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Old 07-24-2012, 09:18 PM #1
Pooty51
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The inside look at the creation of a Pooty GT

The below project was not indented to be photographed. Just another fun project on a new gun.

At some point during the work I decided to start taking pictures for some odd reason… But I got off 30 pics for your eyes if you so wish to follow the below mess…Go for it

I haven’t seen any custom GT’s so I thought I would share some of the work I did to mine.

Take it as it is.

In the end I am more then happy with how it turned out. The changes are not drastic. So if you own a GT then you should be able to appreciate what is below.

I do wish I took more pics from the very start..Sorry indeed.

The below is only the outcome of the work. Not the methods of how it was done. I do this for fun and absolutely enjoy making a stock gun into my own custom 1-1 creation.


Part 1 (Two pages)


Ok, So I myself never owned a Clone. I had a chance to get one so I made the jump. Gun came in and right away my eyes started to look at things to remove and change.

I had four goals I planned to get done with this Gt
1st = Shave down the upper rear part of the gun to make it more tube like and remove some weight
2nd= Round the rear latch
3rd= Remove the tail under the rear of the gun
4th= Remove any shape edges from the grip frame

The below is a picture of the GT as it was. (past owners pic). Bad lighting so check the below pic out.


Just a general GT pic I got off goggle. Great side view to compare the below to


This is when I started to take pics. I know..I kick myself in the ***.
You can see I already took the gun apart. Anno removed. These are the three parts of the gun I wanted to work on.
The Body, frame and back latch. The guts were left on the back latch to hold the latch in place while I was working on the gun.
Already you can see I removed most of the latches edge and started to round the rear of the body.


In this pic you can kinda see how the rounding is going. I still have more to remove. The tail is also removed in this pic. Once you start you gotta just go go go. Keep it slow and hope to not go to far. Both sides must be the same. See a hole in the body and its trash bound.


Back cap pic. Very rough. Still need to remove more metal.



Side pic of the gun with the back cap installed. This is what it looks like when I am working on it.
At this point I started to really realize that there is no turning back. I am fully commited to messing up the gun by removing too much material or it coming out perfectly how I wanted it. So ok, Lets go at it more. Remember..There is no template or imaging to look at to follow. No measurements to check. All hands and eyes from this point.


Side view. This shows the shape its starting to go and show how the tail is now gone.


This pic shows how uneven the top of the body is still.


At this point I thought to myself..I might want to make sure I haven’t removed too much metal off the top of the gun.. Cutting it close now. So lets just work on the sides of the gun. No more off the top for a while. Getting kinda close and anno is going to also remove a small amount.


Ok now its starting to take shape and most of the rounding from the body and back cap are done. At this point I realized most of the dangerous work was done. Just need to plain sand the gun to get its final shape. Grabbed a Coke..lol . Metal all over the garage as I get up and look around…Fine dust.

Top view


Rear


Side


Now for some 800 grit hand sanding


Coming out nice. Cant wait to be done at this point. My hands hurt. I think I was 1 ½ hours into it..


View of how much metal I had removed off the top of the gun. Much more was removed off the upper sides for sure.


Back cap check. This was by far the hardest part. Three points of this back cap could have gone bad. One part in the below pic was hairs away from it..


Right here you can see just how close I came to cutting into the square hollow part of the latch..dude


I am 6.2 and 220 lbs. So my fingers are not as small as a 16 year old. So I removed the sharp edge on the frame to my liking. Now my hands will be happy!
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:18 PM #2
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Part 2

Now remember, any part that was machined is now gloss/polished. The rest of the parts are Dust. So at this point I had to remove the anno off the rest of the parts to make it better for the glass blaster. Pressurized air is combined with glass to etch the metal and bring it back to the dust look it was before.


I wanted all the parts to have the same finish. So all the metal was sent to be glass blasted. Added a freak back and luxe tip to the mix. I have allot of inserts already so why not have that barrel option also..


