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Old 09-21-2012, 10:28 AM #316
tim@techtpaintball
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC DIesel View Post
Damn nice work rk.

Yea it does not jam or stick at all, but you can see a TINY bit of the bolt from the feedneck. I don't care, it works flawlessly. I took it out to a reball field today and was amazed at the efficiency, it seems almost 50% more efficient (probably really like 40, I didn't get exact numbers). I used to have to refill every two games and with the new bolt installed I was doing it every three and still had air! I know their are some huge variables, but I was amazed at how efficient it was. With an overbore at that. I will try to get solid numbers soon (not as solid as rkenders though haha).

The other thing that really impressed me was how slick the operation was. When I test fired the gun it just stayed there whereas the stock bolt does have some recoil (which I didn't realize until after I put in the new bolt). It was crazy smooth, even my friend who talked **** about TechT had to shut up after shooting it. Also the tendency for the barrel to rise while firing is completely eliminated as well. This bolt really made me love my spec r so much more.
Man... people talk crap about us?
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:46 PM #317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim@techtpaintball View Post
Man... people talk crap about us?
lol. Occasionally.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:05 PM #318
xmc1146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim@techtpaintball View Post
Man... people talk crap about us?
you have to ignore those ignorant bastards! they dont know ****.
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:39 PM #319
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So the pages are live gentlemen... happy hunting.
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For more info on the products I make go to www.techtpaintball.com
Please email me if you have a question, PLEASE DO NOT PRIVATE MESSAGE ME.
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:00 PM #320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim@techtpaintball View Post
So the pages are live gentlemen... happy hunting.
was the G3 bolt face shortened also?
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Old 09-22-2012, 04:25 AM #321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim@techtpaintball View Post
Man... people talk crap about us?
Like someone said, He's very ignorant. He thought that the techt bolt would make it kick more. I explained it was 66% lighter then stock and simple physics would dictate less recoil but he wouldn't believe me. It wasn't until after he shot my gun w the bolt installed did he realize techts awesomeness, his exact words were "your guns hella sick now".lol
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:41 PM #322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim@techtpaintball View Post
To answer the question about the bolt head...
It was more so an issue with the bolt stop. We were getting sealing issues- some not all. It was allowing the bolt head to creep. We also shortened the head slightly just for good measure and adjusted the bolt stop. All has been good for quite a while now.
Thanks guys.

Oh BTW the new pages are up for the G4 and Spec-r, I am working on the G3 this morning. If anyone wants to start a new thread for that...? Go for it.

I will try to post a link to a new promotion we will have going soon- it will save you guys some money. That is probably going to be done through facebook- so you may want to check it out and "like us".
Thanks again.
Hmmmmmm....
Like Techt? I don't know....

LOL

What's NOT to like about Techt?

Thanks everyone for the props and Tim, thanks for the new bolt!!!

I Used my G4 for about half the day on Saturday with the new bolt just to see how it performed. It did fine for several games and then I started to notice FSDO. I had just lubed the gun the day before so there was little chance it was out of lube. I turned up my dwell from 12 to 15 and kept playing. The gun went back to working for the couple more games I played with it before going to a different gun. I think more use is in order to break in the new bolt and that will be the end of any issues.

For anyone who is considering getting a Techt bolt...
The Techt bolt for the G3's and G4 are a "MUST HAVE" upgrade. Get one!!! I currently own a G4, PMR, Reflex, Drone DX, Cyborg RX, G6r and 2 cockers. The PMR and Reflex have Techt bolts and it does help them some, but not like the G4. I'm not bragging by telling you about the guns I have. I'm telling you about them so that you can see that I have a variety of guns and know what a good shooting gun is. The Techt bolt takes the G4 which is an average shooter and puts it into the above average range. Is it as good as the G6r, Cyborg or Drone? No. Is it as good as the PMR or Reflex? Pretty close.
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Last edited by rkenders : 09-24-2012 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:30 AM #323
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Hi I am new here, (all the way from South Africa)

@rkenders: Did you get any blowback with your modded bolt?

Thanks
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:45 PM #324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JObscur3 View Post
Hi I am new here, (all the way from South Africa)

@rkenders: Did you get any blowback with your modded bolt?

Thanks
None at all. I took a square of single ply toilet paper and draped it over the feed neck and dry fired the gun...no movement at all. If a piece of toilet paper wont move, then there's no chance there's much if any air blowing up the feed neck.

Edit:
Van PM'd me and pointed out that a better test would be to fire a single ball with the barrel on. I had tested blow back that way too and experienced no blow back. when I responded to JObscur3, other things were going on and I forgot to mention it.
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Last edited by rkenders : 10-13-2012 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:16 PM #325
xmc1146
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depending on how short you cut it, it should have zero blowback.
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:00 PM #326
rkenders
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Originally Posted by xmc1146 View Post
depending on how short you cut it, it should have zero blowback.
Follow my original post and you won't have any problems. Much more than that and you get blow back. I didn't go further so that blow back was not a problem. Keep in mind that you are reducing the over all tail length just a tiny bit.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:40 AM #327
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i had to change the back bolt o-ring to smaller one to keep the bolt from creeping up. Chopped about 20 balls at the field by the end of the day. hot paint+creeping bolt = a mess. Seems to be ok now, only shot a few but, the bolt seems to go back to the proper position now.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:46 PM #328
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RKenders did you cut your bolt tail .077 or .026? I read thru the thread and its not clear. I know you recommend .026.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:10 PM #329
xmc1146
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im pretty sure he cut it 3 times.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:30 PM #330
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Has anyone tried plugging the tail of a modded bolt? If it worked for Techt there must be some merit to it.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:30 AM #331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tygen1 View Post
RKenders did you cut your bolt tail .077 or .026? I read thru the thread and its not clear. I know you recommend .026.
I cut the bolt tail 3 times for a total of .077". In the step by step part I clearly state I took the tail down 3 times and each time by .026".

