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Old 01-17-2012, 05:06 PM #1
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Regulator recommendations/suggestions

I'm working on Nerf vortex launcher and need an inline regulator that can maintain a consistant 130-140psi from a HP tank input (800psi).

I had an old ICD regulator (new/unused) from an old BKO lying around, but it's way too inconsistant.

Any suggestions and/or recommendations?
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:59 PM #2
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Quote:
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I'm working on Nerf vortex launcher and need an inline regulator that can maintain a consistant 130-140psi from a HP tank input (800psi).

I had an old ICD regulator (new/unused) from an old BKO lying around, but it's way too inconsistant.

Any suggestions and/or recommendations?

I've used AutoCocker and CP/Empire Regulators with great success on my Launchers. I started with Ion regulators and it works fine but does need to be adjusted ever once in a while.
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Old 01-17-2012, 08:01 PM #3
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Palmers reg.
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:31 AM #4
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I've used Autococker regs for years. 80-500 psi internally adjustable. Very CO2 tolerant though I use air. Rebuild kits are $12. Last time looked they were new at about $65.

I got mine used because everybody wanted an externally adjustable reg for they autocockers. Picked them up cheap out of the drawer at the paintball shop. That was back WHEN there actually were local paintball shops.

Palmers are high flow and good regs as well.
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:24 PM #5
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Palmer Stabilizer with a low pressure kit. I use one on mine, never had a problem with the pressure creeping up or spiking. High price, but worth every cent.
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:30 PM #6
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Thanks...I think I'm going with a Palmers fatty stabilizer. According to the web site, 0-400 and works with a wide range of input pressures. Getting one used.
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:48 PM #7
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I've used Autococker regs for years. 80-500 psi internally adjustable. Very CO2 tolerant though I use air. Rebuild kits are $12. Last time looked they were new at about $65.

I got mine used because everybody wanted an externally adjustable reg for they autocockers. Picked them up cheap out of the drawer at the paintball shop. That was back WHEN there actually were local paintball shops.

Palmers are high flow and good regs as well.
Thanks. I've been using your shorty design. My air tanks are all empty, so to test I'm using a small compressor to pressurize the extinguisher tank. My limit from the compressor is 140psi and the results at 130-135 are not particularly impressive.
Do you see a significant change in velocity as pressure is increased from say 135 to 145? It seems like there's a pretty good increase between 135 and 140. My hope is that the next 5 to 10 psi will be all I need. I have a 150psi relief valve and just purchased a 165 so I could run at 150.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:46 AM #8
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That Shorty runs 190 fps with that short 20" barrel and 145 psi. When I went to 190 psi, I only got an additional 10 fps. Very dissapointing. But when I used a 36" barrel at 145 psi, the Nerf DISSAPEARED over the tree line on the other side of the park. 100+ yards. Way over 230 fps...

You will notice the difference with a psi increase up to a point using a shorter barrel. But to really see a big difference you may have to add barrel length.

The reason is we only use the top half of the air chamber's air during firing. The 150-80 psi half. The rest is wasted air. The Nerf is long gone out that short barrel. The valve only opens so fast and can move only so much air at a given pressure. By adding barrel length, we give the main valve MORE time to move more air though it and get very significant increases in muzzle velocity.

You will have to settle on some sort of compromise in velocity / range and how compact and light you want it to play with.

I would suggest you have TWO barrels. One shorter than the other so you can set it up for the field you play at. If there is a lot of open ground without trees hanging over it, you might want to use the longer barrel, carry that extra pound of weight, and have the RANGE.

If there is a lot of tight cover and overhanging trees, and plenty of places to ambush a tank, you might want the shorter barrel.

For the first one, start with a 30" barrel and start cutting off an inch at a time until you get down to 230 fps at max psi. Then make another and start cutting it down until you find your comfort level for portability, weight, and performance.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:09 PM #9
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Thanks. I've been using your shorty design. My air tanks are all empty, so to test I'm using a small compressor to pressurize the extinguisher tank. My limit from the compressor is 140psi and the results at 130-135 are not particularly impressive.
Do you see a significant change in velocity as pressure is increased from say 135 to 145? It seems like there's a pretty good increase between 135 and 140. My hope is that the next 5 to 10 psi will be all I need. I have a 150psi relief valve and just purchased a 165 so I could run at 150.
Check your trigger. Make sure it's exhausing the air fast enough. If you are using a Shop blow gun as a trigger I normally will drill the holes larger to allow faster release of the air from the trigger. It opens your main valve faster. I'm currently building another smaller LAW with the barrel about 18" and am getting 185-205fps at 125psi. The trick is to keep the nerf in the barrel as long as possible and opening the main valve as fast as you can.

The way I keep the nerf in the barrel the longest is using a homemade detents. It allows the slow moving air around the nerf for a faction of a second.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:08 PM #10
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Check your trigger. Make sure it's exhausing the air fast enough. If you are using a Shop blow gun as a trigger I normally will drill the holes larger to allow faster release of the air from the trigger. It opens your main valve faster. I'm currently building another smaller LAW with the barrel about 18" and am getting 185-205fps at 125psi. The trick is to keep the nerf in the barrel as long as possible and opening the main valve as fast as you can.

The way I keep the nerf in the barrel the longest is using a homemade detents. It allows the slow moving air around the nerf for a faction of a second.
Thanks for the advice. My biggest fear is that I had made the equalization hole in the piston too large. I'll try modifying the blow gun trigger.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:12 PM #11
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Just did some testing of two same size barrel one without and the other with a Detent. There was a 17-20fps different in speed. Used the same Launcher just changed out the barrel.

