too low, your LPR is too low. just go stock on the lpr, 4 turns out.


and if worse come to worse, you can send it to me and i'll fix her up for you, not trying to say i'm better or anything, it's just alot easier for me to fix it seeing what it's actually doing then trying to explain it you know?
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:17 PM #10
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You set the board to stock settings already haven't you? I'd try doing that as well if you haven't tried yet. Also, make sure the ABS is on. It's the first switch on the board I believe. It's the one that's not to go into programming mode.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:54 PM #11
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its a tadao board but yeah i've factory reset it, i'm pretty stumped lol
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:43 PM #12
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have you serviced the lpr recently?
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:20 AM #13
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turn your hpr up a half turn
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:32 PM #14
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i've tried moving the lpr, i'm leaning towards orings on the back of the bolt now.
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:55 PM #15
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HPR, the one you adjust for your velocity at the chrono station. In the foregrip, vertical part under the barrel.
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:57 PM #16
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Did this get fixed yet?, any updates? if anything bro, I'm serious send it to me, atm, I have 2 guns I'm fixing but I should have them done monday..
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Old 08-10-2012, 08:52 PM #17
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got to a field yesterday and played with it for a little while. got lpr and hpr set, no more leak and the marker cycles, i blew up some paint in my hopper though haha, found a video online about how to set regs for the best consistency from billy wing, that helped a lot got it all tuned up and shooting money.
thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:30 PM #18
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Quote:
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got to a field yesterday and played with it for a little while. got lpr and hpr set, no more leak and the marker cycles, i blew up some paint in my hopper though haha, found a video online about how to set regs for the best consistency from billy wing, that helped a lot got it all tuned up and shooting money.
thanks for all the help guys.
great, what did the issue turn out to be
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:59 AM #19
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it was a combination of things actually, mostly the lpr & hpr. the orings were fine, but like i said i blew paint up. the bolt actually cracked the eye pipe so i had to replace it. i'm guessing stock settings were too high at this altitude. atmospheric pressure had a little to do i'm sure, but once i got it all tuned up its probably the most consistent marker i've ever owned.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:43 AM #20
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Altitude doesn't really affect paintball gun operation, since you are talking a difference of ~3psia at 7000ft vs sea level and paintball guns are working in the hundreds of psi range.

Naturally aspirated internal combustion engines on the other hand...
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Old 08-11-2012, 11:00 AM #21
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I guess I didn't think about it like that. Needless to say though, it's shooting excellent now
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