After the glass work was done it was off to anno. Hmm. Color choices now..Then two weeks wait for anno. Bam parts back…






Holly crap…Wow that was way too close..Look at the metal left on the top of the latch! No problem..lol


Next was to polish the anno on the outside of the bolt and the inside of the can and keg. This is a new gun. So this will mimic the parts being broken in. Very smooth now and shoots more like a old broken in gun. The parts were already very smooth to begin with. So this is just icing on the cake!


Final pics



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Last edited by Pooty51 : 07-24-2012 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:34 PM #3
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Post video man
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:36 PM #4
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SO dope Chris. Please post the video
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:41 PM #5
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Wow awesome job man, looks fantastic!
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:00 PM #6
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Ok. Uploading the video now to my youtube acct. I will post it up as soon as its done. Its just a video showing the gun and the lines
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:18 PM #7
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Kids... pay attention... that is how you're supposed to polish a bolt. Notice the anno is still in tact.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:24 PM #8
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I like how it looks with all the sharp edges gone. great job
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:26 PM #9
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The point of polishing a metal part is to remove machine marks. But macdev does a very very good job with there metal work. Almost zero machine marks. So polishing the anno is the way to go. Very very slick

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I like how it looks with all the sharp edges gone. great job
Thanks guys for the good words. I was 90% sure I wasn't going to do this thread. Then today I said even if the haters come out I dont care and started to type this thread out.
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Last edited by Pooty51 : 07-24-2012 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:31 PM #10
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Thanks guys for the good words. I was 90% sure I wasn't going to do this thread. Then today I said even if the haters come out I dont care and started to type this thread out.
We try to keep the hater count to a minimum in the MacDev section!
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:34 PM #11
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So far the MD crowd has been very nice. Makes me smile when I pick up this GT ..lol
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:44 PM #12
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That is insane, amazing job. Your work is seriously art. Keep it up, i always look forward to seeing your projects.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:49 PM #13
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Video just added to the thread and below. Sorry for the wind in the audio.

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Old 07-24-2012, 10:57 PM #14
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Guys how tight should the valve be in the valve keg. Mine is hardly broken in but it falls out with an incredibly light tap. Hell if the back oring isn't seated in there it just falls straight out. I ask because I feel if I polish the ano it won't stay on there at all. Also what kind of polish did you use pooty?
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:00 PM #15
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Guyshow tight should the valve be in the valve keg. Mine is hardly broken in but it falls out with an incredibly light tap. Hell if the back oring isn't seated in there it just falls straight out.
It should be tighter than that. You should hand fit your o-rings to the point where you can tell they are making decent contact and forming a good seal.


Pooty, did you happen to take before and after weights of the gun?
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:00 PM #16
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Looks great. Would love to have my trigger frame done.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:05 PM #17
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Amazing work and a great read
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:05 PM #18
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Quote:
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Guyshow tight should the valve be in the valve keg. Mine is hardly broken in but it falls out with an incredibly light tap. Hell if the back oring isn't seated in there it just falls straight out.
How tight? It should not fall out for sure. You will loose efficiency I would imagine for sure. Even after polishing the kegs inner anno it was a little tight for me. The friction needs to be there. But a medium amount I find is the best for shot count and smoothness. A good middle ground. The below pic is my setup. I wanted to run a little looser valve oring setup. So I went with urethanes that ran a little looser but still hold a medium grip. All orings will not be the same exact size. So swap out one oring at a time and until you find that good fit

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Old 07-24-2012, 11:08 PM #19
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It should be tighter than that. You should hand fit your o-rings to the point where you can tell they are making decent contact and forming a good seal.


Pooty, did you happen to take before and after weights of the gun?
No. But somebody please get a good weight of their GT. Mine came in at 1lb 15oz with batttery
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:12 PM #20
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I wish I had a scale that went down that low. Perhaps I'll invest in one. What duro urethane o-rings are you using and where did you get them? I've been wanting to try some since I've been experimenting with many different types and would love to know.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:02 AM #21
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They are 70 duro. I have no clue were I got the. I have a bunch that I have collected
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