The tail plug is to eliminate bolt chirping or whistling. Blow air across a pen cap or any other small tube with a capped end and you will have a high pitched whistle. The plug stops the bolt tail from being a whistle every time the gun fires. It makes the gun a little bit quieter. There's no benefit that I can determine for any other reason.
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Last edited by rkenders : 11-02-2012 at 12:37 AM.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:01 AM #332
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The tail plug on the techt bolt is there to improve consistency.
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:57 PM #333
rkenders
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justicexd View Post
The tail plug on the techt bolt is there to improve consistency.
Really???!!!! My new bolt is less consistent than my modded bolt. That may change in time. What I know is that in other guns that use the L7 bolt that chirping is a problem and so the bolt tail is capped to stop the noise. Both of my Proto guns have capped bolt tails.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:39 PM #334
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I got my DB meter a week ago. Perhaps I'll have time soon to do some sound testing of the different bolts.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:58 PM #335
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Originally Posted by rkenders View Post
I got my DB meter a week ago. Perhaps I'll have time soon to do some sound testing of the different bolts.
Get on it
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:12 AM #336
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I built something a few months ago and didn't say anything about it until I had a chance to try it out for a while. I had to drag an answer out of Ninja to the simple question of "what size particulate in the air will cause significant tank regulator failure?" After being reported twice to the pbnation moderators, I finally got an answer. Ninja made excuses about how unreliable or "dangerous" an inline filter was. They claimed that you couldn't build a filter for less than $60 and then the liability cost would make the price ridiculous. Well situations arose and life got in the way of various projects I had in mind. Finally I got around to building this simple little device. I built the filter because about a year ago I went to a large scenario game. The organizers brought in a rented air system. I had 4 tanks at the time and 3 of the 4 tank regulators failed within minutes of being filled the first time on the rented air system. That was one huge coincidence!!! All 4 tanks had GA Myth 2 regulators and had been purchased new about 3-6 months previously and had never given me any trouble. The fourth regulator for whatever reason worked fine. I couldn't prove that the air fill was the problem since I had no way to trap debris from going into regulators and the guys running the air fill station swore they kept there equipment clean. Ummm yeah! Right! After the scenario was over I sent the 3 failed regs off to Guerilla Air for service. They had to replace the regulator seat in all 3 of them because they had stuff embedded in them from the air source. It has been almost a year since getting the regs serviced and they have worked perfectly ever since. I finally got around to building an inline filter after looking online for anything like it that wasn't going to be expensive. My solution is simple and inexpensive. I spent less than $30 for everything and it works well. I have trapped various bits of stuff in the filter while at my paintball field.



Parts:
1. Male and female quick disconnect fittings. Take them off an old remote coil or buy them new somewhere. They are readily available for less than $15 for both fittings.

2. 1/8" NPT threaded pipe fitting with internal threads. I used a steel one, but brass would work too. You can buy them at any hardware store for a couple dollars.

3. Stainless steel filter screen. I scrounged mine out of an old car part. You can buy filter screen at any hardware or automotive store. Make sure it's stainless so it doesn't rust! DON'T USE PLASTIC SCREEN!!! I have found appropriate filter screen in faucet parts, various car parts and air compressor parts. Look around, you will find what you need.

4. Teflon tape.

What to do:
1. Cut the stainless steel screen into 2 circles that fit snugly inside the pipe fitting. Make sure to NOT leave any loose strands of stainless wire that might get into the regulator. I took the 2 circles of screen and placed them 45 degrees off from each other so that the screen holes didn't line up with each other which effectively makes it harder for stuff to pass thru the filter.

2. Put teflon thread tape on the threads of of one quick disconnect fitting and thread it into the pipe fitting until it is tight. If your pipe fitting is too long for the other quick disconnect fitting to thread in far enough to touch the other fitting then you may need an o-ring that fits snugly inside the pipe fitting. The idea is to trap the screen between the inside ends of quick disconnect fittings. An o-ring will probably be enough to make up the difference so that the screen can't move. My pipe fitting was just about perfect with both fittings threaded in all the way to hold the screen between them.

3. Put the screen inside the pipe fitting so that the 2 circles are pressed against the already installed quick disconnect fitting. Make sure the 2 screen pieces are NOT lined up with each other.

4. Put thread tape on the other quick disconnect fitting and thread it down tight inside the pipe fitting. Use an allen key to push against the screen to confirm it can't move.

5. Hook it up to a fill whip and open the valve to blow out any debris that might be inside that you missed.

That's it! Keep it in your pocket and attach it to your tank fill nipple and to the fill whip when you need to fill your tank. Just take it back off when done. My filter had trapped various bits of stuff that would have otherwise gotten into my tanks in the past couple of months. It has worked perfectly and given me no trouble at all. It takes an extra second or so to attach it between the fill whip and tank fill nipple. Cleaning out the filter is super easy. Just knock the input side on a table and any loose bits will fall out. You could also blow air into the output side which would blast out anything stuck in the screen. It doesn't catch everything that could get into your tank, but the goal was to stop junk that is large enough to cause reg leaking or failure. I have 3 Macdev guns and the inline regulators all have a filter screen. In all of those guns when I service the regulators I have found bits of stuff on the filter screen. I'm curious to see if they stay clean now. In my DP G4 the solenoid developed issues. When I took it apart I found a small piece of hard black "something" that was keeping it from working. Once I cleaned out all the ports inside the solenoid and relubed the spool, the solenoid worked perfectly. My guess is that the black thing got in the solenoid from dirty air.
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Last edited by rkenders : 11-26-2012 at 02:57 AM.
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