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Old 04-28-2014, 09:24 AM #1765
BigEvil-AO
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I just picked up a suitable Virtue board for mine. I think this will be a huge improvement. My stock board always did weird things.
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:35 AM #1766
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yea the hater boards liked to run away sometimes
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:44 PM #1767
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I dont know about that
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:34 PM #1768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sickorsane47 View Post
I dont know about that
oh no, they are sketchy or or just plain wonky. i have mine that is set on semi. never changed the modes, never changed the RoF and it will continue to add in a shot or 2 at the end of a string. it acts like there is a shot buffer or something. i wouldn't trust the board to be used in a tourney where the refs watch the rof of guns used.
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:50 AM #1769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobody609 View Post
oh no, they are sketchy or or just plain wonky. i have mine that is set on semi. never changed the modes, never changed the RoF and it will continue to add in a shot or 2 at the end of a string. it acts like there is a shot buffer or something. i wouldn't trust the board to be used in a tourney where the refs watch the rof of guns used.
What this guy said. I just put a Virtue in it and I cant wait to try it.
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:14 PM #1770
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My board doesn't even stop at just adding a shot or two to cheat....there have been several occassions where my board actually broke off in the middle of a fire fight, and before I could do anything about it....or try to reconnect the wires and the battery, ........it had run down the field and bunkered 3 other player on its own. More disturbingly I am pretty sure I saw the light flash yellow in a morse code sequence spelling out S-I-S-S-Y....how much was that Virtue board?
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Old 05-04-2014, 08:27 AM #1771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringwraith View Post
My board doesn't even stop at just adding a shot or two to cheat....there have been several occassions where my board actually broke off in the middle of a fire fight, and before I could do anything about it....or try to reconnect the wires and the battery, ........it had run down the field and bunkered 3 other player on its own. More disturbingly I am pretty sure I saw the light flash yellow in a morse code sequence spelling out S-I-S-S-Y....how much was that Virtue board?
I picked it up used, It was like $50. If you go that route be careful, don't get the NT board, it looks close but doesnt fit.
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:20 PM #1772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigEvil-AO View Post
I picked it up used, It was like $50. If you go that route be careful, don't get the NT board, it looks close but doesnt fit.
LOL.....I think you lost the sarcasm in the translation......actually my Hater's have been ok so far...
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:24 PM #1773
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That is the one brilliant thing about the ZR-1 that people overlook. While most small company markers focus on proprietary ideas to try to be become big companies or to fend off copycats, the Zodiac relied upon a lot of easily available existing components, especially in regard to the breakable parts. I cant tell you how many cool markers I have had that become door stops because one key part breaks and simply cant be replaced or easily so.
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:34 PM #1774
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:30 AM #1775
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Have been able to put a few cases through my ZR1 the last couple weekends.

Couple problems first weekend:
Breaking paint at least one ball break with marbs every 2-3 pods..
inconsistent 279, 284, 288, 305, 287
Paint was too large for the locking feedneck, the feedneck was milling reduces the diameter just enough to not feed a marb at .685. Not talking the odd football shaped ball either, just a ball turned just the right way wouldn't go through.
major FSDO as in the paint not even leaving the breach.

Second weekend:
cleaned off the hater and used a super thin amount of lurker lube to let the o-rings wear in a little. o-rings were only wet with no extra. FSDO much reduced.
I took some emery cloth and enlarged the removable locking feedneck to match the body. had 3 times when the much larger .689 dye CG needed an extra spire button push to force it through, but did not need to remove the loader and hand load like the weekend before.
Still breaking dye CG, still inconsistent.

