Originally Posted by Gereima
I recently picked up a 09' UL SLG and love it so far. The only problem is I want to have the best SLG. There truly is very few upgrades on the market now, so the only other way to go is mods. I have seen no mods for the whole bolt assembly and air flow.
Some mod idea
*Polishing the whole bolt assembly
This will make the actuation of the parts much more smoother, but you will likely have to change the Orings out because the tolerances after polishing will have changed
*Dremeling the bolt face to better cup the ball
Well please be sure to proceed knowing that if too much material is removed, there might be ball-roll-back, which will be an issue with the paintball-to-eye registration
*Adjusting the sear spring
Shortening the spring is out of the question. The stock length is what tends to work the majority of the time unless that there's a problem -- lengthening the spring will shorten the life of the battery because the solenoid has to try a little harder to compensate for the extra spring tension/length. This may also affect dwell as well
Some things I noticed
*Weres the valve?
There is no valve, neither is there a pneumatic solenoid -- the SLG uses a dump chamber with the bolt back seems to act as a valve, so if that counts as a valve or not is beyond me
*Bumpers wear down way to quick
Which bumper are you referring to?
I've read that the stock factory black external bolt rear bumper tends to wear out quick, but this was later updated to the orange colored bumper, which was later updated to the latest green colored bumper that supposedly lasts a lot longer than all of the previous colored bumpers. However, with my stock black bumper, it has been going strong after quite a bit of use, but that is probably because I lubricate it often with DOW/silicone
*Silencer on the bolt?
Believe it or not, but the silencer will actually cause problems with the bolt assembly, or the entire actuation of the marker. Why is this? If you inspect the silencer and the bolt tip and fit them together, you will observe that they fit together rather roughly instead of being a loose fitting. Well what happens if the silencer somehow swells or is off center with by being put together casually (slightly incorrectly) or simply becomes that way by normal usage? It turns out that if this occurs, the bolt will have a harder time actuating, which will require a higher input pressure to compensate for the excessive friction, this then would account for the "full-auto" syndrome because of the higher pressure against the sear -- additionally, this would also cause premature wear on the seals and perhaps beyond
Any thoughts, Ideas, or Enlightenment would be greatly appreciated!
Now let me expand on the "full-auto" syndrome. It's a problem that has to do with the mechanics and pressure of the marker. The mechanics being the sear and springs as well as the lubrication. The sear might not be catching the bolt because its spring might have too low of a compression rate or it might be a smidgen too short. Additionally, over-lubrication might lead to sear to skip under the bolt resulting in it not catching. The pressure of this issue has to do with the the HPR's input with being too high and at the worst in being too low. We're talking extreme ends of the spectrum here -- too low being at a barely functioning marker where the bolt doesn't have the pressure to move fully backward and catch the sear, which results in a "auto-like" symptom, and the other side of the spectrum where a too high of a pressure means that the bolt is over-pressurized to the point that its too energized for the sear to handle. So there indeed seems to be a sweet-spot concept here. One of the things that I have been looking at to perhaps reduce the likelihood of the auto-syndrome is to install a front-to-rear bolt spring, or "spring-assisted-bolt-mod". The problem seems to be that the bolt needs help staying in the back-wards position, so if by having a spring at the front of the bolt, the bolt is assisted backward to have a higher chance of catching the sear. It's still a concept, but I can provide a picture reference if needed