[Tronpxs]

Originally posted by litma2.

You guys asked and i realized that after my long week of mud, rain, and scenario ball that it would be best if i completly stripped down my dm4 and cleaned it up a little.... SO heres the proper way to clean a dm4 LPR!


PLEASE KEEP IN MIND: I'm going to try not to use and technical lingo in order to keep it n00bie friendly...


1. remove the grips off the grip frame so you can access the electronics... NOW take a pair of needle nose pliars and remove the solinoid and eye harness wires from the board *******BE CAREFUL****** These wire connections are ***VERY*** Fragile! They can easily break off



2. Remove the grip frame and flip the body upside down so you can access the LPR screw. It is the small set screw that is DIRECTLY behind the grip frame screw near the back of the body. Remove this screw...



3. Take the proper size hex key and remove the LPR Cap located just below the bolt...



4. now take a 10/32 screw / breech rod, and screw it into the copper fitting.... once screwed in, pull the entire lpr out... there are other ways the get the LPR out but this way is the proper way



5. Now set everything aside except for the LPR.....
At this time, wipe down the entire outside of the LPR assembly



6. Now take the same hex key you use to adjust the LPR pressure and remove the copper colored screw in the LPR~~~ NOTE: You will need to use a rag to grip the LPR assembly as you unscrew the copper screw


When you have the screw removed you will end up with this.... (thats the screw on the right with the little oring on it)



7. Now take a small and soft object (pencil eraser works for me) and stick it down the LPR and pres down on the little nipple looking thing so that the piston falls out along with the spring...



8. Now basically all you do now is wipe all the parts down very good and re-apply lube to all the orings (not alot since the lpr leads directly to the solinoid and excess lube can get into the noid)

you end up with this finally....



9. Now all you do is push the entire LPR back into the gun and you screw the set screw back in... NOTE: There are two little umm... Grooves? on the lpr where set screws will fit; a single round one and a long hotdog looking one... be sure the hotdog looking one is facing down so that the setscrew AND triggger frame screw will fit back in.


10. Put the LPR cap back on (no picture needed)


11. Next... Reattach the solinoid and eye harness wires to the board... (no picture needed).... THE solinoid wire goes in the left and the eye wire goes in the right... now reattach the grip frame to the gun


12. LASTLY... RESET YOUR LPR!!!!!! The stock lpr setting is 75 psi which is 5 turns out.





ANY DAMAGES DONE TO YOUR DM4 WHILE CLEANING THE LPR WHILE FOLLOWING MY DIRECTIONS ARE YOU FAULT COMPLETELY AND I CANNOT BE HELD LIABLE! tHESE SIMPLE STEPS WORK FOR ME AS THEY SHOULD FOR YOU. ANY DAMAGES DONE ARE BECAUSE OF THE CARELESSNESS OF THE OWNER

[nfg2k]

NICE PICS ARE BACK

[Tronpxs]

Originally posted by nfg2k
NICE PICS ARE BACK

Yep I talked to FT and he said it was cool if I redid them and hosted the pics on my site.

www.paintballmedia.net/pbnation/dm4 for the rest.

[nfg2k]

4. now take a 10/32 screw / breech rod, and screw it into the copper fitting.... once screwed in, pull the entire lpr out... there are other ways the get the LPR out but this way is the proper way

how does that work, screw a screw in the copper fitting???

[Tronpxs]

Autococker cocking rod screws into it and you just pull out the lpr AFTER you have unscrewed the set screw under the body.

[nfg2k]

**** that blows
any other ways?

[Tronpxs]

Originally posted by nfg2k
**** that blows
any other ways?

Slam it on your palm or risk scratching it and use an allen or similiar tool. I always use a cocking rod I had left over.

[HK Aaron Is Agg]

Originally posted by nfg2k
**** that blows
any other ways?

Get the allenkey that fits, and tilt it to the side so it puts pressure against one side of the screw and pull while your pushing against the screw and tilting the allenkey to its side. So it should come out, mine did.

[JToy]

nice job homie. lol

[EclipseFS]

the pics arent workin now

[InFaMoUs CaSpEr]

how often should the lpr be lubed?

[ayabaloo]

what is 10/32 screw / breech rod?

I have removed the set screw and Cap and trying to remove the Lpr...

EDIT: Nevermind, i foudn the screw rod. But i can manage to pull the LPR out!
ANy help?

[Tronpxs]

Originally posted by ayabaloo
what is 10/32 screw / breech rod?

I have removed the set screw and Cap and trying to remove the Lpr...

EDIT: Nevermind, i foudn the screw rod. But i can manage to pull the LPR out!
ANy help?

Make sure you unscrewed the right one. If your gun is leaking now you took out the wrong screw.

[ayabaloo]

I got it. I just wasnt pulling hard enough

[sivs]

Do I lube the piston as well as the orings? And what else should be lubed besides just the orings?

[KiKaLs]

How often should this be done?

[DCI GUY]

I just lubed my LPR with Slick Honey.

A tip:

If you don't have a breech rod, go to your local hardware store and buy a 2" screw with 10/32 threading. For $0.14 you can solve your LPR woes.

Also, you need to pull very hard to remove the LPR. I'm 6'2'', average guy and I had to pull to the point that I thought I was going to rip it out of the gun.

[Shifty995]

Do you have to push really hard to get it back in? Or does it just slide in?

[DCI GUY]

No, you don't have to push hard to get it back in.
It doesn't really slide in, but it goes in easily.

[JTizzle]

Do you screw in the LPR cap in all the way, they back it out? Whats the best 2 1/2 turns out? or 5 turns out? I need help on this.

[sivs]

It's not the cap that you adjust bro, its the brass screw. Tighten downt he cap, then go and tighten in the brass screw all the way, back it out about 2 and a half turns if you lubed with slick honey, around 5 (stock) if you have the dye lube.