Going to re-check the HPR lube and o-rings for issues, but If I cant reign in the consistency or ball breaks this one might have to go even with how smooth it shoots.

clean marker before play, detents and eyes clean and free.
Green bolt
HPR set to 210 turned LPR until cycle +2 notches.
Weather 75 degrees
Dwell week1 5ms
Dwell week2 7.5ms
ABS 15
Final HPR after chrono to 290 fps = 250psi (both weeks)
PSP3 12.5bps
eye delay week1 3
eye delay week2 5
First weekend lube: factory fresh from Ken (hater)
second weekend lube: lurker
barrel week1 .685 paint marbalizer
barrel week2 .691 paint dye cg
tried to underbore each week with barrel breaks. these BL barrels were a slight overbore with paint unable to roll far into the barrel.

same paint, same barrel, same loader, Vicv1 Vcomm had zero breaks
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Last edited by vector911 : 05-12-2014 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:57 AM #1776
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your hpr is way high stop it at like 220 max and run lpr just a little higher. what tank are you using. make sure your dwell isn't to high. there shouldn't be any fsdo. the hater is junk i always have used monkey poo on mine. i know my zr1 loved lube maybe try a little extra
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:12 AM #1777
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So set to 220psi and use the lpr to adjust over the chrono?
Dwell was listed in my post.
Ninja tank 520psi tested output.
Fsdo second week with less lube is almost gone.
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:30 AM #1778
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yes start at 215 to 220 mine ran great at 220 and use the lpr to do the chrono. with the hpr that high it is hitting the balls like a tippmann. i would take all shims out of the ninja tank as well. keep the lurker lube or get some monkey poo. if you have sleek or gr33se use that as well
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:41 PM #1779
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reg creep

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole69 View Post
Also make sure your tank is 400-600 and that the tank is stable we have found many tanks to float like that new and old.

Cole
I had an odd thing happen... I noticed (I have an air gauge built into
my ZR1) that my HPR pressure was very slowly creeping upward.
It didn't have an impact while shooting, but if I didn't shoot for a
little while, it would shoot the kind of hot that does not win friends.
So, instead of FSDO, I have FSHO (First Shot Hot Off).

I have six adjustable Ninja regs, and before I start draining all of
my tanks and swapping regs to see if that is where the problem
lies, I was hoping to get some input as to whether or not I was
on the right track.

Thanks in advance :~)
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:16 PM #1780
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could just be your HPR on your marker not sealing. I have had a few hyper2's creep up with bad reg seats and a myth tank reg that would hit 1200psi with a bad seat. I know new tanks will occasionally have an issue before the seat wears in, or an old tank with a bad dirty fill contaminating the reg seat.
Can't remember off the top of my head the layout of the zodiac HPR, but check the two piston o-rings first. From my post above I will be diggin into my hpr tonight as well..
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:15 AM #1781
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I took the ZR1 HPR apart PDQ... not much to it, it's amazingly simple.
Cleaned, inspected, a drop of Eclipse oil to the polyurethane o-ring,
and put it together. Swapped Ninja regs, pulled out all the discs,
put together, confirmed pressure output of 500psi. Installed on the
ZR1, and after a few tank o-rings and HPR adjustments, seem to
have found a spot where the reg was happy and the tank would be
able to screw all the way in. No reg creep anymore. Will take it
to the field and chrono at the next opportunity.

Thanks for the input, vector911 :~)
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:22 PM #1782
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So my bolt pin looks like a corkscrew... Tried to straighten it, is a mess. No way too get it back to tolerances. Yep was dumb, tried to screw out the screw in the front end like it showed in the manual. Perhaps this is no longer needed as the flat washer is now an oring.

Oh well, now to get a new one. I hear getting parts is tough. I left a voicemail a couple of days back for Ken Hefferle off the zodiac site, no answer yet. Any ideas where else to get a part?
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:31 PM #1783
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mine was purchased off here at pbnation used with this issue. Ken sold me new parts and answered all e-mails within a couple hours and phone calls never went to voice mail.
I'd bet he is off with the master blasters to LL7.
btw; ken instructed me that screw never needs removed. The "manifold" as he calls it can be safely disassembled using pliers or a vice holding closest possible to the front. The replacement he sent used a normal buna black o-ring. I'd send him the entire engine minimum as he found some scratches on the inside of my green bolt from the bent manifold that could cause leaks or poor performance.

overall I received amazing service from ken even though I was not an original owner. I'm talking shipping and receiving the new engine back in the same week with normal priority mail which is unheard of.
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:11 AM #1784
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This again makes me want one for the cs you get
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:55 AM #1785
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Sweet, I'll calm down and wait till Monday. I was just so fried when I did it. Major face palm.
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