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Old 05-02-2012, 03:12 PM #43
gamesondemand
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We're usually there early, around 9am til we run out of paint, so if you do show up sunday I'll be on the lookout for ya. It'd be nice to finally meet you
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:30 PM #44
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Quote:
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Would it have been better if I hadn't ever released this information? It was a company decision to keep the loader simple and not try to confuse people with the ability to adjust settings.

It was my decision to try and help a small number of people by showing them how to adjust their own loaders if they want to.

I'm trying to do the best thing by our customers. Please tell me what you would have preferred the situation to be so we can take it into account in the future
Wanted to take a moment and say thanks to Simon for releasing info that wouldn't have otherwise made it to the masses.

I'm a gear-nerd, so any bit of performance that I can tweak out of my setup is appreciated.
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:07 PM #45
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:12 PM #46
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Simon... I'm glad to find out about being able to adjust settings and understand in principle why the settings were kept secret. But, I wish you had shared this secret a while back...
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:18 PM #47
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I went into the editing mode and now its flashin red instead of green. Is there a way out of that back to green?
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:24 PM #48
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Quote:
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Simon... I'm glad to find out about being able to adjust settings and understand in principle why the settings were kept secret. But, I wish you had shared this secret a while back...
Me too.

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I went into the editing mode and now its flashin red instead of green. Is there a way out of that back to green?
Yes, you changed the function that is being adjusted, push the left button. It should cycle from green to orange to red to blue and then back to the beginning. You can cycle around as many times as you like.

When you get to the function you want to adjust push the right button the number of times for the new setting. If you want the speed to be 3, you push it three times. Then wait a few seconds and the left yellow LED should flash back three times to show you the new setting. If you are happy with that setting just turn it off. If you want to change it, enter the new number with the right button. If you want to adjust a different function push the left button to move to the next function.
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:34 PM #49
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thanks simon. Wanted to change my speed down one notch.
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:15 PM #50
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Thanks for sharing man...
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:51 PM #51
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Simon,

I was one of the people who was having paint issues with my Z2.
What speed setting do you suggest to help minimize paint breakage in the hopper while maintaing the ability to shoot 12.5 bps
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:59 PM #52
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The slowest speed you can get away with that allows you to shoot reliably and consistently will be the gentlest.

I'd start on 2 or 3 with the green led setting and see how that goes. Maybe start lower and if you can't hold a stream then turn it up. Keep motor sensing turned on, which is 2 flashes of the red LED.

Any of the settings will give enough speed to do 12.5bps, but the lower settings may not have enough torque to feed it consistently when the hopper is jammed full.

I know some people have been able to run the older prophecies on setting 1, but that was always too low for me to be happy with the consistency on my guns. It does vary though due to part and component tolerances.

As ever the most gentle set up you can do is the slower speed and RF activation.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:02 PM #53
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I'm sitting here just FIENDING to get my Z2 back from Kee now.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:10 PM #54
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The slowest speed you can get away with that allows you to shoot reliably and consistently will be the gentlest.

I'd start on 2 or 3 with the green led setting and see how that goes. Maybe start lower and if you can't hold a stream then turn it up. Keep motor sensing turned on, which is 2 flashes of the red LED.

Any of the settings will give enough speed to do 12.5bps, but the lower settings may not have enough torque to feed it consistently when the hopper is jammed full.

I know some people have been able to run the older prophecies on setting 1, but that was always too low for me to be happy with the consistency on my guns. It does vary though due to part and component tolerances.

As ever the most gentle set up you can do is the slower speed and RF activation.


Thank you sir. I am waiting to get mine back from Kee and I will report.

I have the RF kit so i'll run it on 2 with Rf enabled. I'll keep everyone updated.