What range are you getting at 135psi? And how long is your barrel?
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:50 PM #12
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Just did some testing of two same size barrel one without and the other with a Detent. There was a 17-20fps different in speed. Used the same Launcher just changed out the barrel.

What range are you getting at 135psi? And how long is your barrel?
Please describe how you implemented a detent.
No range measurement yet. All testing is indoor, but it's clearly weak. Another problem I might have is twofold. One, the nerfs I have are the newer ones (slightly smaller diameter), and two, I trimmed the fins so there is little drag. The nerf easily drops into the barrel and slides all the way down. I'll try one untrimmed as that will hold the nerf in place longer than the untrimmed.
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:56 PM #13
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Breakthrough! I was going to drill out the shop blow gun and realized there was a nozzle in the end. I've been testing inside my garage. I took out the nozzle and almost put a nerf through the door. I'm pretty sure I'll be able use trimmed fins so I can front load and avoid having to use/build a breach loader.

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Old 02-05-2012, 10:44 AM #14
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Muzzle loaders are OK until you get a wet, muddy, paintball gooh Nerf that won't slide down the barrel. You can use schedule 20 PVC for a barrel which has a larger ID bore.


Here is a link how to build a sliding breech loader or pump loader:


http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3363634


2-3 hours over a weekend not counting the Quest to find the slip fittings.

Here is a pic of my Nerf detent. Just a piece of nylon cord.



Post some pics when you get a chance.
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:20 PM #15
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Muzzle loaders are OK until you get a wet, muddy, paintball gooh Nerf that won't slide down the barrel. You can use schedule 20 PVC for a barrel which has a larger ID bore.


Here is a link how to build a sliding breech loader or pump loader:


http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3363634


2-3 hours over a weekend not counting the Quest to find the slip fittings.

Here is a pic of my Nerf detent. Just a piece of nylon cord.



Post some pics when you get a chance.
That is very cool. Love to see it shoot. Could you post a video of it launching a nerf rocket?
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Old 02-05-2012, 03:15 PM #16
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Muzzle loaders are OK until you get a wet, muddy, paintball gooh Nerf that won't slide down the barrel. You can use schedule 20 PVC for a barrel which has a larger ID bore.
...2-3 hours over a weekend not counting the Quest to find the slip fittings.
Here is a pic of my Nerf detent. Just a piece of nylon cord.
...Post some pics when you get a chance.
Any time I'm in a hardware store I look for the slip fittings with no success to date. I also wonder about the internal irregularity of the barrel with a cut out for a breach loader.
I tested the launcher outside yesterday. With a barrel that extends about 1-2 inches past my tank and at about 135psi I was easily shooting about 70 yards with a low trajectory. When I put on a full 24" barrel and raised the trajectory, I hit the roof of a house over 100 yards away! The nerf also seemed to fly much straighter with the longer barrel. Not sure if thats a function of barrel length or faster fps. It will be fun testing various length/pressure combinations. I'm reasembling now (making a few tweaks) and will post pics soon.

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Old 02-06-2012, 09:31 AM #17
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Breakthrough! I was going to drill out the shop blow gun and realized there was a nozzle in the end. I've been testing inside my garage. I took out the nozzle and almost put a nerf through the door. I'm pretty sure I'll be able use trimmed fins so I can front load and avoid having to use/build a breach loader.
I though about asking you if you removed the nozzle piece..

Only problem with front load like that is you can't really run around with a pre-loaded LAW since the nerf can side out of the barrel. Unless you always have the barrel aiming up. The Detent will add some more speed too. Boom Master uses cord I use hard plastic strip that I fold a couple of times on one end to make it higher when glued into the barrel. The added height holds it in place longer.

Longer barrel will stabilize the nerf longer.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:28 PM #18
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...I'm reasembling now (making a few tweaks) and will post pics soon.
I got side tracked with a home remodeling project. I found 3 slip fittings so I can start working on a breach loader. I also may try the threaded fitting mentioned in the 'new to the law making' thread. (tmaurielllo is my brother btw). Here's where I'm at with my Boom Master style shorty:





My regulator will go in between the ASA and on/off. The quick disconnect will allow me to move my air source from gun to LAW quickly (and under pressure) on the field. For now I connect to a small compressor (145psi max) for testing.

I will either find a use for the ASA mounting holes or cut them off.

What does everyone use for a barrel blocking device?
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:41 PM #19
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Nice work on your LAW. Tippmann used to have a barrel sock that worked nicely on the LAW barrel. It was one they made for the flatline I believe.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:41 AM #20
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I use a screw-in PVC plug into a threaded fitting. Drill some holes in the cap to vent air in case of an accidental discharge or some dummy forgets to take the cap off when they got onto the field.... So embarrassing.... I would also consider not gluing that fitting on but using 2-3 screws to hold in on. In case you want to redo the barrel, you can save the fitting and slide off the breech loader.

Some sights might look good on that ASA.

You did see the link how to make and how not to make a sliding breech loader?

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3363634

You will lose some air leaking out of the sliding breech so don't go cutting the barrel off until you get that made and tested.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:47 PM #21
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I use a screw-in PVC plug into a threaded fitting. Drill some holes in the cap to vent air in case of an accidental discharge or some dummy forgets to take the cap off when they got onto the field.... So embarrassing.... I would also consider not gluing that fitting on but using 2-3 screws to hold in on. In case you want to redo the barrel, you can save the fitting and slide off the breech loader.

Some sights might look good on that ASA.

You did see the link how to make and how not to make a sliding breech loader?

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3363634

You will lose some air leaking out of the sliding breech so don't go cutting the barrel off until you get that made and tested.
Thanks for the advice.
I did find the slide fittings for your breach loader design at my local ACE. I'm planning to try the shorter 3-fitting version.
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