Thanks!
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:13 PM #55
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Ok Simon....my hoppers are on their way to Alfred. I was using v2 boss bolt axe at 4ms dwell shooting 280+/-4 with an Ifit and the stock barrel. Blew up my and my sons z2. Any idea why? My sons is the one the video. This "empire ambassador" is just curious how to make my toys perform on Sunday.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:22 PM #56
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With the original prophecy I always ran a setting of 1 and that covered me for 12.5 and 15 bps without hiccups so you can get away with it if you are comfortable at that setting
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:26 PM #57
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If ever you have aftermarket parts in an Axe and it's breaking paint the first thing I recommend is remove them, put the gun back to stock and then test again. Especially if you are seeing paint blown up back through the feed tube of the gun and into the loader.

Typically paint broken by a loader will be seen as small marks of paint on the edges of the drive carrier fins, or as barrel breaks.

Barrel breaks can also be caused by worn ball detents allowing the ball in the breech to roll forwards, or the ball rolling back too far into the bolt, and that allows the second ball to drop down and get clipped by the bolt and then it explodes when it is shot.

Breaks with paint all around the inside of a loader are usually caused by bad paint that is breaking before it even gets to the drive system, or by loading a broken ball from a pod, or from getting shot through a speed feed (oh what a mess that makes!).

Breaks with a lot of paint back up in the feedtube are often due to blow back from the gun and the balls in the feed tube being blown back up and breaking on each other or inside the loader due to the amount of gas bypassing the bolt and entering the hopper.

You can test for that by removing the hopper, putting two balls in the feedneck of the gun and shooting the first one. If the second comes up more than a couple of inches the issue is blow back. I have seen some guns shoot the ball up high enough and fast to break it on the ceiling

I am also not a big fan of the smaller control bores on a barrel. A longer control bore allows you to run a lower pressure and get velocity. These are things that help shoot fragile or lower quality paint better (which we have seen a LOT of lately).

Hence why the latest barrel I have designed, the one that comes with the Sniper has 7.5" control bores.

Last edited by Simon : 05-02-2012 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:35 PM #58
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It's a shame you guys didn't release that as a kit instead of the relabeled freak kit.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:38 PM #59
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I am still trying to get it released as a separate kit. I know that Ross at Boss Paintball has been splitting up Snipers on occasion and selling the barrel kit separately.
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:53 PM #60
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Thanks for the info Simon!
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:07 PM #61
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Even though stock settings have been working great, it's nice to know just in case.


Now..how about them 240 count nose?
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:20 PM #62
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Barrel breaks can also be caused by worn ball detents allowing the bolt in the breech to roll forwards of back, and that allows the second ball to drop down and get clipped by the bolt and then it explodes when it is shot.
Can you explain the part in bold a bit more? (I assume you meant the ball in the breach, not the bolt as stated...)

I have brand new detents, but there is about 3/4 of a centimetre roll back & forth between my detents and the bolt when there's a single ball in the breach. I tend to get mostly barrel breaks., very rare that there's paint in the breach, but it does happen from time to time, mostly just on the tip of the bolt and the spring. I find it when I clean my gun after a day of play. Running the Boss Infamous bolt with the short spring, the bolt tip sits just behind the feedneck when at rest.

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Old 05-02-2012, 08:34 PM #63
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Bah typo and I got ahead of myself, sorry.

It should read "Barrel breaks can also be caused by worn ball detents allowing the ball in the breech to roll forwards, or the ball rolling back too far into the bolt, and that allows the second ball to drop down and get clipped by the bolt and then it explodes when it is shot."

There shouldn't be that much room for the bolt to accelerate before it hits the ball.

With the stock bolt the rubber tip should stick INTO the breech by about 1mm and there should only be about 1-2mm of run up before the bolt touches the ball. This is very important.

The ball detents should hold the ball in the breech just back from the centre of the feedneck hole when you look down on it from above. This means that any pressure from the balls above actually push the ball in the breech back into the bolt rather than forwards away from it.

Try putting the stock internals back in and see where the bolt sits. Then play with it that way and see if the ball breakage still occurs.
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